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1G Extremely High Oil Pressure (Fresh Build)

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Ryan1gGst

Probationary Member
19
1
May 1, 2016
Kalamazoo, Michigan
As the title states. I know this topic has been beaten to death but I can not find any other fixes. I'm tired of my oil pan leaking. Motor built by a reputable shop here. Wiseco pistons (stock bore), Manley Hbeam rods, acl rod and main bearings, kiggly beehive valve springs and retainers, crane 264 cams. New acl oil pump. I have had my ffofh ported and it didnt help. Cold start seeing 130psi. Warm idle around 30-35. Giving any gas it shoots up to 100. At 55mph, full operating temp, around 90psi. Under any boost it will peg my gauge at 150 psi. Sensor is on the ofh. Tuned at 21lbs on a small 16g. Running a catch can with -10 fittings on the side of the cover. New oem pcv in working order. After the first two times the pan was leaking I bought a new oil pan. Cleaned all the surfaces and reinstalled with permatex (the right stuff). Failed, took it all apart, re did the gasket. 1/4 bead and going around the outside of bolt holes. Torqued to spec. Let it cure over night. Started up, idled for 20min, no leaks, drove it without building boost for 5min, parked it, and leaking from under timing side again. Took the cover off, pulleys back on a confirmed its seeping out of the pan and no where else.

Any other suggestions would be much appreciated. Tired of having a broken project.
Thanks
 
I'd bet someone pryde abit hard on the timing side oil pan flange and bent it slightly , oil pressure shouldn't make the pan not seal especially when using "the right stuff".

As for your oil pressure issue only thing that comes to mind is doing the oil galley mod (behind the front case) check out "jafromobile " on YouTube he has an indeft video explaining the oil port head mod and front case mod on the block.

How much did you port the ofh?

What oil are you running?

Did you clean up the old rtv off the pan and block? Razor blade does wonders.

Lastly is it 100% coming from the oil pan? Crank seals and cam seals brand new?
 
Did your shop block off the oil squirters, by chance? That will make oil pressure shoot sky high. Balance shafts deleted I am assuming?
 
What we're the oil clearances spec'd at? I'm also with Marty on the squirters and balance shafts.

The oil pan leaking is tough to say, might be a cracked front case, do you have pics of the area in question?
 
My oil squirters are deleted as well as balance shaft. Oil pressure is normally pegged on dash, but I have no leaks. Not sure if this helps at all. But kind of sounds like a sealing issue for the leaks.
 
I'd bet someone pryde abit hard on the timing side oil pan flange and bent it slightly , oil pressure shouldn't make the pan not seal especially when using "the right stuff".

As for your oil pressure issue only thing that comes to mind is doing the oil galley mod (behind the front case) check out "jafromobile " on YouTube he has an indeft video explaining the oil port head mod and front case mod on the block.

How much did you port the ofh?

What oil are you running?

Did you clean up the old rtv off the pan and block? Razor blade does wonders.

Lastly is it 100% coming from the oil pan? Crank seals and cam seals brand new?

Made sure not to pry on the pan. I will definitely look into the oil gallery! Running 10-30vr1. Used razor blade to clean off the old gasket and then scotch brite pad to finish it. And yeah all new seals. I had the timing cover and wheel removed, put the pulleys and balancer back in and let it idle. Just the pan.
Attached is the port job I had done.
 

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What we're the oil clearances spec'd at? I'm also with Marty on the squirters and balance shafts.

The oil pan leaking is tough to say, might be a cracked front case, do you have pics of the area in question?

I will have to ask the shop on clearances and oil squirters. Balance shafts were eliminated when I purchased the car before I built it. I have tomorrow off so I'll take it back apart and post pictures! Thank you!
 
Made sure not to pry on the pan. I will definitely look into the oil gallery! Running 10-30vr1. Used razor blade to clean off the old gasket and then scotch brite pad to finish it. And yeah all new seals. I had the timing cover and wheel removed, put the pulleys and balancer back in and let it idle. Just the pan.
Attached is the port job I had done.
Should check if the oil pressure relief valve slides smoothly. It could be stuck and causing the leak from oil pump/oil filter housing gasket.
 
Last edited:
Block casting flaws post pressure gauge will increase pressure.

If you have massive pressure I would be looking at the front case gasket having failed or is not perfect which can disguise itself as a pan leak on the timing side. There is a gallery pretty near the edge of the gasket and high pressure thin hot oil is flowing there.
You would see the oil cooler gasket much more clearly if it failed.

I assume you checked the front main seal.
 
Block casting flaws post pressure gauge will increase pressure.

If you have massive pressure I would be looking at the front case gasket having failed or is not perfect which can disguise itself as a pan leak on the timing side. There is a gallery pretty near the edge of the gasket and high pressure thin hot oil is flowing there.
You would see the oil cooler gasket much more clearly if it failed.

I assume you checked the front main seal.

Yeah front main is good. I will check the front main tomorrow and let you know!
 
Definitely something is off. I’m running a 90 block with no squirters/BS. I was well over 100psi cold idle and WOT but now I’m down to 60 cold @ 30°F and ~16 warm @900rpm according to my AEM digital gauge. Oil type was 20w-50 VR1.

I was able to cut my oil pressure down by doing the following:

1- Ported OFH
2- Shorter oil pressure relief spring
3- Ported the teardrop on the head oil feed, .120 at the low end tapering slightly deeper into thej stud hole
4- Undercut the ARP stud that went through the head oil feed hole (I have a 1g 7 bolt head so the holes needed to be enlarged anyway for the 6 bolt studs).

Also the oil pressure did lower a little after the engine was broken in. This process took me time but luckily I got it sorted out as I had horrible oil seepage at the beginning.

Here is a pic of my port job and new shorter spring. The 90 OFH was purchased new. I also have a kiggly HLA but I’m not sure if that plays too much of a role in all of this.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Definitely something is off. I’m running a 90 block with no squirters/BS. I was well over 100psi cold idle and WOT but now I’m down to 60 cold @ 30°F and ~16 warm @900rpm according to my AEM digital gauge. Oil type was 20w-50 VR1.

I was able to cut my oil pressure down by doing the following:

1- Ported OFH
2- Shorter oil pressure relief spring
3- Ported the teardrop on the head oil feed, .120 at the low end tapering slightly deeper into thej stud hole
4- Undercut the ARP stud that went through the head oil feed hole (I have a 1g 7 bolt head so the holes needed to be enlarged anyway for the 6 bolt studs).

Also the oil pressure did lower a little after the engine was broken in. This process took me time but luckily I got it sorted out as I had horrible oil seepage at the beginning.

Here is a pic of my port job and new shorter spring. The 90 OFH was purchased new. I also have a kiggly HLA but I’m not sure if that plays too much of a role in all of this.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is really going to help me out! Taking the timing side off right now to check the front case gaskets and the other things mentioned previously. Thank you so much!
 
I will have to ask the shop on clearances and oil squirters. Balance shafts were eliminated when I purchased the car before I built it. I have tomorrow off so I'll take it back apart and post pictures! Thank you!

Update. Took it all apart. Not sure on the pan, also it is fairly dry under the cover. Couple of bolts on the front cover seem to have some oil. And wet around tensioner arm.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

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Just something I notice, the crank gears centering pin has been pressed in flush. Make sure when reassembling, you get the pulley oriented right for timing purposes.
 
Looks like you picked up some socket head bolts for the oil pan which is cool........... but watch out for that one bolt coming up under the cranks timing gear, looks ok, but really close to the timing belt. Watch out for that . The OEM bolt for this location is shorter than the others, and can shred the belt if too long of a bolt goes in there..
 
Looks like you picked up some socket head bolts for the oil pan which is cool........... but watch out for that one bolt coming up under the cranks timing gear, looks ok, but really close to the timing belt. Watch out for that . The OEM bolt for this location is shorter than the others, and can shred the belt if too long of a bolt goes in there..


After I took the picture I cleaned it up. They are shorter, it was some of the rtv coming through.
 
Someone put it on in the wrong orientation and it pressed the roll pin in. Didn't have anything to do with the post but wanted you to be sure you put it back on correctly. :)
 
Check really close for a crack in the valve cover over by the timing belt, they crack there , especially when you get the car from a previous owner with no finesse, who tried pulling it off with a bolt still threaded in.

The crack could be really hard to see without looking VERY close
 
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