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Head gasket replacement without tensioner tool

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Ces4rDSM

Proven Member
119
6
Feb 2, 2019
watsonville, California
If I remove crankshaft wheel that holds the belt from the crankshaft will it cause anything to jump out of timing ? I will mark everything, set to tdc, and zip tie belt to crankshaft wheels before dissembling crankshaft and the wheel. Im afraid doing so to remove head will cause timing problems im reserving 2 months from now when I do a whole timing component replacement.
 
I agree with the others, but I'd also recommend making your own tools. It requires only limited amount of tools and it would cost next to nothing. For the tensioner rod all you need is a long M8 stud so you can thread it through the engine mount and apply pressure on the tensioner arm.

For the tensioner pulley itself, you'll need to fab up a simple plate with two holes and have some sort of thin bolts or rods sticking through it so they go into the 2 little holes in the smiley face pulley.
 
Here's a great video.

I just did mine and currently waiting on injector seals to be complete. Just a heads up, you might find other items that need attention. In my case, all exhaust valves and 3 intake valves were toast. There are other gaskets and seals you might want to replace "while you're in there". Don't know how far you want to go with yours but just expect the unexpected.

I can loan you the timing belt tools, just pay for shipping and paypal fees and full cost. I will reimburse you when I get the tools back. You need standard tool set plus torque wrench and breaker bar.

Don't rush and be organized. Cleanliness when reinstalling everything is important also.

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Timing everything back up isn't that difficult. Just make sure your oil pump sprocket is in the correct position since it can be out of phase even when mark is lined up.

When you remove the belt, shove a piece of cardboard between the sprocket and timing mark so it doesn't move. When you're ready to put the timing belt back on, start from the cam gears and go clockwise. Eg cam gears then idler pulley, then oil pump pulley, crankshaft sprocket, tensioner pulley. FYI Crankshaft wheel = Crankshaft sprocket or Crankshaft pulley

This came in super handy as my valve cover gasket and exhaust manifold threads were stripped.

8MILELAKE 131pcs Stripped Thread Rethread Helicoil Repair Kit Metric M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0126UTM7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MQ8HCbQ0M7YJ9
 
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Yikes as i removed exhaust manifold bolts and studs one stud was broken resulting in part of stud inside one of the holes positioned in the head, tried drilling small hole through to try to make bigger hole eventually peeling left over bolt off but theyre arp studs im guessing, very tough studs. Help please.

I ordered tools just in case anything happens, I was told I can do the job by having it set to tdc, zip tying crankshaft wheels to belt de attaching crabkshaft and the wheel zip tied to belt, and place something so oil wheel and crankshaft wheel dont go out of place from timing marks does this work?

Pardon me by crank shafts and crankshaft wheels I mean the cam shafts and cam shaft wheel.
 
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I ordered tools just in case anything happens, I was told I can do the job by having it set to tdc, zip tying crankshaft wheels to belt de attaching crabkshaft and the wheel zip tied to belt, and place something so oil wheel and crankshaft wheel dont go out of place from timing marks does this work?
Crank pulley won’t unless you move it. Oil pump pulley is much easier to accidentally turn so that’s the one you’ll want to secure
 
Im doing hg replacement as as other gaskets, cant replace timing belt with a kit since I ordered one but it was for wrong model engine, I cant afford the kit at moment I will in less than 2 months from now.
 
Yeah. You’ll have to drill that out. Start with the smallest bit and make sure you’re straight. Use penetrant and torch if you have one.

Heat and penetrant isn’t necessary to drill out but if you get lucky, there’s a chance the broken bolt will free up when you’re drilling.

Drilling it out might be easier with the head off. Just gives you more room when it’s out of the bay.
 
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Just a heads up, you might find other items that need attention. In my case, all exhaust valves and 3 intake valves were toast. There are other gaskets and seals you might want to replace "while you're in there". Don't know how far you want to go with yours but just expect the unexpected.

Don't rush and be organized. Cleanliness when reinstalling everything is important also.
I second this, I just replaced my HG in the summer. Replacing all other gaskets will cost you around $50-ish, it is worth your investment. My hydraulic tensioner and spark plugs decided to go too, just be prepared for anything. My car was really well maintained before me, but we still drive 20+ year old cars, things are bound to happen.

Also your exhaust manifold bolts are going to snap, if they don't you're lucky, again I would just replace these while you have the chance save yourself from future headaches. I know money is tight right now, maybe find a set of OEM replacements.

"I ordered tools just in case anything happens, I was told I can do the job by having it set to tdc, zip tying crankshaft wheels to belt de attaching crabkshaft and the wheel zip tied to belt, and place something so oil wheel and crankshaft wheel dont go out of place from timing marks does this work?" (quotes stopped working)

Also it sounds like you are trying to cheat around having to do timing? IDK maybe you could clarify this, but you have to undo timing to take the head off so you would then have to redo timing when you put the head back on.
 
Yes, I intend replacing all gaskets and seals, I got the gasket kit when purchasing hg. As for timing belt I will have to remove it all and inspect for faults, and drilling through the manifold studs is nearly impossible U tried drilling for an hour and got no where it seems I have a small dent made on the stud. Open to other suggestions. Thank you to everyone very much appreciated.
 
Since you are taking the head off anyway just take it to the machine shop and have them fix it. Forget about the timing belt shortcuts. You have the head off just do the job. You are overthinking what it takes to do the belt job.
 
I've never used a bolt extractor before and honestly don't know if they make one small enough for that stud. But that's something you can look into. If you plan on drilling it out yourself, make sure you don't go too deep or else you'll need to replace the head. Stick the bit into another hole and use tape to mark the depth so you know where to stop drilling.
 
Agree with @Mello, left handed drill bit. If it happens to "grab", it will back the stud right out.
 
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