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1G Auto guys, front clutches question.

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
11,527
8,194
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Hey this is for any Auto Trans member.
I have my motor out, big upgrade. Trans is still in the car and was working great as a stock trans with a ShiftBox 100.1
Is it possible to replace the front clutch pack with the trans still sitting in the car?
Thats its current state and it really needs a Kiggly 6 pak upgrade before I couple her back together.
Thoughts???
Opinions??
Options?
Thanks all! :thumb:
Marty
 
Hey this is for any Auto Trans member.
I have my motor out, big upgrade. Trans is still in the car and was working great as a stock trans with a ShiftBox 100.1
Is it possible to replace the front clutch pack with the trans still sitting in the car?
Thats its current state and it really needs a Kiggly 6 pak upgrade before I couple her back together.
Thoughts???
Opinions??
Options?
Thanks all! :thumb:
Marty
is this going to be more of a track car with a good amount of hp?

edit: i totally read that wrong LOL. should be able to with the engine out of the car. might be kinda cramped but doable
 
Last edited:
If the motor is out you definitely can do the front clutch. The pump is exposed when you pull the converter out (which you slide right out with the engine removed), pull the pump and slide basket assembly out.

If you drive the car on the road much, I would be careful with the 6 disk. I have that installed in my car and pulled the basket after a few hundred miles and found the metal plates (thinner in 6 pack rather than 5) had some heat coloring from the continuous road driving. I have two trans coolers so my temps are never above 190.
 
If the motor is out you definitely can do the front clutch. The pump is exposed when you pull the converter out (which you slide right out with the engine removed), pull the pump and slide basket assembly out.

If you drive the car on the road much, I would be careful with the 6 disk. I have that installed in my car and pulled the basket after a few hundred miles and found the metal plates (thinner in 6 pack rather than 5) had some heat coloring from the continuous road driving. I have two trans coolers so my temps are never above 190.
thats what i was thinking on the 6 pack setups. they werent as street friendly as the 5 pack is.
 
thats what i was thinking on the 6 pack setups. they werent as street friendly as the 5 pack is.

Does hold the power like a champ though! Never had a problem with the 5 holding power either, just go billet basket and call it a day (my next trans upgraded)
 
Does hold the power like a champ though! Never had a problem with the 5 holding power either, just go billet basket and call it a day (my next trans upgraded)
ive got the 5 pack in my trans now and theyve done me well so far. i think i should be fine with the setup i have in the trans now on the motor/ turbo combo i currently have. not sure on the motor im putting together LOL
 
I made the mistake of using my 6 disk kiggly kit on the street and when I took the trans out related to my convertor issue I couldnt believe how much wear they had. They do not stand up well to street/strip type of driving. Id stick with the kiggly 5......I however bit the bullet and im running the Billet kiggly unit. Best decision ive ever made....other than switching to auto. The w4a33 is so easy to work on.
 
You guys are the guys that I hoped would chime in. Thanks. I will street drive it so it sounds like rhe 5 clutch set is best for me. It is going to see some hp and now my concern is the splines on the output shaft which are wore.
I sure appreciate the opinions and advice! If you have any other comments, please, by all means put it on here.
Marty
 
You guys are the guys that I hoped would chime in. Thanks. I will street drive it so it sounds like rhe 5 clutch set is best for me. It is going to see some hp and now my concern is the splines on the output shaft which are wore.
I sure appreciate the opinions and advice! If you have any other comments, please, by all means put it on here.
Marty
How much wear are we talking about?
 
Enough to notice by the eye. Haven't measured it yet. And the car was a bone stock car but has 180k on it.
 
You HOARDER....
I have NO ROOM TO TALK ROFL.
I took a picture while I stabbed a car in the shop preparing for an ice storm.
Here it is. Its wore good.
And thanks for the offer. I have a spare bought but dont know how to ship it to me.
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You HOARDER....
I have NO ROOM TO TALK ROFL.

We all are if we're honest about it haha. But @amsrn13 truly has a ton of autos, I joked with him that he's the reason I can't find an auto anywhere close to me ROFL
 
We all are if we're honest about it haha. But @amsrn13 truly has a ton of autos, I joked with him that he's the reason I can't find an auto anywhere close to me ROFL

We are all guilty of it! I have three spare tcases, two spare transmissions, one spare rear diff and a partridge in a pear tree haha

That output shaft looks similar to the one on a spare trans of mine so I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that it is worn. Measure the shaft from the tip of the spline to the tip of the spline and compare it to the input on the tcase, I've never done those measurements or else I would give you numbers.
 
Will do! Open to any and all suggestions (and donations) ROFL
Thanks!!!
 
We all are if we're honest about it haha. But @amsrn13 truly has a ton of autos, I joked with him that he's the reason I can't find an auto anywhere close to me ROFL
Im grabbing two more w4a33s tmrw and another j1h......Ive started collecting 3 bolts auto diffs so I can cannibalize the ring gears to convert manual 4 bolts.
 
Stick to the 5 frictions if street/track or Kiggly billet. The disks are very thin on the 6 and won’t last as long with extended street miles.

My Kiggly 5 frictions lasted for 3-4 seasons on street/track car running 6466. It held up fine when I upgraded to 6870. However when I did trans refresh, I noticed it has worn down pretty good so I decided to go with the Kiggly billet.
 
From all the help I have got, I am going the 5 friction route. I will be on a HX40 and street driving. Hoping that the kit can be installed without issue while the trans is sitting in the bay, waiting on the motor to come back and join her.
Anyone that has done this, what gaskets/seal am I going to need on hand so I minimize it being cracked open longer than needed?
Thanks again to each and every one of you!
Marty
 
From all the help I have got, I am going the 5 friction route. I will be on a HX40 and street driving. Hoping that the kit can be installed without issue while the trans is sitting in the bay, waiting on the motor to come back and join her.
Anyone that has done this, what gaskets/seal am I going to need on hand so I minimize it being cracked open longer than needed?
Thanks again to each and every one of you!
Marty
marty i believe all you "should" need would be a pump gasket to be safe.
 
Cool. That's what I was seeing in the FSM but I trust the guys that have autos or have done it themselves, so thank you! I want to just "stock" the stuff I need so no waiting on parts or a dang gasket! :thumb:
 
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