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Aftermarket ball joints that change the roll center?

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You don't want to either, the price tag will make you sick because they're Evo Ohlin's.

Suppose that means they are more spendy than the Muellerized Olins I plan to get over winter...
 
They are the same shocks except that the springs are different and they include the mounting brackets which I had to buy separately from SCE. Mine are Ohlins Road & Track's. I'm planning to tune them myself and maybe get some local help in Minnesota.
 
Man I wish someone else bought the Mueller Ohlins before me...I spent ALOT more than what's advertised on their website. Sometimes being 1st ISN'T better. Thanks for the write up Getto! Been looking for a bump steer solution. Is anyone else concerned about the length of the spacer on the tie rod side? For us road racers with big tires I'm starting to really question the safety of some of our stock components. With the forces generated laterally I'm wondering if that steering knuckle arm is beefy enough to handle the load.
 
so have anyone made any more of this ? found som interesting stuff on the web

3kgt knuckle on galant vr4
http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=1021073&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=6&vc=1

and evo x knuckle on 3kgt
https://www.google.com/search?clien...9j0i10i19j0i22i30i19j33i160j33i21.r-G0NWkaJJQ

balljoint change kit .
http://chromedecu.org/?product=evox-brake-kit-for-a-3000gt

if i am not completly lost this should make it possible to mount the evo x knuckle and brakes on a 1g (or any evo x big brake kit)also getting better bearings and a little bit rollcenter adjustment (evox knuckle looks best to me) .

/A
 
so have anyone made any more of this ? found some interesting stuff on the web

3kgt knuckle on galant vr4
http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=1021073&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=6&vc=1

and evo x knuckle on 3kgt
https://www.google.com/search?clien...9j0i10i19j0i22i30i19j33i160j33i21.r-G0NWkaJJQ

balljoint change kit .
http://chromedecu.org/?product=evox-brake-kit-for-a-3000gt

if i am not completely lost this should make it possible to mount the evo x knuckle and brakes on a 1g (or any evo x big brake kit)also getting better bearings and a little bit rollcenter adjustment (evox knuckle looks best to me) .

/A

I was going to do the evo X knuckles on my 1g TSI a couple years ago, I abandoned the project when I stripped out third gear in the trans and decided to partout my 1g out and focus on my vr4.
(I still have the evo x knuckles/dust shields if your interested in them).

The biggest issue you're going to run into is sourcing out the correct axle length and spline count. i'm pretty sure i was able to find some axles that were worth trying. i'll try to find that information when i clean out my office tomorrow, If i find it, I'll post it.
 
I was going to do the evo X knuckles on my 1g TSI a couple years ago, I abandoned the project when I stripped out third gear in the trans and decided to partout my 1g out and focus on my vr4.
(I still have the evo x knuckles/dust shields if your interested in them).

The biggest issue you're going to run into is sourcing out the correct axle length and spline count. i'm pretty sure i was able to find some axles that were worth trying. i'll try to find that information when i clean out my office tomorrow, If i find it, I'll post it.
I was going to do the evo X knuckles on my 1g TSI a couple years ago, I abandoned the project when I stripped out third gear in the trans and decided to partout my 1g out and focus on my vr4.
(I still have the evo x knuckles/dust shields if your interested in them).

The biggest issue you're going to run into is sourcing out the correct axle length and spline count. i'm pretty sure i was able to find some axles that were worth trying. i'll try to find that information when i clean out my office tomorrow, If i find it, I'll post it.

To be completly honest i havent thought so mutch abaout the axle problem yet, but you are completly right. i figured the best way would be to use as mutch evo as possible and to have a company like driveshaftshop make a set of axles, but if there is something that fits boot on that would be even better!
please post again if you find anything.

also might be interested in the knuckles depending on price and if you would ship then sence i am located in sweden...you can pm me about this .

best regards

A
 
Update! Posting these pics for a friend @pagosa dsm on his take on addressing 1g dsm roll center discussed in this thread using sleeved, extended ball joints at the front control arm, as others are doing. He made additional reinforcement insert pieces that will soon be welded under the under the control arm and extended ball joint sleeve for additional rigidity and safety.

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Here's an example of the K772 screw in ball-joints on my 1990 GSR-4 (JDM Eclipse GSX). The rubber boots are just stacked like a sandwich to keep the ball joint relatively sealed. The top boot is original and the bottom one is QA1.

I also found an EASY fix for bump steer. It turns out that a bump steer kit for a 2005-2010 Ford Mustang bolts right on and has the right taper. I only had to cut 1" off of the threads on the the inner tie rod (outer side). This setup will work well. I used parts from QA1.

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And yes, those are Evo8 Ohlin coilovers on the car with SCE's adapter kit for 3000GT VR-4. It works perfectly too.

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Also posting this for a friend @pagosa dsm who fabbed up these bump steer correction pieces (circled), which will work pretty much the same as the QA1 mustang bump steer kit that getto822000 used.

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Update! Posting these pics for a friend @pagosa dsm on his take on addressing 1g dsm roll center discussed in this thread using sleeved, extended ball joints at the front control arm, as others are doing. He made additional reinforcement insert pieces that will soon be welded under the under the control arm and extended ball joint sleeve for additional rigidity and safety.

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Can you find out and post the ball joint parts he used? Im willing to do fab work on my control arms to implement these as mine were already cut up for camber and castor ( track only car ). I have pretty bad bump steer and its the last bit to do for my handling improvements.
 
Can you find out and post the ball joint parts he used? Im willing to do fab work on my control arms to implement these as mine were already cut up for camber and castor ( track only car ). I have pretty bad bump steer and its the last bit to do for my handling improvements.
check out speedway motors for upper Chrysler threaded ball joints
 
Here are some more current pics of the extended balljoint mod that @pagosa dsm is doing. The extended balljoint sleeve and the reinforcement insert piece has been nicely welded in and looking good!

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More pics of the almost completed control arm from @pagosa dsm just needs a little paint.
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To finish off the control arm properly, he fabbed up a solid metal bushing to replace the oem big "marshmallow" bushing.

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Got a quote from ground control. $1799 for a adjustable coilover set, you pick the spring rates and they valve the shocks to match. Its about $300 for a camber\caster plate upgrade on top ( well worth it for a track car ). This is cheaper than the hot bits coil over setup I bought.

I found a center of gravity calculator and I have a set of scales. I will be figuring out MY cars COG so I can build control arms. We will be using the ball joint ( and mount ) option as shown about but we will be raising ( or lowering ) where we mount that to a control arm once we have the optimum height of that figured out, then we will fix bump steer.

My car in action, will do a better job editing next time. 9 hour endurance race.
Here is the 3 minute video.
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Got a quote from ground control. $1799 for a adjustable coilover set, you pick the spring rates and they valve the shocks to match. Its about $300 for a camber\caster plate upgrade on top ( well worth it for a track car ). This is cheaper than the hot bits coil over setup I bought.

I found a center of gravity calculator and I have a set of scales. I will be figuring out MY cars COG so I can build control arms. We will be using the ball joint ( and mount ) option as shown about but we will be raising ( or lowering ) where we mount that to a control arm once we have the optimum height of that figured out, then we will fix bump steer.

My car in action, will do a better job editing next time. 9 hour endurance race.
Here is the 3 minute video.
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Why do you need to know your COG to build your control arms? Your ride height is all you need.
 
I've seen a couple tubular k-members for the 1g. Do those not adjust the LCA attachment points to favor a lower ride height?
 
I've seen a couple tubular k-members for the 1g. Do those not adjust the LCA attachment points to favor a lower ride height?
I don't know if they do, but that would actually be a very good idea. However you'd only want to move the front point up, as that would decrease the amount of anti-lift in addition to restoring the roll center.
 
Why do you need to know your COG to build your control arms? Your ride height is all you need.

Agreed. Just need ride height or a basic understanding of roll center height. COG is going to be about crank centerline.

I've seen a couple tubular k-members for the 1g. Do those not adjust the LCA attachment points to favor a lower ride height?

Hopefully not. That's a good way to induce bumpsteer.

I don't know if they do, but that would actually be a very good idea. However you'd only want to move the front point up, as that would decrease the amount of anti-lift in addition to restoring the roll center.

Don't do this for a couple reasons. The first being that it won't actually do anything to adjust roll center. The second being that increasing anti-lift/anti-dive (which is what you would be doing, not decreasing) is not necessary as that should be controlled by the spring. 1G's don't need more anti-lift, they need more anti-squat, which is rear suspension related. Weight transfer to the front under braking is good for AWD cars as it helps rotation and the front brakes do the work.
 
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Is this aluminum on steel or steel on steel? Either way that's not going to work. That joint needs to rotate and under track usage it will definitely wear the shit out of whichever is the weaker metal, making the hole oblong and lead to all sorts of issues. You need a spherical bearing in there.
 
Hopefully not. That's a good way to induce bumpsteer.

And so is adding lowering/performance springs. You guys are already lowering the pivot point for the ball joint and the tie rod end because of your lowered suspension, it seems only natural that one would prefer to raise the inner control arm attachment points and then lower the tie rod end on the upright to avoid bump steer. This would be a better option. It retains the stock ball joints, doesn't require modification to the lca's, doesn't apply a large bending load through your now taller ball joint, and can improve the caster at the same time. Also avoids an wheel clearance issues there as well.
 
Is this aluminum on steel or steel on steel? Either way that's not going to work. That joint needs to rotate and under track usage it will definitely wear the sh** out of whichever is the weaker metal, making the hole oblong and lead to all sorts of issues. You need a spherical bearing in there.

RWD4G63 makes a good point. Without a bearing in there, you're going to see some excessive wear. The only way to prolong it's life is if he cut some grooves inside the bushing to retain some grease, and you are regularly re-greasing it.

Additionally, if that busing is aluminum, you'll get some nasty galvanic corrosion, and in time the control arm can break where it meets the bushing and that is super dangerous.
 
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