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2G Car running extremely rich to the point it cant idle

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@HolsetGST
At least you have to tell us if the car was running fine or not before you purchased it, or provide us more infos. According what you mentioned, sounds like the car is a project car never run fine before.
So far, you had had the resistor pack with the high-Z injectors and a bad wiring on maf, the issue wasn't only one. If the car has never run before, there would be many possibilities. Such as a bad ecu, wirings/connectors, injectors, sensors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump/filter etc etc..
If it is a project car and hard to find issues, then I recommend to put back stock parts as much as you can (if you have them) to make the car running at first. then put back the performance parts one by one.
 
@HolsetGST
At least you have to tell us if the car was running fine or not before you purchased it, or provide us more infos. According what you mentioned, sounds like the car is a project car never run fine before.
So far, you had had the resistor pack with the high-Z injectors and a bad wiring on maf, the issue wasn't only one. If the car has never run before, there would be many possibilities. Such as a bad ecu, wirings/connectors, injectors, sensors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump/filter etc etc..
If it is a project car and hard to find issues, then I recommend to put back stock parts as much as you can (if you have them) to make the car running at first. then put back the performance parts one by one.
Car was a indeed a project car that previous owner couldn't finish,I've checked everything electrical wise, everything is fine and reading proper voltage the injectors have been tested to work properly with noid light, I do not have any of the stock parts sadly, I'm really starting to think it may be a sensor causing the issue.
 
It sounds like you found the problems with the car so it probably just needs to be tuned correctly. Bad maf and no resistor-delete right?
 
Yes, the maf was bad and on top it wasn't grounded at the harness, what sensor could possibly cause a lean condition on idle and shut off the car after about 20 seconds?
 
Don't forget that it was too rich with the SD. What happened when your tuner changed the fuel map or/and the battery voltage offset for injectors without the resistor pack? Did the engine or the A/F ratio react (the injectors controllable)?
If you believe some sensor is bad then take a log and check CEL, you can probably find malfunction sensors if there is.
 
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If you're in open loop and it goes lean it's probably going to be MAF related since the O2 sensor is ignored and fuel map & maf are it.

If you're in closed loop it could be the O2 sensor could be bad leading it to continue to lean to get the o2 to cycle.

If the battery offset is out of whack it will have a big effect on idle fueling, fuel in general really but definitely idle.

You need to be logging and get some basic real data to work from.

You need to be positive of your injectors.
 
Have you pulled the injectors to even confirm what they are yet? If not, I'm blocking you.
dont see the relevancy in this, however I did pull them out and they are indeed ID 1000cc's, after a couple days ironing things out the maf connector was not good so had that replaced and that took car of the car leaning out at idle issue, seems from the get go they were multiple issues with the car electronically. With all this said the car idles perfectly fine and i can even rev it out but it stalls after about 3 to 5 seconds, after some searching here on the forums I've narrowed this down to be a common issue with the Cam Angle Sensor (CAS), however isnt this a term for pre 97 DSMs?
 
dont see the relevancy in this, however I did pull them out and they are indeed ID 1000cc's, after a couple days ironing things out the maf connector was not good so had that replaced and that took car of the car leaning out at idle issue, seems from the get go they were multiple issues with the car electronically. With all this said the car idles perfectly fine and i can even rev it out but it stalls after about 3 to 5 seconds, after some searching here on the forums I've narrowed this down to be a common issue with the Cam Angle Sensor (CAS), however isnt this a term for pre 97 DSMs?

All DSMs have Cam Angle Sensors. Their position, operation, and wiring vary with the motor year. Given how many of these cars have had their motors/heads swapped and wiring messed with, it would probably be easiest if you post a picture of the engine bay, specifically of the head as the two possible locations would both be on the intake cam. Either driver or passenger side. Passenger side is external to the head itself and is easily visible next to the TPS. If it is on the driver side it would be under (behind, closer to the head) the intake cam gear.
 
I was told this might be it? This sensor connected to this triangular part?
 

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Car was a indeed a project car that previous owner couldn't finish,I've checked everything electrical wise, everything is fine and reading proper voltage the injectors have been tested to work properly with noid light, I do not have any of the stock parts sadly, I'm really starting to think it may be a sensor causing the issue.

I had similar issues before when my OMNI 4 bar took a crap on me. I actually had 2 of them go bad on me. Both sensors were less than a month old. Omni warranteed one of them, and ECMlink waranteed the other. Omni stated they had "made recent changes to the sensor" and it appears there were some known issues with them in the past. Not saying it is your problem, but it could be. The best way to know for sure is to just put the car on a MAF sensor, make sure it is on a MAF tune, and check all the wiring.
 
Would be worth looking up the PCV thread on here. And taking that filter off the valve cover.

Why are we pulling teeth to get a full shot of the engine bay? Playing where's waldo is only fun for awhile.
 
jakk220 I have 3 OMNI 4 bar sensors and they all produce the same results, nothing different, here is the full pic of the engine bay, sorry i took so long I work on an oil rig so im away from home for days to even weeks on end so i have to wait until someone can actually be home to take the pic, here it is full engine bay pic. Before i left I did a boost leak test on the car and heard a loud hissing behind intake manifold area, now Im sure this is a boost leak but i just dont know if a boost leak in that area would cause the afr to be cycling between 20 to 22.4 on the idle then dying...I refuse to give up on this car, my last project was a bmw 335i with issues and i hate to say that was alot easier to diagnose and repair than this 97 DSM but I'm hellbent on getting this car to run im very much in love with it so please guys if you've had any similar issues please chime in and i'll do whatever is necessary
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1. You're going to get it fixed and it's going to be worth it. Keep at it.
2. Always start by fixing any and all air leaks. This should always be your first place to start.
3. Your wideband may be reading improperly. Make sure it's installed correctly and also RE-CALIBRATE IT if it's a model that requires it. I know my innovate requires recalibration.
4. Figure out a setup to recirculate your BOV to your intake pipe. Do these 3 things and report back.
 
Do you have a MAF or SD tune currently flashed? You have to run one way or the other so the tune will be specific to each.
If you have a MAF tune the Omni 4 bar won't affect engine tuning and will simply function for logging manifold pressure.
 
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