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What did you do to your DSM today?

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Drove it today after giving it a basic tune while I learn ceddymods and ECUFlash. So far it’s been super easy.

But as of today what did I do? Let the wife experience her first stutterbox 5500rpm awd launch. She loved it. :D :cool:

Love this car. Also flashable ecu tuning isn’t bad at all. Tunerpro was worse.

After I get through this snow storm and other stuff I’ll go for a more in depth tune with timing and such. But so far so good. :)
 
Drove it today after giving it a basic tune while I learn ceddymods and ECUFlash. So far it’s been super easy.

But as of today what did I do? Let the wife experience her first stutterbox 5500rpm awd launch. She loved it. :D :cool:

Love this car. Also flashable ecu tuning isn’t bad at all. Tunerpro was worse.

After I get through this snow storm and other stuff I’ll go for a more in depth tune with timing and such. But so far so good. :)


Any tips for a basic tune? I am just starting to learn ceddymods/ecuflash. I’ve watched some videos and read the ceddy thread here. I feel comfortable controlling CELs and sizing injectors but I’m lost on how I actually add power and when/where to adjust fuel.
 
Any tips for a basic tune? I am just starting to learn ceddymods/ecuflash. I’ve watched some videos and read the ceddy thread here. I feel comfortable controlling CELs and sizing injectors but I’m lost on how I actually add power and when/where to adjust fuel.



Honestly, research is your friend, as is trial and error because every engine is a little bit different. I tend to aim on the richer side of things because I’ve had the best luck with it.

The first step is 1) read everything you can on tuning a Turbo dsm. Ask the pros, do heavy research and really understand the concept of air fuel mixture and stoich. 2) wideband 3) figuring out the nightmare that is evoscan and it’s logs. Once you can read them like a pro, start figuring out your load ranges, and dialing in your fuel trims. I’ve personally always subscribed to the school of thought that says ignore fuel trims and dial in the afrs, but that’s just me and someone is gonna disagree. Lol.

But without going on a huge tangent or a super long dissertation, figure out where on the tables are when, and edit those cells. I tend to change entire lines just so I know it’s good. I.e. everywhere on the 5000 rpm line is 10.9 AFR. I’m not gonna be cruising at 5-5.5k rpm with no boost, and this 14B is gonna be well into full boost by that time, so it’s safe. Lol. Lower RPMs take more finesse because you can’t be just set all of 2500-3000rpm to 10.9 or you’ll be rich as shit cruising on the interstate.


But long story short, aim for mid 10 afrs under full boost. During spool up(1-7psi) aim for a steady drop from 12 ish afrs to 11 with it dropping steadily to your target AFR past that. Once you do that and get the hang of it, slowly lean it out to where you feel comfortable with afrs. Mine is 10.9-11.2 under full boost because I’ve always had better luck with slightly rich, and a decent amount of timing. But feel it out. if you’re relatively stock or running a 14b-16G, it’s pretty safe to just experiment and see what works and what doesn’t. If you’re anywhere bigger than that, stop immediately and have someone show you the ropes in person who knows what they’re doing. I wouldn’t try to learn how to tune on a 50+ trim turbo. Lol.

But don’t overlook your cruise and light throttle afrs either.

Hope this helps. Others can and will call me out to give you better advice if this post sucks.
 
Tuned it a little more. Started by switching it over to the evo 8 timing map and adjusting a little in areas I thought could use more. Car runs great now. For a heavy 2G with a 14B and stock engine/basic upgrades this thing moves pretty well. :D.

Might throw a couple gallons of e85 in it and throw more timing at it and see if I can get away with it but so far I think I’m gonna leave it alone. Once I’m caught up on bills I’ll probably swap turbos(16G or bolt on hx35), e85 convert it, more fuel, cams, and call it done. :D.

But God I enjoy tuning.
 
Got my car back after a head rebuild but mechanic said the wastegate actuator was frozen :ohdamn:. Yanked the intake pipe off and pulled out the piece in question. Worked fine...:idontknow: checked the flapper arm too and it was workin fine. Did some pulls and its holding boost fine :)
 
Sounds like you are as good or better than your MECHANIC......lots of people claim that title but few live up to the name. I don't trust ANYONE with my DSM.
Glad YOU were able to fix it!!!! :)
 
Macguyvered an LED bulb I originally used to read check engine codes to plug my pcv line that broken the new plastic check valve the other night so I could baby it home. So much for 60psi and 200* temp capability. Glad it wasn't the brake booster one tho!

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Found some 3/8"/10mm aluminum ones with a 1.5 psi crack, 65+ max psi, -30 to 300*C. We'll see how they work once I get them, it's not as low of a crack pressure as I'd like though...

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Bahahaha
Yeah me too. :tease:
You have to make do sometimes. Learned that on the farm 50 yrs ago LOL!
 
My car ate a plug so I did this.....
Got a wedge hole in a valve. Fresh head in inventory :)
Gonna do a complete overhaul on it. Stay tuned for the 6/4 Auto car....... :cool:

Edit...I use check valves in my booster line also. Blew a booster once, they don't like 40#'s.....
 

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My car ate a plug so I did this.....

You sure you don't have an alternate identity and have been posting threads titled "not good" ? Haha.
Bummer tho, and yes boosters are not fond of boost, I did that on my Altima, lesson learned haha.
Just glad I didn't lose that check valve cuz this car has NO brakes without assist.
 
On a positively awesome note, I’ll also add a check valve to my brake booster line, recently added one to my pcv line, but never it would effect the brake booster, good to know:thumb:
 
On a positively awesome note, I’ll also add a check valve to my brake booster line, recently added one to my pcv line, but never it would effect the brake booster, good to know:thumb:

There is a factory check valve. If the booster saw actual manifold pressure and vacuum, it would likely blow the diaphragm. The check valve makes it only see vacuum. If it didn't blow, there's be times you may not be able to push the brake pedal at all since boost pressure would be working against you, like SUPER manual brakes, i.e.: leg day.
I ditched the factory line and needed a something to replace and work with -6 line, and the plastic ones I ordered based on specs don't hold up apparently.
 
Now that you mention that I remember now because I replaced my brake booster line with a junk yard score because my original had a gash in it. I was gonna go to the auto parts store but read it had a factory installed check valve, which is why I was so happy to find a 90 non turbo in the the junk yard, the brake booster line was the exact same, I just thought it was crazy you still had an issue with the factory line, hopefully mine will hold up:pray:
 
No issue with the factory line for me really, but when installing my map sensors, I needed more vacuum ports and the only practical, quick way to do it was make a new booster line with an inline tap.

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Hard to see in the pic, and it's not current, but my map sensors are next to the resistor box, and the lines run to an inline tap on the brake booster line on the back of the manifold, then a check valve between the inline tap and booster itself.
 
Started removing interior trim and seats. Then I can get the old carpet out.

Are there any carpet kits for sale out there?
 
Anytime!! :thumb:
 
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