The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Rix Racing

1G W4a33 oil pump inspection...

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
So after tearing the trans down and not finding a damn thing I pulled the pump apart hoping to find something.....??? I dont see shit. Seems like it has to be the converter causing the whine in drive/ reverse.
 

Attachments

  • 49D2D490-69EE-4FE0-8D43-F2FDB970056A.jpeg
    49D2D490-69EE-4FE0-8D43-F2FDB970056A.jpeg
    363.1 KB · Views: 234
  • DA1A04A8-73BD-46F4-B87B-2B0BC6F31C23.jpeg
    DA1A04A8-73BD-46F4-B87B-2B0BC6F31C23.jpeg
    453.3 KB · Views: 286
  • AC3FBE5B-3AAC-4730-9CEE-B79ECD63AF73.jpeg
    AC3FBE5B-3AAC-4730-9CEE-B79ECD63AF73.jpeg
    347.6 KB · Views: 248
  • BA35420C-088C-4107-A0FE-A71B38AF94CB.jpeg
    BA35420C-088C-4107-A0FE-A71B38AF94CB.jpeg
    251.8 KB · Views: 234
I told you in your other thread that I had the exact same thing happen to me and it was the converter. Converter will only whine in gear as that is when the input shaft is stopped and the converter housing is still spinning(attached to the engine). I would wait to hear from Sinister as that is likely the culprit.
 
I told you in your other thread that I had the exact same thing happen to me and it was the converter. Converter will only whine in gear as that is when the input shaft is stopped and the converter housing is still spinning(attached to the engine). I would wait to hear from Sinister as that is likely the culprit.
I know, im just checking everything. Im installing a kiggly billet clutch pack and jeff bush transfer gears. It should be bulletproof after this.
 
How the hell do you break something go quick! Jesus i havent even been racing. It happened the minute the boost went up. My cars only making around 600 currently?

Manufacturing defects would be my guess. I highly doubt it was a power issue I'd say you probably just got a lame one. Just a bad luck draw.
 
How the hell do you break something go quick! Jesus i havent even been racing. It happened the minute the boost went up. My cars only making around 600 currently?

The spragg is the weak link in the converter when you start making some good power. Another option is to go spraggless. I switched to a PI spraggless converter and its working great so far. People have said that running the spraggless will create more heat as the spragg helps push fluid through the converter. I have not had any issues with heat but I also have two transmission coolers and the larger has a fan attached to a switch. My goal is 9's and after talking with Kiggly at the shootout, he convinced me to go with the PI spraggless for my setup.

It does seem like it was defective from the beginning if this happened when you first got in to boost.
 
The spragg is the weak link in the converter when you start making some good power. Another option is to go spraggless. I switched to a PI spraggless converter and its working great so far. People have said that running the spraggless will create more heat as the spragg helps push fluid through the converter. I have not had any issues with heat but I also have two transmission coolers and the larger has a fan attached to a switch. My goal is 9's and after talking with Kiggly at the shootout, he convinced me to go with the PI spraggless for my setup.

It does seem like it was defective from the beginning if this happened when you first got in to boost.
Well honestly I have been ripping it around for several weeks but all 1-3 pulls..... never launching. I think the first time
I brake boosted it it broke.
 
My spragg went out while just cruising so I believe it can just go out at any point whether you're brake boosting or mid pull.
 
My spragg went out while just cruising so I believe it can just go out at any point whether you're brake boosting or mid pull.
I was thinking about selling it and going to a precision jeff bush unit
 

Attachments

  • 4BC5CFC9-B077-4F18-9184-9B87F0547260.jpeg
    4BC5CFC9-B077-4F18-9184-9B87F0547260.jpeg
    360.7 KB · Views: 132
PI is what Kiggly stands behind and he pushes that auto to the limit every pass. He says he has been running the same converter for three years with no problems so that was good enough for me. The Sinister is a good converter, I feel it is more for cars under 500hp but thats personal opinion without any statistic backing, just personal reading and use.
 
Nah. Referring to where the ball bearings are. My pump wore that down until the ball bearings looked like pac-men. Also scratched the area around it pretty good. I see some wear marks around there but again, nothing major.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top