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Drag Race Build KRATOS V2

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You aint lookin hard enough........:p
 
Thanks for "subscribing" :thumb:. New shop on the horizon so hopefully more fun video's!
 
I have a couple (caugh caugh) :ohdamn:
Thanks Vic!
 
Got the side exit done. I had one hell of a time getting good gas coverage with my machine for some reason in my garage. It's not as good looking as I wanted but it is 100% functional which at the end of the day is all that matters. I will be wrapping it soon though to keep the oil filter from heat soaking.
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Now that's a sleeper! Looks awesome man and you didn't have a fan by you when you were welding did you? I know I had a hell of a time with gas coverage once and kept screwing with the machine then I realized that I shouldn't be doing it by my open garage door LOL
 
Now that's a sleeper! Looks awesome man and you didn't have a fan by you when you were welding did you? I know I had a hell of a time with gas coverage once and kept screwing with the machine then I realized that I shouldn't be doing it by my open garage door LOL
Thanks man, you know actually my garage door was open and I had a fan blowing on me. Didn't really think about that. It's been high 80's low 90's in N.C
 
I got the fuel system completed. Used some spare AN fittings I had laying around so not everything is color matching but I tried my best. I used 10AN feed from the tanks dump to a big holley filter 100 micron, to a low pressure check valve. Then I tee'd in a 6AN feed line from a single 340 pump in tank to aid in start up. 10AN all the way to pump, then another filter before rail 10 micron and a 8AN return. Going to run 50 psi base pressure and I dont have to worry about fueling for a very long time if ever again.
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I am drooooooling.........
Good luck Friday and all year, can't wait to see some numbers!!! :thumb:
 
Hey everyone the results are in and they do not disappoint! The dyno testing was done at EFISpecialties and Dave also tuned the car again. He did a great job setting it up and maximizing the powerband. I can't give everyone a big indepth discussion with logs comparing last year because that was link and this is series 2 and obviously not my computer tuning it.

Starting with the initial throttle hit hp and torque increased throughout the entire powerband. The pulls were averaging about 1.3 seconds faster compared to last year. How this relates to the track I have no idea but it has to definitely help that short track expedentially. Looking at another graph he showed me it looks as if its blowing through the converter until about 7k which is where peak torque is and continued to tighten up. To me this is a good thing for the 1320.

Looking at this dyno graph you can see about 7300RPM the 2 setups finally meet back up. I cannot explain why peak hp didn't raise any. I talked to Curt Brown a few months ago and he believes I may have reached the limits of the Evo 3 I.M on my setup. I could be at the limits of the turbo as well which wouldn't surprise me. I believe pairing the intake manifold to cams is key to a great powerband and the kelford 272s and E3 I.M work great together.

Another thing to point out if you look at 50mph 275hp and then at 60mph I'm at 550!!! I did a test hit and there is only one way to describe that "VIOLENT" straight up badass power feeling. Before I when I launched it for stall up I could get to about 2700rpm now it shot right to 3100 then has to build up over the hump. That was with no stall tuning whatsoever just the regular timing map. I didn't do anymore so I will update you guys when I get to that before the track.

Peak torque is at around 7200RPM and the H.P stays pretty steady from 7200-8400 then starts to dive off. I will work my way up to getting the shift point set right at the 8400rpm mark which really should put me right in my peak power range when it drops on the shift. I didn't log any back pressure but I made this power and torque with less boost and timing than the previous T3 bep combo. Peak timing this time was 13.4* before 17*. Peak boost is set at 42 compared to 45psi. I can gain a few hp and ft lbs if I turn it up 1-2 psi but it's not worth it in my eyes because it's literally a few.

Quoted from Matt Morrison "It proved that T4 doesn't mean slower spool while still having the extra headroom in power potential (making a larger turbo not throw off the rest of the setup). Widening the power band that much is pretty nuts! It made more torque, even way down low off boost (a significant amount, actually). It should kick ass and be really easy for large improvements in the 60' and short track for some low ETs."

There it is guys no question about it this manifold works in a big way for both auto and manual. The results from Morrisons dyno were similar to mine when looking at the initial hit and midrange curve. The turbo hits way harder, the hp and torque curve come on way earlier. I am extremely satisfied with the results and it did exactly what I needed it to do on my setup. Being on a smaller turbo than what they tested my gains were huge. I'm sure any smaller T4 twin scroll turbos would see a bigger gain as well say the BW363 flavor cough cough Scott LOL. I hope this answers a lot of your thoughts and questions regarding the exhaust manifold and it's unique design. I will answer as much as I can guys and I'm going to let the car do the rest of the talking for me on the track.

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Goddamn, that thing is mean.

It is a vast improvement over last year. The power comes on so strong now. That test hit i did just punching it from 3100rpm at a stop felt faster than when i would launch at 4100rpm and 10 psi. The track is going to confirm a lot of things. I don't get to wrapped up on dyno numbers with the auto trans it cannot simulate the same load and conditions as the track does.
 
It's been almost 2 months since I posted and with reason. Car was running great took it on a few cruises got groceries and all. Hit the track on June 1st for a nice easy 1st pass just to get a log make sure everything was in check before I hit it 100%. Took off at 2800RPM half throttle shifted to 2nd gear roughly 6k punched it and it felt like it missed and then boom. Mind you this was probably 4500-5k RPM maybe 8psi of boost so nothing I consider to be pounding on the engine. Pulled off to the side of track lots of smoke from the oil all over the place didn't start on fire so that was a plus. #3 rod let go, I have not torn it down yet but the rod punched a hole in the back of the block I can put my fist through, smashed the pan so bad I need to use a mallet to remove the tcase.

Mechanical timing was still dead on, coolant was still full pulled the valve cover and all of the rockers are still in tact. Hoping the head was not damaged at all. The big end of the rod is still on the crank so I am going to guess that the manley H beam decided to break in half. It is really my own fault for going well beyond the recommended hp rating of the rod though.

I already bought a new crank, virgin 6 bolt block, ffwd vader rods (no more playing with fire). Not sure if the single piston is still good so I can stick with my hd wisecos and just slap some fresh rings on them (only 500 miles on this engine) or go with some custom gas ported pistons. I'll be back the timeframe is the unknown factor because I spent more than intended this past off season never planned for a engine replacement. It's part of the game though.
 
This car is going to be a monster and hurt some feelings for sure. I'm interested in how you ran the 2g cam sensor and what work needs to be done to convert from a 1g

All you have to do is drill and tap the intake cam. I used my drill and did it while still in car. You just have to be very patient and make it as straight as possible. It would have been much easier outside the car. I bought a 2g pigtail and just wired it in to the cam sensor signal wire with the positive and ground. It does not take very long at all and no more messing with setting base timing and re adjusting after cam gear changes.
 
Long overdue update on the car. I just pulled the motor a few weeks ago to look at the damage it was quite interesting. It looks as if the wrist pin landing actually let go which after talking to a few guys they have seen it happen with on a couple hd wisecos as well. The head was fine I sent it out just to make sure even though I dod not seen any visual damage to make me think the piston smacked the head. Sold the e3 manifold, k272s and the 4" ETS. Bought a Magnus v4 mani, gsc s3 cams and a ETS 6" i.c. New shortblock is almost here wisecos hds again 10:1 compression tool steel pins, wet block and grp solid aluminum rods. This block has already been proven at 1300awhp yes even being a wet block. I've been thinking about selling the hx40 and slapping a bw s476 on it but I dont think the c2 converter can handle that power and funds are running low to make that kind of purchase right now. Next week I should have the car back together and fired up. I will be sure to post updates on the project so you guys can follow along. Alot of guys don't like to post up failures but it's part of the game when you're pushing the limits.
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