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2G Fuel Pump Rewire Issue (burning hot!)

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There are a lot of "oem" approved things that are ridiculous.

My reasoning for butt connectors specifically is the type of pot metal used in many of them is absolute garbage, and I've measured as high as 7 ohms of resistance across but connectors that are supposedly approved for my work every day. If I try to use that in just about any circuit I have, it will not work properly and i can't guarantee my jobs, let alone have a reliably functional product leave the shop.

Just saying, if you can solder a high current connection, it will be superior to a butt splice connector in every way.

Sorry if that was taken as "misinformation".
 
Saying using a butt connector with anything more than an amp or two is a no-no is misinformation. That's all I ask that you not spread.

As far as the butt connectors go. I have used butt connectors and solder in just about any circuit dealing with automotive. You must understand electrical and use common sense when making repairs to certain circuits. You also must pay attention to the type of products you are using. Butt connectors are sold far and wide. Too often, people are making repairs with "dollar store" butt connectors that are absolutely inferior. Everything I use is a heat shrink butt connector from name brands. They aren't cheap but when I am repairing electrical circuits, I don't want cheap.

To talk on soldering, technique as well as the product (type and brand of solder) people are using will determine the quality of the repair.
 
That's fair, and an oversight on my part.

Either way, imho there are better ways to connect, especially a high draw circuit like the fuel pump, than with a butt connector. I've never even looked at the pre-packaged fuel pump rewire kits, i just DIY'd mine, but it surprises me they'd supply butt connectors.

Either way, there's definitely some resistance somewhere, and it's usually a ground or high impedance on the main power. It's possible the relay is damaged as well.
 
Saying using a butt connector with anything more than an amp or two is a no-no is misinformation. That's all I ask that you not spread.

As far as the butt connectors go. I have used butt connectors and solder in just about any circuit dealing with automotive. You must understand electrical and use common sense when making repairs to certain circuits. You also must pay attention to the type of products you are using. Butt connectors are sold far and wide. Too often, people are making repairs with "dollar store" butt connectors that are absolutely inferior. Everything I use is a heat shrink butt connector from name brands. They aren't cheap but when I am repairing electrical circuits, I don't want cheap.

To talk on soldering, technique as well as the product (type and brand of solder) people are using will determine the quality of the repair.
Could recommend a brand of connections that you use?
 
Pico is the brand name - heat shrink butt connectors. I own an auto repair shop so I have tons of different tools for crimping as well. Making sure you get a good solid crimp is essential. Should be able to tug on the wires and not have them pull out of the connector. Then use a heat gun to shrink the butt connector for a weather proof seal.

An old catalog from their website.

http://www.picowiring.com/catalog.html

Tametalon, have you ever tried the solder and heat shrink butt connectors? They are in that catalog as well. They are pretty expensive but make for a nice solid connection when done right. They can take a little getting use to.
 
Pico is the brand name - heat shrink butt connectors. I own an auto repair shop so I have tons of different tools for crimping as well. Making sure you get a good solid crimp is essential. Should be able to tug on the wires and not have them pull out of the connector. Then use a heat gun to shrink the butt connector for a weather proof seal.

An old catalog from their website.

http://www.picowiring.com/catalog.html

Tametalon, have you ever tried the solder and heat shrink butt connectors? They are in that catalog as well. They are pretty expensive but make for a nice solid connection when done right. They can take a little getting use to.
Much obliged, sir.
 
Tametalon, have you ever tried the solder and heat shrink butt connectors? They are in that catalog as well. They are pretty expensive but make for a nice solid connection when done right. They can take a little getting use to.

I have, and in all honesty, I can solder much faster. I'm sure they work well, but in my environment the price and speed of them defeats the purpose. Most of my wiring is interior work, and if I do exterior, I'll solder and heatshrink with expandable sheathing.

The only crimp hardware I use is caps occasionally. I even solder my end lugs on so I don't rely on crimps.

But if they work then it's nice to have options!
 
Please don't spread mis-information. Butt connectors and soldering are both OEM approved forms of connecting wiring.

Which OEMs? And how recent is that info? I was designing some harnesses for GM within the past decade, and they seemed very insistent on not using solder. I don't think butt connectors were on the approved list either.

Back in the 90s though, both of them were common on OEMs.
 
Pico is the brand name - heat shrink butt connectors. I own an auto repair shop so I have tons of different tools for crimping as well.

Much obliged, sir.

If you are ordering anything from Pico, also get their depinning tools. They are knock offs of the GM tools, but $6 for a set of 3 is worth having them in the tool kit. I think the PN is something like 0660PT or something like that.
 
Just about all of them. I have received pig tail kits with butt connectors and some where instructions or TSB's from the manufacturer REQUIRE soldering. Have never found a rhyme or reason. (Interior vs Powertrain, etc) Soldering is definitely a required skill to have but to be honest when dealing with wiring, quality is the most important aspect. Unfortunately too many people are looking at time vs quality and instead go the quick easy route.

Dealt with it today on a older Crown Victoria. Voltage is dropping from EEC fuse to PCM power relay. Common for wiring to rub in the corners of the radiator support. Vehicle owner is wanting to be too cheap to actually find the problem and repair it. Wanted to just run a bypass wire from the battery to the relay. If done correctly would be a fine repair but the problem is there are two other modules that receive power on this same wire. Can't take the easy way out on this one.
Which OEMs? And how recent is that info? I was designing some harnesses for GM within the past decade, and they seemed very insistent on not using solder. I don't think butt connectors were on the approved list either.

Back in the 90s though, both of them were common on OEMs.
 
Just about all of them. I have received pig tail kits with butt connectors and some where instructions or TSB's from the manufacturer REQUIRE soldering.

Oh, you meant REPAIRING wiring. Yes, you will see things like buttsplices and solder come out to make repairs, especially if the alternative would cost the company a lot of money. But I think MOST OEMs have gotten away from using/approving buttsplices and solder in their harness design, because they don't work as well as new options for connecting wire.


Dealt with it today on a older Crown Victoria. Voltage is dropping from EEC fuse to PCM power relay. Common for wiring to rub in the corners of the radiator support. Vehicle owner is wanting to be too cheap to actually find the problem and repair it. Wanted to just run a bypass wire from the battery to the relay. If done correctly would be a fine repair but the problem is there are two other modules that receive power on this same wire. Can't take the easy way out on this one.

I don't know how mechanics/shops deal with that cheapo mentality on a day to day basis.
 
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