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1G Auto 6 bolt motor into current manual car

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AWD-Tony

Proven Member
6,801
3,735
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
I found an auto 6 bolt and planning on purchasing it if it's still available. I've read some thread and don't think I'll need anything for the swap into a manual. The only thing I'll need to do is remove the ring on the crank for the auto flywheel. Is there anything else I need to purchase or modify?

Thanks, Tony
 
Did you get a wiring harness and TCU with it Tony?
Just stuff I would think I need if I swapped....and a shifter with the cable.
 
Ahhh, I see. Man you should only need the flywheel off of your setup or a spare 6 bolt flywheel, shouldn't you? And take the pilot bushing out of the back of the auto motors crank (2g's have a pilot bushing for the auto's, not sure if 1g's do or not, just assuming they do). :thumb:
 
Yeah Tony, the motor won't care which trans it has on it, but remember, the auto cars had smaller cams and 390cc injectors so just keep that in mind too.
I have ran without a dowel before but if you can find one and get it out, it would be good to install it too. Forgot about that little thing.
 
Yeah Tony, the motor won't care which trans it has on it, but remember, the auto cars had smaller cams and 390cc injectors so just keep that in mind too.
I have ran without a dowel before but if you can find one and get it out, it would be good to install it too. Forgot about that little thing.

Can I use the cams and caps from my motor? Or is that for a machine shop?
 
Cams YES, just reuse the cam caps Tony. Don't ever mix cam caps, they are line bored and should always stay with the head as they are matched. :thumb:
 
Anytime man! Hope we got ya the info you needed, I think we did. :)
 
Another thing about the auto motor. The autos run 43.5 psi fuel pressure. Manuals ran 38 ish which flows about 411 ish cc's of fuel. I can't remember exactly what they flow but I think it was Steve who did the math on that
 
Finally saw blue smoke when I started it yesterday. Valve stem seals most likely as it doesn’t smoke any other time. I do lose 3/4 quart in 1k if I’m driving it hard. I got a quote from machine shop of $1000 w upgraded rods pistons and new bearings and $250 to clean and deck the head. Are those figures reasonable? The price is for me to remove block and strip the head.
 
What kind of "upgraded" rods and pistons over the already capable 500hp stock stuff? Its a 6 bolt my man!!! :sneaky:
 
Not sure. I didn’t get into specifics bc I didn’t want to waste his time since it will most likely be sometime during the winter. Really just wanted a ballpark figure so I can start filling the piggy bank
 
Man tough to say. Without upgraded rods and pistons you should cut your expense by 400ish maybe more depending on what the upgrade consisted of.
 
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