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2G Battery relocation and 4 white wires.

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v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,822
266
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
Okay so I have a post about doing a battery relocation but this is a separate issue, sort of. And trying to keep the other one more for a "how-to". I know there's the 4 wires coming from the fuse box that go to the battery. 2 of which go to the alternator. But in a properly wired alternator relocation with a kill switch, I'd assume that the wires are disconnected from the alternator to keep the alternator from supplying power to the fuse box.

I'm having a major issue where my car won't start, a/c fan isn't working, dome lights don't turn on, window motors don't work, fuel pump stays on when key is turned on, etc. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out the issue and "thinking" it maybe has something to do with those two wires I deleted from the fuse box to the battery. What are you guys doing with the wires??? Thanks!
 
Right, I have 2 of the wires going from the fuse box to the power distribution block. But wondering if maybe I have the wrong 2 wires connected. Hmmm....
 
That's most likely your problem. If the fuse box isn't getting power none of your accessories(including ignition switch) will work.
 
You need power from the battery to the fuse box, no matter how you run it and it goes in on those two white wires.
 
The ignition switch still works and the engine turns over. This is a picture of the only 2 wires I deleted. The other wires still go to the power distribution block though.
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I think I figured it out. I think the white wires on the left go to the alternator and I removed the wrong ones. I'll check this out over the weekend.
 
Yep, that did it. Fixed my electrical issues. Now just have to figure out why the new fuel pump stays on when the key is in the on position (car not running) and won't shut off until the key is turned back off, and why the car won't start. But that was a big issue I resolved. Shew!!!
 
Yep, that did it. Fixed my electrical issues. Now just have to figure out why the new fuel pump stays on when the key is in the on position (car not running) and won't shut off until the key is turned back off, and why the car won't start. But that was a big issue I resolved. Shew!!!
The fuel pump will stay on if you changed the way the relay was wired. Maybe it's just priming and is louder than your last one? Thanks for sharing the solution to your mysterious wires:thumb:
 
All I did was move the power wire (#87 on the relay) from the stock pump location, to the new pump. If it's priming, it's doing a lot of it. Lol.
 
Check your fuel pressure. Maybe it's constantly priming because it's not pushing enough fuel to build any pressure, hence the no start. I've had a new Walbro go bad in the first few cycles.
 
Dude, do some basic diagnostics.... check fuel pump in Link and see if the fuel pump tab is checked. If not check the relay... then continue down the line to MPI..etc.
 
Finally figured this crap out. Gopher on here posted up a good picture and it helped me figure this crap out. I apparently had pin #86 of the relay connected to a yellow wire for whatever the reason. I now have it connected properly and all works as it should. I'm soooooo freaking happy I got this part resolved.
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Bit of a Revive. So I have redone my charging wire because it was shorting out and blowing the 100amp alternator fuse and during that time I took the time to relocate the battery, and wire in a kill switch to my bumper for the alternator wire, battery, and fuel pump.
Looking at v8areslow's photo of the 4 white wires. 2 of which power the fuse box, and 2 of which go from the battery cable, through a 100amp fuse at the fuse box, and through the "charging cable" to the alternator.
Those 2 white charging wires i am no longer using to connect the alternator so, can I completely remove the fuse and the other side of those 2 wires that come out of the fuse box and connect to the power wire? Or does that 100amp fuse and power wires do more than act as a fused link for the charging wire?
I am adding a photo of how I wired my battery relocation and charging cable with the exception of the kill switch. I did wire the back end towards the battery a little different due to the kill switch on the bumper. In the photo, all 4 wires are still connected. So my question, is can I remove the 2 that went to the alternator fuse and remove the fuse or do all 4 wires and the fuse still need to be connected to power and in place?
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