Resolved 2g GSX won’t go in gear when car started

[Biddy420]

I just bought a 5speed 1998 gsx to replace my 97 gst the only issue with car is it will it go into gear when car is on ive done some research and seems like there are a few things it could be I’m looking if possible for a list of everything that it could be and I’ll just replace all at once got a steal on the car don’t mind going nuts to make sure it’s fixed

 

[Biddy420]

So far I have bought a new slave and master cylinders I bought the slave cylinder extension rod and stainless steel line from master to slave from extream psi once they come gonna do them all at once as most threads point to the issue being with them as opposed to a actual clutch. I do plan on upgrading clutch this summer when my motor is back from the machine shop I’m throwing is a 6 bolt block 7 bolt head hybrid fully build with eagle rods mahle pistons supertech valves Manley springs and bc 272 cams when I do the swap I will be putting in a stage 3 clutch new flywheel and replacing pivot ball and fork as well seems like most the posts I read the issue ended up being the master being too tight on firewall I just picked up the car on Friday decided to throw my motor in it instead of my gst I had originally planned on using

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Instead of just throwing parts at the car, I would try some troubleshooting to figure out the issue. Based on what you have stated, the car presumably goes/shifts into gear while off?

Things you may want to check that were not mentioned:

• Have you confirmed that there is enough fluid in the reservoir?

• How old is the hydraulic fluid?

• Have you inspected both the slave and master cylinders for leaks?

• Have you confirmed correct operation of the slave cylinder?

• What position does the pivot fork rest?
  • http://www.teamrip.com/pivot-ball/

• Have you tried adjusting the engagement?

If the hydraulic system if fine, then your problem lies within the pivot fork or clutch itself. An extended slave rod is not a recommended solution to your issue.

See below for clutch pedal adjust for the 2g:

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[doubleclutch]

A simple clutch engagement adjustment could be the reason. The 2g said above. I'm pretty sure the master cylinder can't be too tight to the firewall, you don't really want it to move.

 

[pauleyman]

So far I have bought a new slave and master cylinders I bought the slave cylinder extension rod and stainless steel line from master to slave from extream psi once they come gonna do them all at once as most threads point to the issue being with them as opposed to a actual clutch. I do plan on upgrading clutch this summer when my motor is back from the machine shop I’m throwing is a 6 bolt block 7 bolt head hybrid fully build with eagle rods mahle pistons supertech valves Manley springs and bc 272 cams when I do the swap I will be putting in a stage 3 clutch new flywheel and replacing pivot ball and fork as well seems like most the posts I read the issue ended up being the master being too tight on firewall I just picked up the car on Friday decided to throw my motor in it instead of my gst I had originally planned on using

Extended rods do not do anything positive without other detrimental effects. It isn't possible.

 

[Biddy420]

Nothing looked to be leaking but the car appears to be 100% stock guy i bought it from owned it 14 years and sold because he could not figure out the clutch issue all parts are clean but look original car has 115k miles I just assumed to replace everything to know they are all good I’ll be putting my 6 bolt motor I’ve been building in this car and making over 550hp so kind of figured it would not hurt to replace it all when motor is back from machine shop I will be upgrading the clutch to handle the power it will make just hoping I can have a little fun with this running 7 bolt till my swap is ready

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Nothing looked to be leaking but the car appears to be 100% stock guy i bought it from owned it 14 years and sold because he could not figure out the clutch issue all parts are clean but look original car has 115k miles I just assumed to replace everything to know they are all good I’ll be putting my 6 bolt motor I’ve been building in this car and making over 550hp so kind of figured it would not hurt to replace it all when motor is back from machine shop I will be upgrading the clutch to handle the power it will make just hoping I can have a little fun with this running 7 bolt till my swap is ready

What answers are you seeking then?

 

[Biddy420]

Basically if anyone has had any of those symptoms and what was their issue fluid is full it does not appear to leak not sure how old Fluid is I bought car with the issue and have owned it for 4 days all the articles I’ve read on here never posted the solution other then the one guy that said that his master was too tight he said it’s only soposed to be 7 ft lbs seemed odd but that’s what the guy claimed was his solution I’ll try to adjust it like your vid shows and also try and bleed it before I replace them I should have time tomorrow to give it a shot if all else fails and it ends up being the clutch it’s self any recommendations on clutch model or stage I will be running 550+ hp

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Basically if anyone has had any of those symptoms and what was their issue fluid is full it does not appear to leak not sure how old Fluid is I bought car with the issue and have owned it for 4 days all the articles I’ve read on here never posted the solution other then the one guy that said that his master was too tight he said it’s only soposed to be 7 ft lbs seemed odd but that’s what the guy claimed was his solution I’ll try to adjust it like your vid shows and also try and bleed it before I replace them I should have time tomorrow to give it a shot if all else fails and it ends up being the clutch it’s self any recommendations on clutch model or stage I will be running 550+ hp

It is good that you are trying to research the issue you are having, but some diagnosis will need to be done on your end. The questions I asked are merely to help identify the issue you are having. I would not try adjusting the clutch until you have confirmed that the hydraulic system is operating correctly. I would look into each question in the order provided so you don't waste time. While some of these may sound like trivial/obvious questions, they are often overlooked. For example, you stated that the fluid reservoir appeared to be full and no leaks present. Since you have only owned the car 4 days, and don't seem to be able to drive the car, you may be unaware of a slow leak.

any recommendations on clutch model or stage I will be running 550+ hp

Let's stick to the current issue you are having before asking about clutch options for your planned setup. This will help future members read through threads much easier without having to sift through off-topic discussion.

Lastly, I think it will help most of us make better sense of your posts if you could try to use a little more punctuation in your posts. I am not trying to give you hard time, but I have had to read your posts 3-4 times to make sense of what you are trying to say.

 

[doubleclutch]

Hard to run 550+hp without being able to get into gear. It is much more time and cost efficient to only replace parts that are bad. You also have a high risk of making the issue more complicated by replacing parts that are likely not the issue. Please try to troubleshoot based on the advise that the people on this forum provide. It will save you a lot of work.

 

[Biddy420]

Ok so I had a little time to go over everything. the slave cylinder and master seem to function but there looks to be a very very slight leak out of slave. Not much at all just a little damp around the bleeder. so a little background I’ve been a mechanic for 16 years I’ve also built a few dsm. I’m very familiar with autos as all my prior dsm were auto and I was mechanic for a cab company also all autos. So I’m not very knowledgeable on 5 speed issues never really worked on them before. So here is my next question could there not be enough pressure in the slave to fully dissengage the clutch the arm pushed the fork for sure but would a very small leak still cause my issues or is if for sure a clutch if the hydronic system functions the slave looks to have been recently replaced the master is deff original still the lines going into master are pretty stripped also. I ordered a extream psi full braided line new master and slave are they worth throwing in at this point either way I will be replacing them when I do my 6 bolt swap.
For my next question if it is for sure the clutch I would like recommendations. Motor I’m putting in is fully built eagle rods mahle 10.1-1 pistons block o ringed also, head work included stainless valves Manley springs and bc 272 cams, will be running a precision 5031 turbo on a fp manifold large frontmount and Magnus smim.
Sorry I know a lot at one time I don’t get a lot of free time so I’m firing away

 

[pauleyman]

Put in in gear. Clutch in then start it. You state the fork does move. If the car lurches hard when trying to start I'd say you have a clutch issue. Honestly I wouldn't be surprised if it's multiple items both hydraulic and mechanical. Some diagnosis on your end is in order. How far does the fork move? Is it bled well? Is master adjusted at all? Could be on its last threads.

 

[AWD-Tony]

When I had my 2g, I replaced the clutch and trans because the 6 puck destroyed the tranny. When I installed new clutch and tranny, I had to adjust the shaft from master to pedal. If I remember correctly, it had the same symptoms. It wouldn't go into gear with engine on.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

all the articles I’ve read on here never posted the solution

For my next question if it is for sure the clutch I would like recommendations. Motor I’m putting in is fully built eagle rods mahle 10.1-1 pistons block o ringed also, head work included stainless valves Manley springs and bc 272 cams, will be running a precision 5031 turbo on a fp manifold large frontmount and Magnus smim.

Please start a new thread about clutch options for your build so we can help with your current issue.


Have you bled the clutch system?

 

[Biddy420]

I’m gonna bleed system today I’ll let u know if it helps and I will start a new thread for clutch options also sorry to add more on here. But so is it possible for there to be enough pressure to push the slave cylinder rod out but not enough for it to dissengage the clutch is pretty much what I’m asking. I was under her yesterday and the rod deff is functioning when the clutch is pressed

 

[Biddy420]

So I followed the vid and adjusted the clutch pedal. Mine was adjusted too far out it was blocking the bleeder valve on master like shown in the vid. I corrected it just to the point where I’m able to push the slave rod back in, now my issue is the pedal sticks when it’s pushed down I bleed it a lot still everytime the clutch is depressed the first time it will stick if I pump it up a few times it will come back up but then the next time I press it one time it sticks again still won’t go in gear when running. I’m a little lost I’ve been a mechanic at a taxi company for a long time but never worked on a 5 speed car untill now. Any ideas there don’t seem to be any leaks so I’m not sure where to go from here. I have a brand new in package master slave and braided steel full clutch line. Would it be worth a shot replacing them all and bench bleeding them prior to install? The new master cylinder says on the box that if it is not bench bleed before install it would not perform correctly and it looks as if it was recently changed after looking around the line going into it the nut is stripped to hell they clearly used the wrong type of wrench when replacing it not a line wrench

 

[Biddy420]

Also forgot to mention I pulled the boot off clutch fork nothing looks damaged inside and the clutch fork only has play the direction of the rods travel when it’s pressed back in. When the rod is extended the fork is very tight when it’s depressed only left to right play no up and down so it seems to be in good shape.

 

[Biddy420]

I also have a 2g gst I know the whole clutch system minus the flywheel are the same anything else u would recommend swapping over other then clutch

 

[pauleyman]

If clutch pedal drops to floor replace the master.

 

[Biddy420]

So replaced master slave and installed the extream psi stainless full line. Still have same issue pedal feels a lot better now. Car still will not go into gear while started. So now I’m guessing it’s clutch time? What would cause it to not dissengage the shift fork didn’t seem to have any play looked to be moving fine and not hitting the housing

 

[Biddy420]

So I ordered new stage 3 clutch xtd, also got new oem tob and the competition forged fork and pivot ball from extream psi anything else I should replace while in there?

 

[Biddy420]

I chose not to get a flywheel as the 7 bolt will only be in car another few months then my 6 bolt will be going in with a new flywheel

 

[mattp_65]

I bet a spring popped out of the clutch disc and lodged itself and got stuck between flywheel and clutch.

 

[Biddy420]

That would make sense I looked through the clutch fork boot and everything there seemed alright fork was still attached to tob

 

[pauleyman]

I chose not to get a flywheel as the 7 bolt will only be in car another few months then my 6 bolt will be going in with a new flywheel

I have a lightened flywheel. I don't like it. Next clutch I do I'm going back to stock.