v8s_are_slow
20+ Year Contributor
- 2,823
- 266
- Sep 30, 2002
-
Panama City,
Florida
I recently ordered the new JMF, billet intake manifold and S90 74mm throttle body. And all I can say is that this thing is huge. So large in fact that I'm having to do a battery relocation, which honestly I did not want or had any intentions of doing. I LIKE it in the stock location and small batteries plain suck, but in my quest to do what's needed for more power, I'm doing it. Obviously. Sigh....
Anyway, I'm not making some write-up article where people can't reply because I'm still wondering about a few things here and there. I will say that some people suggested that I cut out the floor pan in the rear of the car, get a piece of metal to weld in there and make it a cleaner look. My thoughts on that were a big no for a few reasons. #1, I'm trying to get my car ready to race asap and just don't have that sort of time, nor the extra funds to do it. #2, By doing that, I feel it's allowing more air to be trapped up under the rear of the car and caught by the rear bumper, thus helping to slow it down. I'm no fan of holes or having a hacked up rear bumper. And #3, okay, I forget that reason. But anyway, I'm posting everything I purchased (all from Amazon because I returned a part and they gave me store credit and made life easier for "me" to just get it from them).
First item was to drill through the rear bumper for the battery kill switch. I'm not a fan of "not" doing things correctly so yes, I'm using a kill switch, even though not everyone does. I used a 3/4" wood drill bit thing or whatever it's called and picked out a nice location to drill. Going straight through also allowed me to poke a small hole on the inside so I'd know where to cut and be centered with the hole in the bumper so that I could install the switch. Be careful not to get any wires of course. My rear interior is all stripped out by the way to save weight and I don't have anyone sitting in the back seats anyway.
At this point I used a 3" hole saw to cut the hole. Probably could've used a bigger one so I could squeeze my hand through the hole but I didn't wanna go crazy. I of course drilled through the spot welds of the bracket in the picture above to get the gas door cable out of my way, and drill a small hole above where I drilled the 3" hole so that I could relocate the clip for the wiring.
Next for me was to remove this ugly piece of crap in the back and clean up the rear some. This step could be skipped by some or if you wanted it in a new location but I just couldn't skip it. No, that's not rust, it's dirt from the previous owner that I never saw or noticed until I took out the spare for this job.
I drilled out all of the spot welds and out it came.
Looks like my car was at a shooting range.
After using a grinder with a flapper disc, I was able to clean out much of the dirt, sharp edges, and remove the old paint. Then of course taped everything off. I didn't wanna deal with welding the holes shut (which I could've done) because of time restraints of getting the welder which doesn't belong to me and figured most of these holes wouldn't be seen anyway because of the battery box so I used silicone to fill them in. I smoothed out the silicone the best I could and drilled 2 holes for the battery box and then painted away.
This is "most" of everything I had ordered. At this point, I was missing the 250 amp, inline fuse and grommets aren't pictured. I ordered 2 wiring kits because I'm running a power wire to a distribution block under the hood, and then another directly to the alternator. Ignore the ARP's. Those were for my hubs because of the Weld wheels I have on my car and needed longer studs (that wasn't a fun job at all).
Some people tell me the Moroso box use to come in blue but now come in black. Had it been blue I would've ordered something else. Some people go with a Taylor box, and some people no box at all. Yes, I'm running an Optima battery which "might" not require a box but my decision for getting a box anyway is that if I ever decide to purchase a new battery, I'll have a box already that will get the job done and no worries on my end.
This is where I'm at currently with it. I need more grommets and the local stores are currently sold out of the sizes I need so that's stopping me from running the power wires to the front where I need them.
Anyway, I'm not making some write-up article where people can't reply because I'm still wondering about a few things here and there. I will say that some people suggested that I cut out the floor pan in the rear of the car, get a piece of metal to weld in there and make it a cleaner look. My thoughts on that were a big no for a few reasons. #1, I'm trying to get my car ready to race asap and just don't have that sort of time, nor the extra funds to do it. #2, By doing that, I feel it's allowing more air to be trapped up under the rear of the car and caught by the rear bumper, thus helping to slow it down. I'm no fan of holes or having a hacked up rear bumper. And #3, okay, I forget that reason. But anyway, I'm posting everything I purchased (all from Amazon because I returned a part and they gave me store credit and made life easier for "me" to just get it from them).
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First item was to drill through the rear bumper for the battery kill switch. I'm not a fan of "not" doing things correctly so yes, I'm using a kill switch, even though not everyone does. I used a 3/4" wood drill bit thing or whatever it's called and picked out a nice location to drill. Going straight through also allowed me to poke a small hole on the inside so I'd know where to cut and be centered with the hole in the bumper so that I could install the switch. Be careful not to get any wires of course. My rear interior is all stripped out by the way to save weight and I don't have anyone sitting in the back seats anyway.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
At this point I used a 3" hole saw to cut the hole. Probably could've used a bigger one so I could squeeze my hand through the hole but I didn't wanna go crazy. I of course drilled through the spot welds of the bracket in the picture above to get the gas door cable out of my way, and drill a small hole above where I drilled the 3" hole so that I could relocate the clip for the wiring.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next for me was to remove this ugly piece of crap in the back and clean up the rear some. This step could be skipped by some or if you wanted it in a new location but I just couldn't skip it. No, that's not rust, it's dirt from the previous owner that I never saw or noticed until I took out the spare for this job.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I drilled out all of the spot welds and out it came.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Looks like my car was at a shooting range.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
After using a grinder with a flapper disc, I was able to clean out much of the dirt, sharp edges, and remove the old paint. Then of course taped everything off. I didn't wanna deal with welding the holes shut (which I could've done) because of time restraints of getting the welder which doesn't belong to me and figured most of these holes wouldn't be seen anyway because of the battery box so I used silicone to fill them in. I smoothed out the silicone the best I could and drilled 2 holes for the battery box and then painted away.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This is "most" of everything I had ordered. At this point, I was missing the 250 amp, inline fuse and grommets aren't pictured. I ordered 2 wiring kits because I'm running a power wire to a distribution block under the hood, and then another directly to the alternator. Ignore the ARP's. Those were for my hubs because of the Weld wheels I have on my car and needed longer studs (that wasn't a fun job at all).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Some people tell me the Moroso box use to come in blue but now come in black. Had it been blue I would've ordered something else. Some people go with a Taylor box, and some people no box at all. Yes, I'm running an Optima battery which "might" not require a box but my decision for getting a box anyway is that if I ever decide to purchase a new battery, I'll have a box already that will get the job done and no worries on my end.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This is where I'm at currently with it. I need more grommets and the local stores are currently sold out of the sizes I need so that's stopping me from running the power wires to the front where I need them.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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