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2G Coolant in oil

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Dakota Biddinger

Proven Member
139
2
Aug 5, 2017
Juneau, Alaska
So I've been working on my car for a while now, and the first time it ever started the coolant mixed with the oil, so I pressure tested the cylinders and had low numbers so I changed the head gasket. Fast forward a bit and it's at the shop, they're almost done and they say that the coolant mixed with the oil again and that it's most likely a warped head. I take the head off, get it resurfaced and pressure tested, and put back on and everything hooked back up. Now today I go to the shop and go to start it up to pull it into the shop and we see that the coolant mixed with the oil again. Any ideas ? Debating whether I should pursue the problem and fix it or just sell the car. It's a 95 talon tsi with a 94 engine in it. 7 bolt. And yes I got new head bolts each time I took the head off and torqued them correctly
 
My thoughts are ..
(1) Did you resurface both the head and the deck, or just the head?
(2) Are you using new head gaskets each time? MLS or composite? What are you doing for surface prep?
(3) You might need to flush the coolant numerous times before its all out of the system. It's probably best to use water for this as to not waste money, and to see it's clearly flushed. What you might be seeing is residual from the old head gasket failure.
(4) What are compression numbers now? Bear in mind they will be lower before a motor with cylinder work is broken in, but should be equal.
 
My thoughts are ..
(1) Did you resurface both the head and the deck, or just the head?
(2) Are you using new head gaskets each time? MLS or composite? What are you doing for surface prep?
(3) You might need to flush the coolant numerous times before its all out of the system. It's probably best to use water for this as to not waste money, and to see it's clearly flushed. What you might be seeing is residual from the old head gasket failure.
(4) What are compression numbers now? Bear in mind they will be lower before a motor with cylinder work is broken in, but should be equal.
I only got the head resurfaced, we cleaned off all the old head gasket and gunk from the block, I've replaced the head gasket each time with an oem composite one, and I haven't yet checked the compression numbers. My mechanic is bringing it into the shop I'm guessing tomorrow so he'll probably check the compression
 
@donniekak beat me to it, but that was my guess as well. The low compression numbers could just be from worn rings and fooling you into thinking its a head gasket. I would do a leakdown to confirm where you are losing compression as well.
 
@donniekak beat me to it, but that was my guess as well. The low compression numbers could just be from worn rings and fooling you into thinking its a head gasket. I would do a leakdown to confirm where you are losing compression as well.
Turbo can do it too but oil cooler is more likely
 
Did you (or they I should say) have the head checked for cracks? That's my first thought on it judging by what you are saying. Possibly block too, but more likely the head. And at least have the deck on the block measured with a real machinist straight edge and feeler gauge. A lot of techs don't do that, they just clean the surface and place the new gasket.
I had one car come in the shop that we sent the head out for three times because we kept getting it back with even visible cracks! They don't always do great checks. It's almost impossible to miss when they use the dye and uv light checks. It tells me that some azz hat machinists get lazy and don't even do it when you paid for it.
 
Did you (or they I should say) have the head checked for cracks? That's my first thought on it judging by what you are saying. Possibly block too, but more likely the head. And at least have the deck on the block measured with a real machinist straight edge and feeler gauge. A lot of techs don't do that, they just clean the surface and place the new gasket.
I had one car come in the shop that we sent the head out for three times because we kept getting it back with even visible cracks! They don't always do great checks. It's almost impossible to miss when they use the dye and uv light checks. It tells me that some azz hat machinists get lazy and don't even do it when you paid for it.
I'm assuming they would have checked for cracks but I'm not sure
 
I don't know what the mechanic did before he put the oil in and stuff. Before I got there with the new oil filter he said it ran, then I changed the oil filter and it mixed so I'm just guessing I put it on top tight

Well then take it back and tell the mechanic to actually do his job and to quit wasting your time and money.

You fail to understand that mechanics don't know their butt from a hole in the ground with these cars. So if you're not actually working on the car the only piece of advice we can give you, is to tell the mechanic he needs to give you your money back so you can take it to another shop that knows how to put on a cylinder head.
 
Well then take it back and tell the mechanic to actually do his job and to quit wasting your time and money.

You fail to understand that mechanics don't know their butt from a hole in the ground with these cars. So if you're not actually working on the car the only piece of advice we can give you, is to tell the mechanic he needs to give you your money back so you can take it to another shop that knows how to put on a cylinder head.
I put on the cylinder head not the mechanic. And literally every single other shop in town says they don't work on card older than 2000 or something like that. The mechanic has told me everything he's done
 
So let me get it straight. Car has been mixing coolant and oil. You put the new head gasket on originally, car still mixed coolant and oil, paid a shop to do the job over again, (this time sending the head out to be checked correct)? After completion, it's still mixing coolant and oil.

As others have stated, it's important to thoroughly clean out the system. But it sounds like there is still a problem. Is there a compression and leak down test pinpointing the problem area? If all the signs of a bad head gasket are there, the job was poorly performed and will need done again. Car overheating, super high pressure in the coolant hoses quickly, constant bubbles coming out the radiator with one of those fitted funnels kits and the system fully bled.

I'm betting there is a corroded or pitted area on the block or head between a coolant and oil passage that the gasket can't seal. Or a hair line crack up in one of the coolant passages in the head. Someone is dropping the ball on this check. I think the shop is responsible once the job was taken on. They wont give you money back, but they need to do the job over again. Maybe locate a used head and provide it for the do over.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only other places coolant and oil enter and exit together is the oil filter housing/cooler and the turbo? I don't see this happening, but I suppose there could be an extreme case where one could get cracked and allow the fluids to meet. This is next to (impossible). But depending on how quickly the oil is mixing with the coolant, you may want to check the hose routing.. maybe a coolant hose is connected to an oil fitting vise versa. We would be looking at instant and complete coolant/oil mixture. Just helping think outside the box if it isn't he head/gasket.

But the problems gonna be in the head Im certain. Or everyone that has touched it can't do a proper head gasket install.. I guess it's possible it just needs another head gasket..
 
I mean there are several variables here working against you

1, the motor is not original and in unknown condition.

2. No compression or leak down testing was done before pulling the head. If it was bad before it hasn't been fixed by a new head gasket. The question is if the job was done correctly, well none of us knows.

3. We can't teach you about the car in condensed lessons. This takes work. It doesn't come overnight

I'm not saying it's just your mechanic, it's every mechanic. There are wrench Turners and then there are specialists, you have to understand these cars take a specialist.

So, it could be the oil cooler, it could be something else. Without having a specialist look it over we don't know.

So your best option is to read up, buckle down, and become the specialist, or sell the car and move on
 
So let me get it straight. Car has been mixing coolant and oil. You put the new head gasket on originally, car still mixed coolant and oil, paid a shop to do the job over again, (this time sending the head out to be checked correct)? After completion, it's still mixing coolant and oil.

As others have stated, it's important to thoroughly clean out the system. But it sounds like there is still a problem. Is there a compression and leak down test pinpointing the problem area? If all the signs of a bad head gasket are there, the job was poorly performed and will need done again. Car overheating, super high pressure in the coolant hoses quickly, constant bubbles coming out the radiator with one of those fitted funnels kits and the system fully bled.

I'm betting there is a corroded or pitted area on the block or head between a coolant and oil passage that the gasket can't seal. Or a hair line crack up in one of the coolant passages in the head. Someone is dropping the ball on this check. I think the shop is responsible once the job was taken on. They wont give you money back, but they need to do the job over again. Maybe locate a used head and provide it for the do over.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only other places coolant and oil enter and exit together is the oil filter housing/cooler and the turbo? I don't see this happening, but I suppose there could be an extreme case where one could get cracked and allow the fluids to meet. This is next to (impossible). But depending on how quickly the oil is mixing with the coolant, you may want to check the hose routing.. maybe a coolant hose is connected to an oil fitting vise versa. We would be looking at instant and complete coolant/oil mixture. Just helping think outside the box if it isn't he head/gasket.

But the problems gonna be in the head Im certain. Or everyone that has touched it can't do a proper head gasket install.. I guess it's possible it just needs another head gasket..
The car going to the shop was never about the head, it was about getting it to run properly. We did compression tests before we took the head off the first time, and the second time at the shop i took the head off and they resurfaced it, and did a leak down test. I have always been the one to put the head back on, and I clean everything, put the new gasket on, put the head and new head bolts on, and torque them with the proper torque specs and torquing sequence. The mechanic had told me everything he's done over text and I've been there to see some of what he's done.
 
Everybody is saying head gasket. Why? Multiple failures? I doubt it. Look at the other areas suggested. Take the filter housing off the car. Clean it up and then find out if it's compromised unless its obvious. I've seem several guys have problems with filters then overtighten the mounting stud which crushes the cooler internally.
 
I just found my spare oil cooler just in case this one is bad. I did tighten the oil filter so I think I tightened it too tight
Everybody is saying head gasket. Why? Multiple failures? I doubt it. Look at the other areas suggested. Take the filter housing off the car. Clean it up and then find out if it's compromised unless its obvious. I've seem several guys have problems with filters then overtighten the mounting stud which crushes the cooler internally.
 
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