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Of course i had to try it all on haha,

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Seat (drivers) is in now, i only managed to get 1 done as it took longer then expected with the chassis cutting i had to do! I wanted it as low as possible so i had more height for head room, so the tunnel by the shifter i had to cut out and make a reverse recess, then chop the stock rear inner seat mounting off and modify that to be lower aswell,

Welding was fun as its dirty underneath and has underseal so spot welding was a must and dont look brilliant but its strong LOL

I also modified the crappy omp brackets for more movement forwards and up and down! These are the FIA 3mm steel versions, but.... I am going to mimic them with my new location holes and have them cut from alloy to FIA regs 5mm and that way will be a tad lighter and offer more adjustments! Thry give you barely any adjustment range unkess you pay more? But it takes zero effort to have the laswr cutter add the holes? Dont make sense to me so screw them i will make my own! Haha as i always do!

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So working on the other seat today and tomorrow, so thats good news,

Another safety thing is i made a bracket for my fire extinguisher so thats now fully secured and i can start to route my hose to the bay and driver. Im going to use 2 nozzles in the bay, 1 at the fual rail side and the other is by the turbo as if i have read fans catching alight from exhaust gas thats blown the gasket and the ALT is there so incase anything goes wrong its covered!

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So i thought i would go check my helmet and hans device in the car and i got a problem!

My helmet hits the padding of the cage! And this makes my head tilt! So i need to figure this out as the cave is as high as it would go as i had to be close to the frame rails, and my seat is already damn low, so much so i cannot go any lower, i have to keep the padding for rules,

I am due to make my new seat brackets out of Aluminum soon so maybe i can work another 10mm height difference somehow! But i cannot race with a tilted head thats for sure! Anyone else with a cage have an issue with hitting? My height is 6'1" so im not exactly short so that dont help!

The last pic is if i duck down so im not far off but i need that extra room somehow!

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It's a known problem. Change to the thinner padding, move seat lower and closer to center. Build cage next time with driver seat and helmet installed. :p
The seat is already low! Im but 25mm from the floor, i can get about a other 15mm lower when i make my new seat brackets, and i need to adjust my inner harness eyelet and then i can shift the seat over a tad more as it hits the bracket currently due to my eyelet angle,

At the time i did the cage i did not have any time to mock the seats up so its annoying but its how it is, my height is an issue too so nothing to fix that! Lol

I will speak to the series advisor as i may ask if i can seam weld the cross tube along the floor and that way i certainly will be low enough but not sure on regs on that. The thinner padding may need to be done aswel to help, this is ready thinner by alot but i guess i need thinner still.
 
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I don't know the regulations. But saw an episode on tv where a basketball player had to have the floor pan lowered in order to fit in the car (he also had to have the driver seat moved to the backseat)

Are you allowed to cut out and fab up a lowered floor pan?

I also don't know how far down you could go regardless, definetly wouldn't want my butt to be the lowest point of the car.

I'm 6'4" and 270 lbs I didn't have issue with my 95gsx but it only had a 6pt cage in it and I was only 180lbs. Back then.

And I need to do a full cage in this car and it's got me worried now
 
I don't know the regulations. But saw an episode on tv where a basketball player had to have the floor pan lowered in order to fit in the car (he also had to have the driver seat moved to the backseat)

Are you allowed to cut out and fab up a lowered floor pan?

I also don't know how far down you could go regardless, definetly wouldn't want my butt to be the lowest point of the car.

I'm 6'4" and 270 lbs I didn't have issue with my 95gsx but it only had a 6pt cage in it and I was only 180lbs. Back then.

And I need to do a full cage in this car and it's got me worried now
For the floor i believe i am not allowed to modify as it might be classed as flat flooring and i would be bumped up to pro class and i dont want that! (YET) LOL.

I spent some time sesrching last night and my A pillar down bars are actually a bit higher then others i can find gokd shot of! Only a fraction higher but thats good that i did not make it stupidly low my mistake! I believe my issue lays with the seat side brackets, i may have what omp class as the high profile ones so they must seat you higher up, so i got measuring last night and it seems like i can gain close to 15mm lower then i currently am now and if i adjust my eyelet i can scooch the seat over a small amount more. All these small things may just work,

As for the floor, if i am allowed i will weld my bar directly to the floor with seam welds and support the side a bit to keep the strength throughout but as its real thin floor im not sure on the rules or best way to go about it so i shall ask them the best course of action! They are very helpful even though i am not joined yet but they want to make sure im buikding to regulations so they dont mind me asking their tech inspector guys,
 
I did the passenger sjde seat rails today and i managed to get that 11mm lower l! So im going to try it in that side with my helmet on and see how i fair,
I managed to scooch it over 5mm aswel, my padding is 1" thick so i can get half thickness so thats another 12.7mm of room, so all these adjustments shall help and lastly if i still need room i will cut the drivers rails and lower them to now match what i done today.
 
While my suspension is now pretty good, im now trying to dial out a small initial turn problem. Whats happening is initial turn in or just medium speed driving doing a small turn to the steering the rear seems to continue straight and then follow the front like its reacting slowly or something,

So i went and modified some bumpsteer shafts i got from allstar performance and made stainless spacers so i got half size spacers so now i can fine tune it a bit more then before, this also means i have a wider range of adjustment since i can use all the shaft and not just a small amount i dialed it to have a small amount of toe in under compression and even less toe out under decompression, this kinda helped out.

What i read recently is that the lower you go the softer the springs become! Not exactly sure the reason but i can guess its because of CofG and spring being level or the higher the spring is, the more it puts pressure on resulting in a softer feel spring! So i have 2 options here. 1* raise the rear a bit or 2* get stiffer springs in the back!

Currently i would prefer the option of raising the rear as i am at my limit for shock to go higher in spring rate now, so i need the shocks revalved plus i dont know how my aero is going to effect it yet so i shall wait for that,

I plan to raise the rear up around 5mm and see if that has an effect or not but hopefully the small raise will give me a bit more strength in the spring again,

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Just wondering what this spacer actually does. Does it move the sway bar out and change its performance at all?

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No, what i noticed on my stock arms was the droplink was very angled and i noticed this even more when installed my ones on, so to bring it over to be more level i spaced the mount out 10mm, its not to do with performance but aimed at keeping everything true and to stop binding
 
Is that something we all should be doing with your arms/droplinks?
Not sure if everyones is like this, can check yours if you wish to see,

I am planning to have them made anyway to go in the rear arm kit and used if needed, rather send it as a full kit then its an issue and people have to resolve it themselfs
 
I should have known that you think of everything. :p:hellyeah:
I do try my best dude, after all if i am going to sell something i want it to be as easy to install and less hassle as possible for the installer and not have to WHIP something up LOL
 
So today i got my seat brackets deburred and ready for bending this week! These are FIA regulation 5MM thick alloy as apposed to 3mm steel!

The weight different is amazing as both sets (drivers and passengers will weight less then 1 side of steel units!

Omp steel ones a seat set are 5 lbs 5.8oz, 2 seats worth are just under 10 lbs 12oz!

My ones come in as a seat set 2 lbs 8.8oz, 2 seats worth are just under 5 lbs 2oz!

Tyats a good saving. Thats about 2.5KG of weight lost! 2.5kg is ple ty for seat brackets and i will happily take them savings gladly!

I also made the hole to my spec as I cgain 10mm roughly lower for the seat aswel which was my major issue on my drivers side when wearing a helmet! so i can test this out once folded

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What alloy are you using?
5083 H111, its the strongest grade they had in this sheet and is much more then I will ever see for seat brackets
 
Your cage padding by the helmet doesn't look to spec. You need the very high density stuff anywhere your helmet may make contact in most rulebooks. SFI 45.1
SFI 45.1 is 1/2" thick, mine is 1" thick, while it deems ok for SFI its not FIA as they require slightly thicker still LOL, crazy right! but i am allowed to go thinner on the cage anyway, as for the cage padding we can stick to MSA rules which allows me to go down to 1/2" thick and I will be getting some from a company called safety devices who are MSA approved cage and safety builders here in the UK,
 
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