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Street/Drag 97 tsi

Specs & Photos Build Thread (54)

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If you're going to use a solid or even layered copper gasket use copper sealant on both sides, this will cure you. Otherwise use the Felpro composite gasket. Also be sure to use a flat file on the flange before re-installing to check flatness.
 
Thanks for the tip! I've used these Mr. Gasket copper ones a few times with good success. But this time I think I'm gonna try the oem mls.
The bottom driver corner stud definitely pulled out, stud came out with aluminum wrapped around the threads. The manifold head flange is warped right in that corner about 1/32 of an inch so I'm dropping it off at the machine shop for a resurface in the morning.
 
Finally got the car back together after taking it apart for that exhaust leak.
Manifold was pretty warped in that corner, so I had it and everything else resurfaced before installing new gaskets.

While I had the turbo off and more room to work in that area, I decided it was a good time to go ahead and tuck the scirocco on up into the core support. I hadn't done this before since it requires removing the hood latch but, I have a carbon hood on order and was gonna need pins anyway so it was coming out anyway.
I went with aerocatch pins and I got the off-road version with the steel pin. There was a thread recently over on link where a 1g got messed up pretty good from one of the aluminum aerocatch pins breaking on the track. Moving the radiator forward made alot more room, I purchased one of the AFCO shrouds with the 12 inch fan as I now have the clearance for it.
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Nearly had a freaking meltdown last night. Had the bumper and IC of working on putting that new fan and shroud on, and my garage help decided he'd put his paws all up on the radiator and gouged it... I gave him the day off today.
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Luckily there's a radiator shop in town. They had their doubts but were able to get the hole tig'd up. He wanted to use epoxy until I told him I was using a 19psi cap LOL. I wouldn't have trusted that for a second anyway, so it was try the tig or toss it out, pay afco $450 and wait two weeks for build time. Big thanks to Bob Ware's Radiator Shop in Salisbury, NC!
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Finally got around to swapping out all the bulbs in the car for LEDs. I didn't really care much about the looks, I was more interested in doing it to cut down on power draw. I'm actually pretty impressed with the way it looks though, much better than the stock ones IMO.

I had seen all the write-ups on it and knew the amber color of the cluster was on the backs of the gauges themselves. Like I said I didn't really care what they looked like, so I decided not to bother with pulling the gauge faces to sand em. The results were not very pretty. Everything lit up nice and white except the cluster which turned out yellow.
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So I ended up pulling it apart and sanding them after all. Turned out much better looking. Cell phone pics don't really do it much justice, as the LEDs kinda create a glare. Looks much better in person, though there are a couple places not quite as bright as others, nothing too bad.
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I also replaced the dome and courtesy lights, taillamps/brake lights, sidemarkers, plate lights, and reverse lights. That only leaves the turn signals and headlights with regular bulbs. The reduction in current draw is pretty noticeable, my headlights burn brighter now and don't flicker when the fan comes on.
 
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You really don't need to tear the gauges apart too much. I've done this to my last 4 DSMs (except with red LEDs) and have never had to pull the needles off, while sanding the face backings. (white one was for a friend)

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spyderdrifter said:
You really don't need to tear the gauges apart too much. I've done this to my last 4 DSMs (except with red LEDs) and have never had to pull the needles off, while sanding the face backings. (white one was for a friend)
Click to expand...

Very nice! I'll give that method a try if I ever need to do it again for sure.
 
The only ones that are a pain, are the smaller gauges. I basically cut the face from the hole the needles go through, and unscrewed one side so it would slip past the needle without the need of removal. It is a little bit of a pain, but it works. Then when it's all back together, the cut is covered by the plastic anyway. This eliminates needing to recalibrate the cluster.
 
Finally got around to upgrading the clutch. My Southbend SS Tz/B had been overloaded for a while.
Went with the Quarter Master gear drive from TMZ. Street flywheel, race friction discs.

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Decided to put a rear exit exhaust back on the car at least for the winter. I normally put an A'pexi N1 on when it's time to get the car inspected, then swap back to the side pipe.
The A'pexi was unnecessarily heavy though, so I figured if I was gonna have one on semi permanently I needed something lighter.
The STM catback seemed like a safe bet so I ordered one last Monday and had it by Friday. Fitment is good and it's much lighter than the N1. Haven't heard it yet since I just finished up the o2 housing a little bit ago but the videos I've seen sound good so I'm looking forward to hearing it.

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This is the o2 housing I just fabbed up. The one I had previously was just something I threw together quickly when I needed to get the inspected, and didn't realize till after it was all welded up that the oil filter wouldn't come off completely. This one clears just fine, would've probably been easier with pie cuts since it's 3"od pipe, but I wanted to try to get it in one piece. Used a 3" OD 120* bend with a 3.5" bend radius if anyone's wondering.

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