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98 TSi awd - Autocross Build

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Awesome to see a 2gb Talon in action. Keep up the good work and driving! I'm also torn about installing over fenders on my 98, but now that carbonetics has put their new molded "over fender" widebody Kit out I may have to do some rethinking:hmm:
 
You get some tire juddering when turning, is this diff related as your still on the stock diff?
 
You get some tire juddering when turning, is this diff related as your still on the stock diff?

Which video and where did you see that? Yes, I can feel it at times. Its a combination of things, including going into a corner too fast with too much slip angle. Scrubbing off speed the wrong way by over driving. I can't wait to get an LSD front diff. That should help quite a bit.
 
Was in the last video you posted, i guess in autoX you dont get time to set corners up as much so turning into the corner is quite fast and savage sometimes.
 
8/6/2017 SCCA NNJR and MSNE pm Autocross

Another double header, but at least this time, the MSNE event started in the afternoon. It made for a really loonngggg day, but I didn't have to juggle around with my work assignments.


SCCA - 1st in class, BUT I'm not necessarily happy with my performance. The car had between 1 and 1.5 seconds in it, but I couldn't get it there for some reason today. On a good note, I beat my rival in the Evo X by 4 tenths.




MSNE - 1st in class, FTD, and top PAX.

My best ever performance to date. First ever Fastest Time of Day. I was tired. Had been at the venue for 11 hours before my runs started. I didn't know what to expect. But, my first run was fast. The grip in this lot is phenomenal and the car just ripped. I'm pretty sure I could have broken into the 43's, but then the car broke on my 6th run. The car felt like shit on my 7th run and I didn't bother thereafter. I knew my times were solid so no point in risking something worse happening. Price we pay to have some fun.

 
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Well, as I mentioned in my last post, something happened to the car on my 2nd to last run. Unfortunately, it was my center diff that decided to quit.

I have since ordered a 4-spider center and a Cusco RS front diff. The center diff is in, but the Cusco will take another week or two as it's coming from Japan. (much cheaper than getting it in the US. Much cheaper.) I've also placed an order with TMZ and Jacks for the necessary bearings and what not and will try to tackle this rebuild on my own. Have been doing a lot of research and think I can handle this. I'll drop the trans next week and take it from there. Hoping to have it back together by Sept 16/17 as there is a 2 day divisional autocross at Pocono Raceway Park. Wish me luck! LOL


With that being said, I am co-driving an ASP MR2 on hoosiers this Friday and Sunday and a CSP miata on Saturday. (Yes, 3 days of racing and my car decided to break. How lovely.) I'm looking forward to it as i've never autocross anything more than my AWD car and street tires. Vids and commentary to follow. Look for a bunch of spin outs. haha
 
When you Tackle this rebuilt. Would you mind posting in depth photos and a walk through?
Enjoy the MR2 seat time!

I'm a bit nervous, but will do my best. I've put together a few motors, but will admit that outside of the passed few days, knew nothing about the guts of a transmission, outside of the standard stuff. LOL
 
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Well, after being a third party to many mishaps by highly recognized performance shops on my friends cars. I have come the conclusion even more now, that dong everything I can myself is in my best interest. And seeing you wanting to rebuild your trans peaks my interest and I would like to know more, and see how you do.

Eventually I would want to do this myself. Paying 3K for a trans build is nice one time after that I would rather learn myself.
 
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Well, after being a third party to many misshaped by highly recognized performance shops on my friends cars. I have come the conclusion even more now, that dong everything I can myself is in my best interest. And seeing you wanting to rebuild your trans peaks my interest and I would like to know more, and see how you do.

Eventually I would want to do this myself. Paying 3K for a trans build is nice one time after that I would rather learn myself.


I couldn't agree more. Very few people I trust touching my car.
 
I agree with both of you here. I now have a degree in automotive tech primarily because I don't trust anyone except 1 or 2 people to touch any car I own. I knew a lot prior to getting my degree, but so much more since getting it, like transmission rebuilds and high performance things. Plus I've always preferred to do my own work because I enjoy it.
 
I'm a bit nervous, but will do my best. I've put together a few motors, but will admit that outside of the passed few days, new nothing about the guts of a transmission, outside of the standard stuff. LOL

I just finished rebuilding my transmission. There are a couple of disassembly and shimming how to videos in YouTube. Search for "W5M33 transmission rebuild". The only pointers I can give are:
1. Be very careful to not loose the viscous coupler detent ball.
2. If you need to remove bearings be sure to use wooden planks or a soft material on the press. I learned that the hard way when I chipped a gear tooth on my intermediate shaft. Parts for these are not easy to find anymore.
3. Take your time on properly shimming the transmission. Use the proper soldering wire thickness and rosin core if possible as it's the softest available.

I printed the technical manual for the transmission and that was all I really needed to complete the job (aside from the tools).

Good luck!
 
I agree.

I see it as, NO one will treat your car the way you will, and put the same attention to detail in it. Mistakes will happen and at the end of the day it is my mistake, then of course it will suck but, I can live with it.

If it is a shops mistake then that I cannot accept, and don't feel as though people should be forced to accept/pay for that kind of product from a so called "professional". Rather do it myself.

As of now my 3rd gear grinds on downshifts only. Eventually I would like to fix this as well as upgrade worn components.
 
I just finished rebuilding my transmission. There are a couple of disassembly and shimming how to videos in YouTube. Search for "W5M33 transmission rebuild". The only pointers I can give are:
1. Be very careful to not loose the viscous coupler detent ball.
2. If you need to remove bearings be sure to use wooden planks or a soft material on the press. I learned that the hard way when I chipped a gear tooth on my intermediate shaft. Parts for these are not easy to find anymore.
3. Take your time on properly shimming the transmission. Use the proper soldering wire thickness and rosin core if possible as it's the softest available.

I printed the technical manual for the transmission and that was all I really needed to complete the job (aside from the tools).

Good luck!


This may come off lazy. But can you pot a link to the technical manual for the tranny.
Also what tools did you end of needing to buy aside from normal hand tools.
 
This may come off lazy. But can you pot a link to the technical manual for the tranny.
Also what tools did you end of needing to buy aside from normal hand tools.

I got it from Tim's (Twicks69) links:
https://docs.google.com/fileview?id...k3YTAtMWIwZTJlNzYyNDg0&hl=en&authkey=COjGqJAG

It depends on how deep you want to go but other than normal tools I needed:
1. 36mm socket for the input and intermediate shaft nuts. 1/2 drive to attach to a big breaker bar or impact gun.
2. Dremel, grinder or impact wrench to be able to remove those nuts as they are staked. I used an impact gun.
3. Staking tool (chisel and a hammer) to stake the new ones.
4. Soldering wire Rosin Core of 0.062" and 3/32" to get the shimming measurements.
5. Feeler gauge set to measure C-clip gap and thickness (details on repair manual)
6. Micrometer to measure the shims.
7. Hydraulic press
8. Bearing and gear removal set (bearing separator). This is to remove the bearings and gear set.
9. Seal removal and installation tools (or big sockets if you have them).
10. Magnet pen to fish the shifter rod ball detents.

I believe that's about it. Again it depends on how deep you're going. Most of the tools are rentals from an autoparts store.

Hope this helps and sorry for the transmission topic hijack of the thread.
 
I don't plan on touching the gears or gearset outside of the 5th/reverse whatever to get the case apart. Pulling the old diffs out, installing the new ones, and shimming those. That's it, hopefully.
 
Not going to lie.... this car was wayyyy fun to drive. Beat the owner by 4 tenths. But, it DEFINES not lifting as the ass end is tough to catch once its out... Small event, but still set FTD and top PAX. LOL With this win, I should be in the lead points standings for MSNE driver of the year.

 
I don't plan on touching the gears or gearset outside of the 5th/reverse whatever to get the case apart. Pulling the old diffs out, installing the new ones, and shimming those. That's it, hopefully.

Then you'll need only a press to install the bearings (unless the diffs come with them) c-clip removal tool and the rosin core soldering to check your shim specs. Fifth gear slides right out after removing the shifter fork wrist pin out. The viscous coupler is the only thing that's really a PITA to remove. Everything else is just swapping from the original and back. It's really not complicated at all just time consuming.
 
SCCA - 8/19/2017

Co-drove a buddy's lightly prepped CSP miata on street tires. He took the class win. I came in 4th. I've never driven a miata before and although I was somewhat able to drive the MR2 competitively, I could not drive this miata fast. Its the complete opposite of driving a DSM. I was able to pick up 2.5 seconds from my first to last run, but nothing to be happy about if you're not winning. The owner took the class win and took it by quite some margin. He was also happy that I wasn't in my Talon as we are in the same class and I'm quite a bit quicker than him. Maybe he set me up? LOL jk Mid-season points were posted this past week as well and i'm comfortably winning the class, double the points from the Evo in 2nd place. I should have my car ready by the next event.

MSNE - 8/20/2017

Drove the MR2 again. Fun course. Coned away the class win and top PAX. First ended up going to the owner of this car with a 53.3. I ran a 52.6 and 52.5, both dirty. Still fun I guess. I'll be driving this car again next Sunday.




Comparison video. I'm on the right.




Taking FTD and top PAX at the prior two MSNE events has pushed me into 1st place for driver of the year. Not staying clean on 8/20 has kept me in first, but only by 1 point. Hopefully I can maintain the pace. I'd love to finish out the year on top. Meanwhile, I'm still winning Class-B as well, but only by 2 points. This is the 3rd event this year that i'm not in my car and the class is excitedly chasing me down. LOL
 

I'm curious about the fitment of your rear flare right here. I can see the cutout for the fuel filler door, but you installed the flare significantly lower than where it was designed to be installed. Did you do this so you could keep a more "correct" ride height and not mess with suspension geometry but still get the aesthetics of reduced wheel gap? I'm installing mine soon and saw this post. Thanks in advance for any info you can provide!
 
I'm curious about the fitment of your rear flare right here. I can see the cutout for the fuel filler door, but you installed the flare significantly lower than where it was designed to be installed. Did you do this so you could keep a more "correct" ride height and not mess with suspension geometry but still get the aesthetics of reduced wheel gap? I'm installing mine soon and saw this post. Thanks in advance for any info you can provide!

More or less, yes. Also, the wheel offset needed to run 285 wide tires pushes the rim out passed the wheel well. I need the height to A - keep proper suspension geometry and B - keep the tires off the body.
 
More or less, yes. Also, the wheel offset needed to run 285 wide tires pushes the rim out passed the wheel well. I need the height to A - keep proper suspension geometry and B - keep the tires off the body.

Great. So looking over your thread, you cut the fronts fenders, but other than drilling holes, you didn't modify the rear quarter panels at all? You have no rubbing issues under full suspension compression? Assuming because of the higher ride height. So why did you cut in the front? Was it so you could run a slightly lower ride height or were you running into other issues at stock height?

Sorry for all the questions, just preparing myself for this fender flare install job the best I can by seeing what others have done. Thanks!
 
Great. So looking over your thread, you cut the fronts fenders, but other than drilling holes, you didn't modify the rear quarter panels at all? You have no rubbing issues under full suspension compression? Assuming because of the higher ride height. So why did you cut in the front? Was it so you could run a slightly lower ride height or were you running into other issues at stock height?

Sorry for all the questions, just preparing myself for this fender flare install job the best I can by seeing what others have done. Thanks!


The rear has more roll resistance. I only rub if I autocross at a bumpy venue and while in mid-turn. It also rubs on big dips at highway speeds. There are only 2 or 3 places that I can remember off the top of my head where I have to be careful while driving around. Otherwise, its a non issue. Keep in mind!... I run really high spring rates.

The front rolls quite a bit more so cutting the fenders is necessary unless you run stock ride height. I'm about an 1-1.25 inch drop in the front.
 
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