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Street/Drag 97 tsi

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Got some bad fittings from FPS. The rep I spoke with said it looks as though the o rings were cut during assembly, and that this is not something he's seen before. I hope not since my entire car is plumbed with their fittings. They of course are going to replace them.
Just thought I'd share to show the importance of inspecting parts before installation. These are to plumb my FF valve cover to my catch can, which is plumbed to my intake pipe. Probably not likely but they could've made it through the can to the turbo inlet.
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Got the replacement fittings in and the hoses to the VC assembled. Now I just gotta take my intake to the welder to have a -10 bung welded on.
I'm really not crazy about the placement of the can and how I had to run the lines, but with the battery still up front and the regulator right next to it I didn't have many options.
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It looks amazing. I noticed you wrapped your intercooler piping in a reflective material. Is it a dei product? I ask because I wrapped mine in some dei cool tape I had laying around and I'm curious to know if it's actually gonna help. Not that I'm expecting a couple degrees cooler intake charge is making much impact. Just curious if the temperature of the piping is having much affect on IAT.
I haven't got a chance to take any logs with the wrapped pipes to check IAT's but I don't know what I would compare them to anyway. I should start labeling my logs with ambient temps for reasons like this.
Do you log IAT? Happen to know if it made any difference?
 
Got my Overkill Fabrication quick release bumper kit installed. Long overdue, makes taking the bumper off much less hassle. Easy to install, good quality, I'd recommend them to anyone. Thanks gixrman!
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I also recently installed an auto meter shift light I had laying around. I'm using a relay and the egr controls in link to activate it. I was getting tired of hitting the rev limiter or short shifting LOL.
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I'm currently in the process of doing a basic suspension overhaul. The bushings on the rear of the car were worn to the point the car felt like it was fishtailing on washboard roads. Plus the overall ride quality wasn't too great either.

So I ordered Prothane's total bushing kit, new front knuckle kits for both sides, a set of 4 Koni Orange struts, as well as new strut mounts, coil spring insulators, dust boots and bump stops.

I've never messed with the rear suspension of my car personally. Other than dropping the subframe for rear diff work/ bushing install. So needless to say alot of bolts were frozen in their bushings, which had to be cut out, as well as both rear sway bar endlinks.

This has really slowed the process down, but I'm finally done with the rear. Which after driving it for a few miles today, has already drastically improved overall feel and responsiveness. I can't wait to get the front done and a proper alignment, it's gonna be like driving a new car.

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This is what you get in the Mitsu front knuckle kit (minus the prothanes). I didn't need new knuckles, but I did want new compression arms and ball joints.
The compression arms were like $162 per side from ExtremePSI, the complete knuckle kit however was only $129 per side? Seemed like a no brainer to me.

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Rear knuckle bushings installed, Koni's and a front lateral arm also pictured.

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Finally upgraded the factory ignition at the same time with a Dynatek ARC-2. Haven't gotten much seat time with it installed, but from the couple short interstate ramp pulls I've been able to do, I'm definitely pleased.
I was having some ignition breakup in the upper rpm range that didn't go away even closing the gap on BR8ES plugs to .018. Before taking it out with the ARC-2 installed, I popped in a fresh set of BR9ES plugs gapped to .025, and she went down the on-ramp so fast I had to let out. No breakup whatsoever, 35psi. Definitely feels faster, but the dyno will tell more. One things for sure, the engine definitely likes the wider gap at cruise. I intend to play with it some more as it seems I can go even wider.
 
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Picked this up on eBay for like $70. Fitment is pretty decent, had to be filed around the edge in a few spots. And the bolt holes were neither large enough, or centered over their holes in the VC. Took all of about 20 minutes to get it right, just gotta find some button head bolts short enough to hold it down.
 
Swapped my Crower 272s out for some FP4Rs, and installed some HKS gears at the same time. Haven't gotten to test em out yet, just idle time.
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Pulled my injectors just to check em out... And sure enough after about 1500 miles since the last cleaning, they already had black goo build up. I run e85 full time, anyone know of any additives to prevent this?
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Swapped my Crower 272s out for some FP4Rs, and installed some HKS gears at the same time. Haven't gotten to test em out yet, just idle time.View attachment 333769
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Pulled my injectors just to check em out... And sure enough after about 1500 miles since the last cleaning, they already had black goo build up. I run e85 full time, anyone know of any additives to prevent this? View attachment 333771

Run pump or race through, it's easier if you have a flex fuel setup.
 
Thanks for the tip. Gas does eat it right off, that's what I soak the filters in to remove it. I do have the flex fuel setup, I just don't like putting gas in it because I have to turn the power down LOL
 
I run 91 every other fill up. Helps wirh the goo. Nothing crazy just 2-3 gallons.
That's probably what I'll start doing. Luckily living here in NASCAR country we have a few regular gas stations with 100oct gas. I'm actually kind of curious to see what its like. Pretty pricey compared to e85 though, even 89oct is.
 
Finally got a chance to really test the new cams out today, and they're NASTY! LOL After looking everything over once I got back I noticed I have an exhaust leak at the manifold, so the car is down for this weekend. Hard to hear an exhaust leak over the side exit, but it looks to be leaking pretty bad. Looks like that corner stud pulled out.
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