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1G Gsc s1 vs Gsc s2? Should i go up?

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I was gunna say f*** it and send my 92 to jacks for their drag tranny.... which cost like 3800 bucks. For 5800 I can have the ppg box , 700 to Install
 
The 1g transmissions are the strongest, with the 90 gear set being the strongest of those. The 93+ transmissions are pretty much all the same in terms of strength.
 
1990 transmissions do have the strongest gearset stock, but most upgrades don't work in the 1990 gearset, like you can't put in double synchros and stuff, pm twicks69 (Tim Zimmer of tmz transmissions) he's the most helpful guy when it comes to picking peoples brains esp about transmissions... I have a 90 and he was telling me all about the who what when where why's about the stuff you can and can't do to them.

But, that being said... Yeah they're the best if you're keeping it stock.
 
1990 transmissions do have the strongest gearset stock, but most upgrades don't work in the 1990 gearset, like you can't put in double synchros and stuff, pm twicks69 (Tim Zimmer of tmz transmissions) he's the most helpful guy when it comes to picking peoples brains esp about transmissions... I have a 90 and he was telling me all about the who what when where why's about the stuff you can and can't do to them.

But, that being said... Yeah they're the best if you're keeping it stock.
All of the "upgrades" to a 1990 trans will be weaker stock parts. They may shift better, but break sooner. It comes down to all "built" dsm transmissions outside of a par or ppg are stock parts.
The strongest best shifting option is getting the early 1g gears faceplated by liberty. Tim has this as an option I believe.
 
I really just want double synchros so I can go up to 9000 but ur right since it would be replacement and not the stock welded part in the gearsets, it would be weaker... But I am going to disassemble it and send the gearsets and all over to tre for their shot peening service..
 
Where u located I'm gonna b selling my stock 1 when I get this built one soon as he gets it outta the car
I'm in ct, my car is a 92.... luckily the 6 bolt/4bolt lsd...... Ive been in contact with par, looks like I'm going with them instead of ppg
 
I'm in phila pa But you think a 1990 with shotpeened gearsets and a welded center or 4spider would be better then a rebuilt double synchro 90 trans... Or should I still get the rebuilt D.S one and eventually just get those sets shot peened
 
I'm basicAlly wondering now if I should keep my 90 and redo that with dif shot peened parts and throw a center diff in either get mine welded or turned into a 4sp or buy this d.s one (1990, 0mi rebuilt, welded center) and keep that how it is and sell mine, and eventually build that one a bit further so it lasts... Ahh decisions decisions...
 
I'm basicAlly wondering now if I should keep my 90 and redo that with dif shot peened parts and throw a center diff in either get mine welded or turned into a 4sp or buy this d.s one (1990, 0mi rebuilt, welded center) and keep that how it is and sell mine, and eventually build that one a bit further so it lasts... Ahh decisions decisions...

If you decide to sell you're trans in the future, I might be interested as long as it shifts well. I could always use a spare trans. Im local too. Lol.
 
Amsrn13 with a smim and big turbo your topend would increase dramatically going with a bigger cam.

Geeb exhaust housing size depends on where you want the powerband also. A 1.22 a/r will suck below 6000 rpm but haul ass over 8000. Where as your .63 will be great up to around 7500 then start choking up a bit. Its all relative to how you want to drive the car. I have a tial v band .82 for my gt35 but have been on the look out for a 1.xx for more top end. I could care leas about lag. I think some people forget you can downshift and get back into the powerband.
Fastest cam swap too date..... even manAged to ship out the s1s out to a member before FedEx closed
 

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They did , it's just not the same as the table that fix give you..... meaning like on the left of the graph it's like 2v 5v 8v 12v etc..... fic gives u 3 9 13 etc? I was just confused as to what goes were

You gotta do some math.

Start by looking at your FIC data sheet. I'll use my car/sheet for the example. Here's the specs for my 1650s:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


First thing you do is pick the column of voltages closest to your base fuel pressure. It's easiest if you're running 43.5psi of base fuel pressure, so there's less math involved. If you're like me and running a base fuel pressure somewhere in the middle of the two, you'll need to do some math to get approximate values for that pressure. For example, I'm running 50psi base fuel pressure. Since that's fairly close to being right between 43.5 and 58, I simply added the 2 values together, and divided by two. It's an approximation, but should be close enough.

So looking at the values in the 8v row:

2.70 + 3.67 = 6.37

6.37 / 2 = 3.185

3.185 is the approximate value I'll use at the 8v mark with a 50psi base fuel pressure. Do this for each row until you have a complete list of approximate values for each voltage level. Using the math above, my values came out to be the following:

08v 3.185
10v 1.945
12v 1.400
14v 1.085
16v 0.840

If you are at 43.5psi, you'd just use what's in the table for your FIC data sheet, and ignore the math above.

Second, since ECMlink's voltage table doesn't line up with the voltages given to you on your injector data sheet, you need to do some more math.

ECMlink's voltage table goes like this:

07v
09v
12v
14v
16v
19v

We need to figure out what our voltages are for 7v, 9v and 19v since they aren't given in the FIC data sheet.

To get the 9v value, I simply find the average between the 8v and 10v values. So:

08v 3.185
10v 1.945

3.185 + 1.945 = 5.13
5.13 / 2 = 2.565

2.565 would be my 9v value.

To get the 7v value, I simply add around 20% to the 9v value. So:

2.565 x 0.20 = 0.513
0.513 + 2.565 = 3.078. I rounded this to 3.100 on my car.

So, using all of the math above, my final list of values are:

07v 3.100
09v 2.565
12v 1.470
14v 1.085
16v 0.840
19v 0.450

I leave the 19v value stock, since you should a) never see 19v and b) your car is probably on fire or running like complete crap at that point anyways.

When you plug the values into ECMlink, simply drop the decimal point.

There's probably a much more mathematically correct way of doing this, since most of what I'm doing assumes linear increases/decreases between voltages, which certainly isn't the case. However, I've found on my personal cars this method works awesome, and is fairly straight forward to follow and figure out. The idea is to use the DA InjBatteryAdj table to get the injectors in the ball park, and then tweak them via Global deadtime in the fuel tab. My car is pretty heavily modded, and it idles like stock on 1650s + cams, so I can at least attest to this method working on one car ;)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/gstwithpsis-galant-vr4-1837-2000.482807/page-12#post-153630252
 
Last edited:
You gotta do some math.

Start by looking at your FIC data sheet. I'll use my car/sheet for the example. Here's the specs for my 1650s:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


First thing you do is pick the column of voltages closest to your base fuel pressure. It's easiest if you're running 43.5psi of base fuel pressure, so there's less math involved. If you're like me and running a base fuel pressure somewhere in the middle of the two, you'll need to do some math to get approximate values for that pressure. For example, I'm running 50psi base fuel pressure. Since that's fairly close to being right between 43.5 and 58, I simply added the 2 values together, and divided by two. It's an approximation, but should be close enough.

So looking at the values in the 8v row:

2.70 + 3.67 = 6.37

6.37 / 2 = 3.185

3.185 is the approximate value I'll use at the 8v mark with a 50psi base fuel pressure. Do this for each row until you have a complete list of approximate values for each voltage level. Using the math above, my values came out to be the following:

08v 3.185
10v 1.945
12v 1.400
14v 1.085
16v 0.840

If you are at 43.5psi, you'd just use what's in the table for your FIC data sheet, and ignore the math above.

Second, since ECMlink's voltage table doesn't line up with the voltages given to you on your injector data sheet, you need to do some more math.

ECMlink's voltage table goes like this:

07v
09v
12v
14v
16v
19v

We need to figure out what our voltages are for 7v, 9v and 19v since they aren't given in the FIC data sheet.

To get the 9v value, I simply find the average between the 8v and 10v values. So:

08v 3.185
10v 1.945

3.185 + 1.945 = 5.13
5.13 / 2 = 2.565

2.565 would be my 9v value.

To get the 7v value, I simply add around 20% to the 9v value. So:

2.565 x 0.20 = 0.513
0.513 + 2.565 = 3.078. I rounded this to 3.100 on my car.

So, using all of the math above, my final list of values are:

07v 3.100
09v 2.565
12v 1.470
14v 1.085
16v 0.840
19v 0.450

I leave the 19v value stock, since you should a) never see 19v and b) your car is probably on fire or running like complete crap at that point anyways.

When you plug the values into ECMlink, simply drop the decimal point.

There's probably a much more mathematically correct way of doing this, since most of what I'm doing assumes linear increases/decreases between voltages, which certainly isn't the case. However, I've found on my personal cars this method works awesome, and is fairly straight forward to follow and figure out. The idea is to use the DA InjBatteryAdj table to get the injectors in the ball park, and then tweak them via Global deadtime in the fuel tab. My car is pretty heavily modded, and it idles like stock on 1650s + cams, so I can at least attest to this method working on one car ;)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/gstwithpsis-galant-vr4-1837-2000.482807/page-12#post-153630252
You sir are the man :thumb:
 
I got my 90 fear,set shot peened should hold up to my goals . Haven't gotten on her her but looking forward to shifting faster this summer at the track.
 
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