Current (2015) known FWD dyno record? Searched..

[kiggly]

Update from a week and a half ago - we have 1010whp uncorrected, or 1009whp corrected here. This is at 63-64psi, the car ran 7.942 at 179.3mph hanging the revlimiter for 0.85sec during a pass at 60psi, which was 971whp.

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[keltalon]

Whoo wee is this auto if so that something like 1200whp manual. Great job!

Update from a week and a half ago - we have 1010whp uncorrected, or 1009whp corrected here. This is at 63-64psi, the car ran 7.942 at 179.3mph hanging the revlimiter for 0.85sec during a pass at 60psi, which was 971whp.

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[kiggly]

Yes, it is auto. This is exactly it was as it left the track. It is a #6 precision converter.

 

[keltalon]

Wow awesome!

Yes, it is auto. This is exactly it was as it left the track. It is a #6 precision converter.

Yes, it is auto. This is exactly it was as it left the track. It is a #6 precision converter.

Kevin are you running your new crank sensor and trigger plate? I am thinking of upgrading mine to the newer version for oem 6 bolt and would like to know what's the difference other than the sensor and why you felt that it needed a newer version. Thanks. http://kigglyracing.com/6-bolt-crank-trigger-sensor.html

 

[kiggly]

Kevin are you running your new crank sensor and trigger plate? I am thinking of upgrading mine to the newer version for oem 6 bolt and would like to know what's the difference other than the sensor and why you felt that it needed a newer version. Thanks. http://kigglyracing.com/6-bolt-crank-trigger-sensor.html

This was using the new sensor. There is nothing wrong with the old versions and no need for anybody to upgrade unless something gets damaged. The original plate version was easy to damage handling it and this is a large improvement, as well as it uses the OEM sensor so it can be fixed with parts store stuff if the sensor fails. The biggest reason for the change from the plate version is our electronics builder wanted to retire from making the circuitry that is housed in the shrink wrap. In the V2 style with the OEM sensor, the change from the fabricated to the billet version for the 12-tooth wheel is based on my personal time. I brazed every one of those support rings myself and it was a huge time commitment that kept me from developing other parts. In short, most of the changes were manufacturing driven and V1 to V2 was also a durability improvement. Out of our top-tier sponsored cars, we actually had all 3 variants racing in the 7's this past year.

 

[keltalon]

This was using the new sensor. There is nothing wrong with the old versions and no need for anybody to upgrade unless something gets damaged. The original plate version was easy to damage handling it and this is a large improvement, as well as it uses the OEM sensor so it can be fixed with parts store stuff if the sensor fails. The biggest reason for the change from the plate version is our electronics builder wanted to retire from making the circuitry that is housed in the shrink wrap. In the V2 style with the OEM sensor, the change from the fabricated to the billet version for the 12-tooth wheel is based on my personal time. I brazed every one of those support rings myself and it was a huge time commitment that kept me from developing other parts. In short, most of the changes were manufacturing driven and V1 to V2 was also a durability improvement. Out of our top-tier sponsored cars, we actually had all 3 variants racing in the 7's this past year.

Thanks for the update. Yeah I damaged one of mine back in the day with not being careful. Yeah I really like the idea of the newer version great job!

 

[kiggly]

Update for me, we hit the rollers and put down 1114whp for the end of 2017.

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[keltalon]

Update for me, we hit the rollers and put down 1114whp for the end of 2017.

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Nice job kevin!!