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Sun-Burned ’99 Spyder GS: Revived

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Top Replacement & Linkage Repair

In addition to cooking the paint, the sun had also cooked the top, so it was time to replace it, and replace the link arms that were badly bent. We ordered the link arms off the web and replaced them.

It would have been pretty straight forward, but the plastic bushings on bow #3 were missing. We found plastic bushings at the hardware store, along with longer bolts. Cutting the bushings at 45* made them match the arch of the bow almost perfectly.

IMG_3427.JPG


The new link arms worked well for 3 months, and then the braided cable pulled out of its retainer eyelet. It was apparent that this was going to happen repeatedly, so we substituted a soft link chain that won't be separating. The chain is enclosed in clear plastic tubing to keep it from kinking or rubbing on any of the webbing pads:

IMG_3429.JPG


We've never replaced a convertible top before, nor know anyone who has, so we found a how-to video on YT and ordered the full dvd, which showed the whole process step-by-step. After watching the video, we were convinced it was possible without special tools, so we ordered the top from the interwebs (TOL). Here are the pictures of the process.

The old top:

IMG_3369.JPG


The whole procedure took six man-hours, between two people. The toughest part is accessing the 4th bow, which is housed under the trunk deck. The secret is to loosen the 4th bow bolts, and then it can be moved up to sit on the trunk lid.

Removing the old roof:

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Positioning the new roof:

IMG_3373.JPG


The roof turned out great! One secret is to fasten the leading edge before the top is closed completely for the first time. This keeps it nice and tight. In fact, the first close took two people to make it happen. We let it stretch out overnight and by the next day it opened and closed just fine.

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We're not anxious to do it again, but I wouldn't hesitate to install one again, if the need arose.

Update: We wanted to make the manual roof button more easily accessible, so we made this modification.

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Quarter Window Roller Repair

There was a loud ""POW" from underneath the right passenger quarter window while it was lowering one day. It was the dreaded broken window roller problem!

Since we were undertaking the project, I decided to take pictures and write this up as a Tech article to help other Spyder owners.

Start by removing the outer window trim brush. Loosen the trunk trim strip and lift off the window trim.

Remove only three (3) bolts. The other bolts hold in the window regulator and motor, and those do not need to be removed for this repair.

(Sorry for the fuzzy photo #1) Remove these two top bolts:

IMG_3393.JPG


Peel off the vapor barrier tape to access the mechanism. Remove this bottom bolt, and 'pop' the regulator arm 'socket' off the window assembly 'ball'. You can see it here at the top right corner of the picture. You don't need tools -- it pops off easily:

IMG_3394.JPG


Remove the two (2) bolts holding the trim support and inner window brush to the body:

IMG_3395.JPG


Reach in and pull out the window glass and the attached roller track assembly straight up. You'll have to negotiate the lower bolt stud to finish removal.

On a workbench, separate the glass and rollers from the track assembly. Since we were going to be working on the window roller plate, we went ahead and separated it from the glass, so the window wouldn't get broken. You can see where the broken roller is supposed to be:

IMG_3385.JPG


After some research, it appeared that the only commonly available roller replacement is made by Dorman. They sell a replacement pack with three (3) different kinds of rollers, of which one will work for us DSM owners:

IMG_3389.JPG


We ground out the post of the old roller and bolted in the new roller. It comes with its own post and nut:

IMG_3390.JPG


The new roller is a little dirty because we tested it in the window track. It turns out the rounded portions of our window track was pinching the roller and probably led to our roller failure. We carefully bent the outside rails wider in the curves to prevent the binding of the roller. Checking for smooth operating window tracks is critical to making sure you won't have to do this repair again in the future.

We greased up the window tracks and reassembled the window plate with the window. Test the rolling up and down prior to reinstalling it. Now it's time to reinstall the window and track:

IMG_3392.JPG


To reassemble, lower the window and tracks into the body and align the three (3) bolt studs with the holes in the body. Tighten the track assembly bolts and then 'pop' the regulator arm 'socket' back on the window assembly 'ball'. It goes on easily with just your fingers. This is the time to put the key in and test the window operation.

Replace the vapor barrier and sealing tape.

Reattach the upper moulding support and inside window brush, using the two (2) nuts previously removed.

Replace the outer window trim and clean your greasy fingerprints off the glass. You're done!
 
Rear Sway Bar, Adjustable Rear Links, and Koni Adjustable Sport Shocks

Since this car was a GS, it did not have a rear sway bar, or the lower trailing arms with the connections for the end links. We contacted Stephen Miller and got a set of rear trailing arms with the end link provision. A friend gave us a 15mm rear sway bar off of a GST. Being that this is a convertible, I didn't want the car to oversteer, and possibly flip, so we stuck with the 15mm.

We cleaned them up and painted them with a rust-preventative paint. Thankfully, it was a Florida car, so the pivot bolts came out without a fight.

We lubed all bushings and threads with anti-seize, and everything bolted right up:

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We added a set of Whiteline adjustable links, and set them at about 75% of full extension, because at that point, they started preloading the sway bar. We road tested to see if any adjustment was necessary.

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Next, it was time to replace the tired shocks, one of which had all the subtleness of a covered wagon. After much research, since we weren't lowering the car, we chose Koni Adjustable Yellow Sports.

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Koni Knob.jpg

We started with the shocks in the soft setting, and gradually dialed up the front until it has a nice, crisp cornering input response. Because of the adjustable rear links, the back is firm enough for road sweepers. It's nice to know we can dial this up if we decide to use the car for an occasional track or autocross day.

And finally, into the shop for an alignment. Looks like there are some worn bushings it's time to replace, but these are respectable street numbers.

Spyder Alignment Readout.png


The difference in the handling of the car is dramatic; no more wandering in your lane on the highway, and potholes don't cause unintended lane changes. You can actually drive with one hand now and have confidence in the the way the car handles. But the biggest improvement is in the ride. We were blaming the seats for our numbness on long drives, but these upgrades are a huge step to improving the comfort.
 
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Lighting Center Section Taillights

The 'dead panel' in between the taillights on a 2G have always seemed like Mitsu stopped short of finishing what could be a more impressive rear end.

We decided to light the center section and read articles on here about a couple different ways to accomplish that. However, we had neither the time or skill to construct really cool, custom built, led circuit boards. So we used commercially available parts, and accomplished the goal for $75.

Below are pictures of the finished product. You can read how we did it in the How To section. Here is the link: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-light-center-tail-section-for-75.507507/

Parking lights on:

IMG_3653.JPG



Brake lights on:

IMG_3654.JPG
 
Lighting Center Section Taillights

The 'dead panel' in between the taillights on a 2G have always seemed like Mitsu stopped short of finishing what could be a more impressive rear end.

We decided to light the center section and read articles on here about a couple different ways to accomplish that. However, we had neither the time or skill to construct really cool, custom built, led circuit boards. So we used commercially available parts, and accomplished the goal for $75.

Below are pictures of the finished product. You can read how we did it in the How To section. Here is the link: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-light-center-tail-section-for-75.507507/

Parking lights on:

View attachment 318452


Brake lights on:

View attachment 318453
I've always painted the center section. But I'd love to see someone make the rear lights look like how the dodge cars have now with the tracing line. I think it would look awesome on our cars.
 
Quarter Window Roller Repair

There was a loud ""POW" from underneath the right passenger quarter window while it was lowering one day. It was the dreaded broken window roller problem!

Since we were undertaking the project, I decided to take pictures and write this up as a Tech article to help other Spyder owners.

Start by removing the outer window trim brush. Loosen the trunk trim strip and lift off the window trim.

Remove only three (3) bolts. The other bolts hold in the window regulator and motor, and those do not need to be removed for this repair.

(Sorry for the fuzzy photo #1) Remove these two top bolts:

View attachment 303007

Peel off the vapor barrier tape to access the mechanism. Remove this bottom bolt, and 'pop' the regulator arm 'socket' off the window assembly 'ball'. You can see it here at the top right corner of the picture. You don't need tools -- it pops off easily:

View attachment 303008

Remove the two (2) bolts holding the trim support and inner window brush to the body:

View attachment 303009

Reach in and pull out the window glass and the attached roller track assembly straight up. You'll have to negotiate the lower bolt stud to finish removal.

On a workbench, separate the glass and rollers from the track assembly. Since we were going to be working on the window roller plate, we went ahead and separated it from the glass, so the window wouldn't get broken. You can see where the broken roller is supposed to be:

View attachment 303017

After some research, it appeared that the only commonly available roller replacement is made by Dorman. They sell a replacement pack with three (3) different kinds of rollers, of which one will work for us DSM owners:

View attachment 303018

We ground out the post of the old roller and bolted in the new roller. It comes with its own post and nut:

View attachment 303019

The new roller is a little dirty because we tested it in the window track. It turns out the rounded portions of our window track was pinching the roller and probably led to our roller failure. We carefully bent the outside rails wider in the curves to prevent the binding of the roller. Checking for smooth operating window tracks is critical to making sure you won't have to do this repair again in the future.

We greased up the window tracks and reassembled the window plate with the window. Test the rolling up and down prior to reinstalling it. Now it's time to reinstall the window and track:

View attachment 303025

To reassemble, lower the window and tracks into the body and align the three (3) bolt studs with the holes in the body. Tighten the track assembly bolts and then 'pop' the regulator arm 'socket' back on the window assembly 'ball'. It goes on easily with just your fingers. This is the time to put the key in and test the window operation.

Replace the vapor barrier and sealing tape.

Reattach the upper moulding support and inside window brush, using the two (2) nuts previously removed.

Replace the outer window trim and clean your greasy fingerprints off the glass. You're done!
Well I'm out here fighting to get a busted glass out of my car so I can put the new glass in it and I cannot tell what the hell you're talking about. What's the window socket ball I can't find that to save my life I've got the three bolts out the thing is loose but It won't pull out
 
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Okay here's what I'm looking at I took the top two bolts out where you see the holes in the bottom bolt out the other picture you see the other empty hole under the wires. I can't figure out where the window ball socket thing is this if I have in the other two pictures? I have tried this thing tried to take the socket off the back all it does is spin. Please help I'm really close to getting this out I need my window replaced. I attached pictures of the three spots I took out the three bolts and two pictures of what I think is the window ball socket thing. Someone get back with me on this I need help ASAP.

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This:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/303008/

It's the second picture. The j-arm stright ahead, on the lower right. That arm has a socket that attaches to a ball on the window assembly. Just reach in and pop it apart by hand. The glass and linkage will not come out without separating this because this is the contact point for the power motor.

It is only accessible if you remove the inside rear quarter trim, because it is at the bottom. My photos are of the right side. You are working on the left, so it will be reversed.

If you're not seeing it, as noted, there are other threads on here with more removal details.
 
I see the ball thing you're talking about but it's rusted out on my car I can't even figure out how to get it off. I have pulled out with pliers stuck a screwdriver under it tried to get the nut off the back of it it will not come out. You say it comes off how it pops off? What do you mean I have to take the quarter panel window trim off? I took the trim that goes around to the trunk off I figured that out. I don't know what to do if I could just get this stupid ball thing off I think I could replace it myself. I do appreciate your help with it thank you I wouldn't have got this far without your post.
 
Yes, the quarter panel window trim does have to come off. That way -- once you open up the vapor barrier material -- you can get directly to the ball and socket.

If you have more questions, please pm us, since this is our build thread.
 
9. Rear Mitsubishi Logo

The giant E-C-L-I-P-S-E on the rear center section really looked dated and unnecessary. So we decided to update it with a Mitsubishi diamond logo. There is only about 3-1/2" of space below the keyhole, so I located a small logo online. We've got the part number, if anyone is interested.

One difficulty is that the center taillight is a curved surface, so we used clear Flex Seal and made a gasket to go behind the logo, and then applied it with silicone adhesive.

Here is how it turned out:

IMG_6918.jpg
 
10. Custom Exhaust

The stock exhaust on the car had repairs made to it with crude welds that were beginning to rust and leak. We wanted a free-flowing exhaust, but noticed that the standard N/A headers had a large dent in the corner of the downpipe that was restricting the flow, even before the exhaust system. A lot of research later, we located a stainless steel 4-2-1 manifold and collector downpipes, at DNA Motor, online.

We also decided to do a cat delete since with an 18 year old car, the cat could be a restriction.

In order to minimize the possibility of cabin resonance, which is common with aftermarket exhaust kits, we added two Vibrant resonators right underneath the passenger compartment. They work well and there is virtually no cabin buzz.

At this time, we didn't add a muffler, but we left space to do that in the stock location, in the future.

The result is an exhaust that has a rumble at idle, and has a loud, fat snarl at wot. You can even hear the exhaust burble on de-acceleration. The only characteristic that has changed, is a loud rasp at 1/4 throttle, regardless of speed. A muffler won't change the sound characteristics too much, but it would quiet the rasp.

Here are the pictures of the finished system:

IMG_6919.jpg


IMG_6920.jpg


IMG_6921.jpg
 
Did the boot for the convertible top come with the car? If not where did you find one? This is the first spyder I have seen one on

The car didn't have one when we got it, but we kept searching here, and other online sources, for an original one. It is harder to find tan, than black, especially in great condition.

We found this boot on CL from a former Spyder owner in AZ.
 
The car didn't have one when we got it, but we kept searching here, and other online sources, for an original one. It is harder to find tan, than black, especially in great condition.

We found this boot on CL from a former Spyder owner in AZ.
I would like to find a black one for mine. Awesome job on the top replacement. I have replaced and repaired a few convertible tops, some aren't real hard and others can be a nightmare.
 
That's an odd looking exhaust, but I kinda like it. Looks well built.

I would like to find a black one for mine. Awesome job on the top replacement. I have replaced and repaired a few convertible tops, some aren't real hard and others can be a nightmare.

I sold my Spyder about a month ago, and it didn't come with a boot either (imagine that). But a few years ago, I did find a tan boot in the salvage yard and even though my spyder would have come with a black one, I bought it anyway just to have it. I never intended on using it though. Since I have 10 years of composites experience, and I want to get back into it by making carbon DSM parts, I am thinking of using this old boot to make carbon boots for spyders. They will sadly be rigid, but I think it'd be worth seeing if the idea works out.
 
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That's an odd looking exhaust, but I kinda like it. Looks well built.

Thank you. It is custom built, stainless steel, for the car. We wanted to have resonators as early in the system as possible to eliminate the cabin buzz we all know too well from aftermarket systems. If you wait until the end of the exhaust to put mufflers and/or resonators, the pipe underneath the cab becomes a noise generator. The sections are made with v-band connectors, so any section can be removed and redesigned without affecting the rest of the system.

These Vibrant resonators did their job. The cabin is nice and quiet at all rpm's, without the highway drone. That said, I am putting a stainless Vibrant muffler on this weekend, at the very back, because, although the sound is nice and throaty, the decibels are too loud for discrete neighborhood acceleration.

We wrestled with the decision to route the exhaust under the rear axle, as opposed to over it. Even using 2-1/2" tubing, there was not enough room to bend it over the axle without contact with the body or the crossmember. We've run a 3" aftermarket exhaust on our AWD Talon without a problem, so, although we've never studied it, there must be additional clearance on the AWD rear crossmember.
 
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So, the Vibrant muffler showed up. The twin tips are actually mini resonators, to take the rough edges off the sound. With some tweaking, it fit into the original muffler location. The sound levels are now reasonable in town and nice and open at big throttle positions.

IMG_4155.JPG
 
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11. Battery Conversion To Side Post

There are several styles of front strut braces, with varying amounts of clearance over the positive battery post. The style we've chosen to run, makes a very close pass -- maybe dangerously close in the case of a crash -- to the positive battery post. The top battery posts also add to the clutter of the engine bay, for those of us who have not relocated the battery to the frame rail, or the trunk, so we decided it was time to address the problem and improve the cosmetics.

It started with a new Optima battery. The side post version is slightly larger than the top post models. Doing a dry fit, the battery was not able to get close to the firewall because the alarm horn was protruding, so it had to be relocated into a recess in the firewall, and the mounting bracket eliminated.

IMG_6401.JPG


Note that the negative cable attachment to the firewall was rotated 180* from its usual direction.

Next, the cable ends were re-clamped with zinc side battery terminals. After taking the picture below, the cable ends were more neatly positioned.

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Here is the battery clamped into position:

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And here is the finished job, showing the positive battery post safely out of the way:

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IMG_6467A.jpg
 

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12. Water Proofing The Roof

Since replacing the roof, we've tried different products to both protect it, and keep shedding the water. The product that gave the best look was Bumper Black. It had a nice sheen when dry and repelled the water for a couple of car washes. The problem was that when it rained, the Bumper Black ran, and made rainbow streaks on the windows and paint.

After researching several products, we found a marine product that water proofed the material, restored the dark color of the top when it was new, and help protect from UV deterioration.

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You apply it with a roller, sprayer, or brush.

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To make sure to have complete coverage, we did two coats; one side to side, and one front to back, one day apart.

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And we did water testing to be sure.

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We're very happy with the results.

Waterproofing was the final step, after tracking down the leaks that happened anytime it rained. Those leaks were not coming from where we thought they were coming from. Here's a write up on the ones we tracked down, and how we stopped them:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/sealing-the-most-common-leaks-in-spyder-roof.523613/
 

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13. Roof Bow Mod

There are some things about our cars that are details I feel Mitsu overlooked when they designed them. One that is a glaring example, are the "U" shaped roof bows on the convertibles. The tops of the U channels make dual wear lines on the roof, drawing attention to every support, and since the bows are thin, they allow some of the roof hinge points to poke up and make their own wear marks on the roof.

The solution is rubber door seal, with an adhesive back. We had some extra from our trailer project.

The first step is to partially open the roof, to release the pressure on the bows, and then peel back the attachment points.

IMG_6426.JPG


Next, position and attach the rubber seal.

IMG_6428.JPG


Now, re-glue the roof attachment points, with contact cement, starting from the rear of the car. You must work from this direction, because with the increased height of the bow area, the attachment points will be in new positions from where they were.

IMG_6429.JPG


We're very happy with the results. The dual lines aren't showing on the roof, and the hinge points are now not poking up under the top.

IMG_6578.JPG
 
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Glad I found this thread again, love the attention to detail you have on this car! Keep the post coming, I'm waiting for an after picture after the seals added on the bows.
 
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