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pksystems 1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD street build

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Since my insurance company wrote off my DD for a small dent in the rear bumper, I was down to my oil leaking ESi as my only DD. It's works fine, but will leak even more oil in summer, so I picked up a new used car for my DD. It's built by Fuji Heavy Industries (I've gone to the dark side) I've been doing maintenance on it, so I haven't been working on the TSi for a couple weeks.

Anyway. Ordered a bunch of new parts. This should be the last major purchase for this car, other then tires for the BBS wheels.

Mishimoto aluminum radiator
Fluidampr harmonic damper
Gates water pump
Gates timing tensioner
Felpro gaskets for pretty much everything
OEM gaskets for stuff Felpro doesn't make
Timing belt removal tools
Hyundai 6-bolt lower timing cover
Oil pan plug/washer

parts.jpg

rad.jpg

The timing cover was supposed to be Beck/Arnley brand, but the bag/stampings/decals tell me it is an OEM Hyundai cover. Part #0380265. It was like $33cdn on rockauto.com It's a perfect fit on my 6-bolt. I will do the Jafro modification to make this work with my 7-bolt mid cover. This involves cutting a good chunk of it off. I would have used the cover that came with my motor, but it looks like they didn't bother to use 1/2 the mount points and the pulleys cut grooves through it in a couple places.

The Mishimoto rad will get painted black to de-bling it.

No one seems to have any issues using Gates for a timing belt, or a water pump, so I decided to save a couple hundred and trust their timing tensioner over an OEM part.

Degreased my oil pan, hammered out some dents, hammered the flange back to flat. Scuffed the paint, cleaned it again, and gave the outside a couple thick coats of tremclad gloss black.

oil_pan.jpg

I pulled the valve cover off of the stroker motor to take a look at the insides. The baffles inside were loose on one corner, so I decided to clean up and use the Mitsubishi cover that was on my trash 7-bolt. Drilled out all the studs, and pulled the baffles. Degreased them both. I will media blast the outside of it, and see if my Tig welding friend can reattach the baffles. If I have to, I will purchase an aluminum baffle kit and get that welded back in. After that is done, I will reclean the valve cover, and powdercoat it.

valve_cover.jpg
 
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Set timing to TDC on my junk 7-bolt and started stripping it of needed parts for 6-bolt swap.

Pulled engine mount, lower cover and crank shaft sprocket (6 bolt one is cracked)

Set timing to TDC (It's close) on my 6-bolt, and removed everything on the timing side. The timing trigger plate has some hogging on the key so it can wobble a bit. I will have to order a new one. The crank shaft sprocket, and balance belt sprocket were both fused onto the crank pretty good. I had to do some prying with flat head screwdrivers, and a gear puller on the BBS. I will clean up whatever roughness was causing it to stick, and grease the parts when I reinstall them. Scraped all the old gasket material off of the block with a razor.

engine.jpg


I'm following Jafro's guide for my 6 bolt swap. Here is his video:



Here is my 2G engine mount, next to the 6-bolt mount. I've marked where the 2G needs to be cut.

engine_mount.jpg
 
Started working on the tensioner arm tool hole.

Jafro's video seems to work, except he says the tool hits a water pump bolt. I think he meant to say motor mount bolt, cause if you look closely in the video it is obvious he didn't hit the only water pump bolt in the area, and he did hit the tensioner arm. There is one motor mount bolt very close to the tool.

I decided to figure out where the hole should go, by comparing the 1G and 2G mounts. The 3 mount points are in the same position on both mounts. I traced the 1G mount onto some cardboard, and then installed the tool. I marked the angle the tool sits on both sides of the mount, and connected the lines.

I then put the 2G mount on the same cardboard, and lined up the 3 mount points. This shows you exactly where the hole needs to go, and the angle it should be going through the mount. The spacing away from the engine block is the same on both mounts. The new hole should be 1/2 a bolt thickness above the original 2G hole, and at a different angle. I will weld a bolt into the old hole (to fill it) and then drill and tap a new hole partially through the bolt I just welded in.


tensioner_tool.jpg
 
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Finished modifying the motor mount to use the timing belt tensioner tool. Don't waste your time using Chinese HSS bits trying to drill through welds/cast iron. :p

Eventually I bought some cobalt bits and used a masonry bit for the main hole through the mount. I didn't quite hit the angle I wanted, but it will work. My angle is a bit shallower then it should have been. No bolts are in the way. I did need to slot the hole on the timing cover bracket tho.

tensioner_tool_done.jpg
 
The lower 6-bolt timing cover doesn't fit around the 2G engine mount without modification. The 7-bolt lower doesn't fit around the 6-bolt water pump, so you have to modify one of them. I used Jafro's video to cut my new Hyundai 6-bolt timing cover. Use cardboard, and trim a little off at a time till it fits good. Tossed the Zaklee upper cover on for the picture. I should be able to use part of the 6 bolt gasket for around the mount. I will probably give the lower cover a coat of satin black krylon so that it matches the mid cover.

tb_cover.jpg

The 6-bolt cover only uses one upper mount hole, but the 7-bolt mid cover uses two holes. My 7 bolt engine didn't have this mounting plate on it, and I couldn't find it in any parts bins. I will weld another nut onto my 6-bolt front upper mount.
 
Ordered some more parts.

Topline 6-bolt oil pump
Turbo water lines
6-bolt flywheel inspection cover
Crank trigger plate
Turbo oil feed line (from head)
Sheridan 1G in 2G CAS harness
Passenger side inner fender liner
OEM balance shaft stub
Aluminum valve cover baffles (greengoblin)

Cleaned up and powdercoated some parts.
Timing cover mounts, and 1G water pipe. I did the water pipe with high temp "muffler black" powdercoat, since it runs behind the exhaust manifold.

parts.jpg

Filled, and block sanded the flywheel mount point imperfections flat. Made stepped dowel pins.

The aluminum valve cover baffles needed a bit of work. I don't know if the later model covers are a slightly different shape, but I had to open up the notches on the main baffle plate with a grinding disc. The valve cover itself I stripped with paint stripper, cleaned it, sandblasted it, outgassed it at 475F for an hour, cleaned it again, sandblasted it again, and outgassed it again. No more oil coming out. Had a friend Tig weld the new baffles back in. Ready for one last cleaning, and then powdercoat.

vc02.jpg

vc01.jpg
 
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Valve cover is done. There is a couple spots that aren't perfect, but it's more then good enough for a daily driver. After I powdercoated the entire outside of the cover, I lightly wetsanded the lettering, and cleaned it with methanol. I sprayed dupli-color gloss black engine enamel on a foam brush, and lightly dabbed it on the lettering. After the letters looked good enough I baked it at 300F for 2 hours to cure the paint.

valve_cover.jpg

I was originally going to do the cam gears the same color, but orange gears with an orange valve cover, and bare aluminum head behind them won't stand out much. I will do them in satin black. The engine bay doesn't need more color. When the sun is shining on the valve cover, it's pretty bright. :)
 
Scrubbed the block with a wire brush to remove any loose paint. Scrubbed it with acid etch cleaner/ nylon brushes several times until no more dirt/oil was coming off on the rags. Let it dry for a couple days, and then painted the block with Duplicolor engine enamel. Same stuff I used for the lettering on the valve cover, except this time I sprayed it into an plastic container, and brushed it on.

block.jpg

Pulled the second freeze plug from the right, on the back side of the engine. To help deal with global warming I'm installing a block heater. I picked it up off ebay awhile ago. There is no brand listed, but I believe it is Napa part number 605-3248.

block_heater.jpg

Installed block heater with a dab of "right stuff" around the lip to make sure it doesn't leak.
 
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Ordered some more parts.


The aluminum valve cover baffles needed a bit of work. I don't know if the later model covers are a slightly different shape, but I had to open up the notches on the main baffle plate with a grinding disc. The valve cover itself I stripped with paint stripper, cleaned it, sandblasted it, outgassed it at 475F for an hour, cleaned it again, sandblasted it again, and outgassed it again. No more oil coming out. Had a friend Tig weld the new baffles back in. Ready for one last cleaning, and then powdercoat.

View attachment 304960

This does happen from time to time but we have had several vendors try them in numerous cover and it's only rarely that the notches have to be changed. I'm not sure why this is as it really seems to have no consistency amongst the different covers. We know for a fact that it's not inconsistently in the base plates I make. In the end we decided to go tight that way the base plate could be opened up like you did if need as opposed to have gaps. The car and vc are looking great! Keep up the great work.

Kevin
 
This does happen from time to time but we have had several vendors try them in numerous cover and it's only rarely that the notches have to be changed. I'm not sure why this is as it really seems to have no consistency amongst the different covers. We know for a fact that it's not inconsistently in the base plates I make. In the end we decided to go tight that way the base plate could be opened up like you did if need as opposed to have gaps. The car and vc are looking great! Keep up the great work.

Kevin

No biggie.... couple minutes with a barrel sander in the drill press, and it dropped right in.... anyway... excellent product. :)
 
Painted the tensioner arm and modified engine mount. I would have powdercoated these, except there is so many machined surfaces it would have taken forever to mask them all off. They will spend most of their lives under the timing belt cover anyway. Packed the tensioner with grease, and installed both pieces.

Installed new felpro rear main seal. I probably should have just waited till I had this off the engine stand, but if you remove one of the stand arms, there is enough room to remove/clean/reinstall the seal.

Started trying to figure out which power steering bracket I will be using with this engine. According to the magnus 1g in a 2g walk through, the 2G mount should work. The mount that came with my car isn't a 2G mount tho. It's a JDM mount off an RVR. When I tried to bolt it in place, it hits the upper front timing belt cover bracket. I could trim that bracket, but it looks like there is another issue with this bracket. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/power-steering-bracket-jdm-vs-oem.417050/

The actual bracket that holds the pump, seems to bolt on fine to the 6 bolt front power steering/engine mount, so provided all the belts still line up with it, I'll hack off all the extra crap from that engine mount. This bracket fits fine around the the upper timing bracket; it should since both pieces came with this 6-bolt engine.
 
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Installed Mitsu MD092785 Balance shaft delete plug.

Installed Felpro TCS45483 camshaft oil seals.

Painted lower timing cover with Satin Black Krylon. Their satin black sure looks like full gloss to me. :p

Cleaned up and powdercoated a bunch of parts.
Alternator bracket, An-10 oil return flange (to protect aluminum from stainless bolts (galvanic corrosion)), New M12x1.25 Socket cap bolts for the cam gears, M6x1 Socket cap bolts and washers/locknuts for valve cover. I was going to use stainless hardware for the valve cover bolts, but the black on orange looks much better.

pc_parts.jpg

In case anyone is wondering how I powdercoat the heads of the socket cap bolts, here is a picture. Cardboard box, wrapped in aluminum foil, with slots cut into the cardboard to hold the bolt. The aluminum grounds all the bolts, and the threads are protected inside the box. The cardboard is unaffected by the powdercoat temps. The green tape is high temp powdercoating tape.

pc_bolts.jpg

I was planning on powdercoating the oem cam gears at the same time. I had them all cleaned up and ready to coat. I figured I'd toss them in the oven incase there was any oil in them. They don't look like they are cast. 20 min in the oven and they were smoking like crazy. After doing some searching on the net, someone mentioned that they are wax impregnated metal, and they would take forever to outgas properly. I didn't want to waste hours on OEM cam gears, so I gave them another sandblast, and painted them. They are drying.
 
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Finally decided on a color for the cam gears. I was originally going to do orange, then black, then I was considering gun metal. Settled on the first 2.

cam_gears.jpg

Time to get this engine in the car.
 
Started test fitting power steering pump, alternator, air conditioning brackets/tensioners. All pumps/brackets/tensioners/pullies are off the RVR motor that came with my car. The only 6 bolt parts in the pics are the engine itself, and that front engine mount.

I want to cut down the 6 bolt front engine mount, and I needed to verify which parts are not needed. Pretty sure I know what can be cut by comparing to the RVR mount I have. The RVR mount doesn't fit around the timing belt cover.

Does anyone know what the stud the yellow arrow is pointing to is for on a 6 bolt? I plan to cut it and the pink arrow sections off.

accesories.jpg

Next up, my modified engine mount, timing belt tensioner tool hole is blocked by the lip that the yellow arrow is pointing to. I need to trim it down to the blue sharpie line to be able to use the tool. Can someone confirm it's only purpose is for tensioning the a/c belt? And I definitely have the wrong adjustment bolt in there?

ac.jpg
 
Powdercoated some parts.

Transmission mounts.

trans_mounts.jpg

Modified 6-bolt front engine mount.
Modified dipstick tube (added tab for spring)
Downpipe support bracket.

dipstick.jpg
 
Finished assembling/sealing the transmission.

Engine/trans is going in tomorrow.

trans.jpg

Picked up some DEi Titanium exhaust wrap at a garage sale to wrap my water pipe with. Some of the race guys on here say insulating that pipe will help keep cooler temperatures, so while I have the pipe out, I'll give it a shot.
 
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Mated transmission to engine and installed them. Had to pull tonnes of crap off the engine and it took forever to get it in.

installed.jpg

The front roll stop doesn't look right to me. The bushing section has a huge hole, but the metal bracket that bolts to the transmission takes a bolt ~1/2 the size. I didn't see a bushing in the service manual, but I'm pretty sure there should be a sleeve or something in there. I've seen others mention this when comparing to aftermarket roll stops. I will make a sleeve insert to get rid of all the slop.

Energy suspension front/rear roll stop inserts have been installed.

front_rollstop.jpg
 
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Made a bushing for the front roll stop. I don't think it really matters since the sleeve in the rubber bushing has "teeth" that basically chew into the metal bracket on the transmission. Metal tubing from the scrap bin, filled in with epoxy/carbon fiber offcuts, then hole drilled through it.

roll_stop.jpg

Started loosely bolting parts into the engine bay to figure out where FPR, Catch cans...etc... will be secured. The FPR will be attached to the original 2G brake fluid reservoir bracket, since the 3G brake booster has the reservoir right on it.

I keep seeing mention of alternators dying from heat, so I started planning out a simple shield for the alternator. Currently still in cardboard state, but it secures to the main swing bolt, and the ground. These bolts are at different heights, and the cardboard easily contours to fit. I may have to get out the BFH and work the metal to fit. In the picture I have the alternator set to the smallest belt size (as close to engine as possible)

alternator_shield.jpg

I will be using upper and lower heat shields. I have an old upper shield, but it's not pretty. I'm still looking for a 1G lower shield.

Soldered new fog light plugs onto the car harness. One of the PO cut the ends off when they installed the FMIC.

Installed the drivers side half shaft axle.

Put new seals/breather on transfer case, and installed the transfer case in the car.

transfer_case.jpg
 
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Modified old 2g brake fluid reservoir bracket to hold the FPR, powdercoated, and installed it. I will have to flip the fuel in fitting to the other side, it's too close to the 3G fluid reservoir.

parts.jpg

fpr.jpg

Powdercoated shifter cable bracket, went to install it, and realized it takes bushings which I don't have. Made some bushings with a hole saw on some scrap aluminum.

Disassembled my GReddy Type RS BOV, cleaned it up and powdercoated it black matte tuscan. It was polished aluminum, and I wanted to debling it. I was able to reuse the GReddy adjustment tag. I did powdercoat the socket cap screws orange, and it looked awesome, but as I feared before I did it, the bolts are too small. I had to remove the powder to be able to tighten them. Installed a recirculating adapter. I am missing the original adjustment screw. The car came with a rusty old M6 bolt to adjust. I swapped it for a stainless bolt, and added a nut/lock washer to lock it in place.

bov.jpg

Transferred my alternator heat shield template onto aluminum, and cut/bent it.
 
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