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Street Build 95 GSX 800hp street monster Fp6466hta

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Does that hood keep things cool underneath?
That's the only reason I run it. I prefer stock but this one is growing on me and the way it evacuates heat is like nothing I'd experienced before, and with these cars at my hp level, heat is my biggest enemy at least it was for me.


And thx for the nice comments!!
 
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That's the only reason I run it. I prefer stock but this one is growing on me and the way it evacuates heat is like nothing I'd experienced before, and with these cars at my hp level, heat is my biggest enemy at least it was for me.


And thx for the nice comments!!
Believe me I know what you mean,I'm dealing with that issue now with my high hp setup,will be venting the front bumper and hood any day now. Decided to go with an RRE hood vent.
 
So I've been real busy trying to get all these issues worked out with the car and finally can turn the boost up. Been on gate pressure 19psi sence getting the car out. Here's a little idle video I did yesterday

 
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Beast car man, love your ingenuity. It's something special to see someone make their car how they want it. Seeing this makes me excited to complete my build in the near future. Good luck and hope to see you at the shootout!
 
Beast car man, love your ingenuity. It's something special to see someone make their car how they want it. Seeing this makes me excited to complete my build in the near future. Good luck and hope to see you at the shootout!

Thanks man appreciate it!


50lbs st 19 psi wow! that turbo is a beast!

Yup it's a bad mofo. I really can't believe how hard it pulls at 19psi LOL I've messed around with a couple pretty quick cars( I thought) around here and gottem covered but I wouldn't be surprised it's around 500 horse with it flowing 50lbs/min at 8500 and I've been swinging it too 9800ish.
 
I'm in the middle of my very first dsm build, and with all hopes and dreams it comes out like yours. I am using the same hood to help lower under hood temps!! Great job on your build it definitely is a well built machine!!
 
Thanks ^ good luck with your build.


Put some rally armour mud flaps on the car. Had them for my Evo x but just couldn't stand them but I'm sick of rock chips happening to my new paint. I think they turned out pretty good and not as nearly shitty as I thought they'd look.

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So I've been working on the car doing a couple things and thought I'd update the build thread.

First thing I tackled was to install the three new switches I aqquired to run my transmission pump, cooler fan and engine oil cooler fan. These are all on their own relay and the switches I've installed are controlling the low amp side of the relay. I really like the quality and flush installation fitment. They're blue LED and are a push in and latch style, the outter ring lights up when they're on and only the power symbol is lite when they're off.

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Next I proceeded to drill out my cig lighter so I could install my dual engine and transmission oil temperature gauge I picked up, it was cheap and looks to be made by the same outfit that makes prosport stuff. I ran prosport years and years ago and they always seemed to work good, I just hated them LOL. But when you're looking for a duel temp gauge your choices are limited, so I went with it, oh and the read out blue LED as well to match switches. So here's what I did to drill it out, I just machined a small piece of nylon in order to act as a guide for the drill bit and the hole saw. I used armour-all as a cutting fluid and it worked out great, just drilled slow to keep heat down.

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So next I made a cover to deflect heat away from my alternator. I actually found a guy selling a very low mile OEM unit and I grabbed it. I've always know the heat was the biggest issue doing in my alternators in the past. I had a life time warranty unit from carquest up hear and I'm on my 4th or 5th one in about 6 years LOL. Thankfully I know the owner of the store so replacements was hassle free. Those alts from CQ always worked great at first and my last one which I still have came off working and would hold 13.5-13.8volt all the way through a pull. But the second I seen this OEM unit for the price I had to grab it, I've alway heard they're the ones that last and putout high 13 volt during wot pulls. Anyway here's a pic of what I fabbed up. I used some 18 gauge aluminum and some DEI heat tape I had laying around. I used card board at first in order to get a template made.

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Next I wanted to get my methanol controls out of my glove compartment and my ash tray was looking like a valid spot and I had an idea to get it to work with the existing ash tray space.
So first I disassembled the controller as it was just a bit to big to fit and I knew it would if it was apart. I then mounted it into the space with some epoxy and black urethane. worked out good and easier to get to as well.

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This is where I mounted the control box I just used epoxy so tape holding it on till it setup.

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Looks great man! Your engine bay pic is awesome. Braided -an power steering and Mbc lines, turbine oil cap, bad ass manifold etc...




#goals
 
Thanks Detroitstroker!

So next was my headlight HID retrofit using OEM style lights and Morimoto H7 mini Bi-xenon projectors. Morimoto quality is very good IMO their optics are awesome very crisp cutoffs, even the relay kit, wiring, all top quality stuff, I was pleasantly surprised.
I like the H7 mini as it has a bulk head fitting built into the projector that fits through the original OEM light bulb hole in the OEM reflector, so mounting them is pretty easy and you still retain the factory headlight adjustments. Now you'll need a dremel tool to modify the back of the reflector so the nut and washer can sit flush tightening the projector in, it's really pretty easy. MAKE SURE THEY'RE LEVEL meaning your projected cutoff is level horizontally. It's easy to get them off a bit, so light them up(projectors in the headlights) before you commit with any JB weld (which I used as added insurance to hold projector in the OEM reflector) and do the final tightening of the bulk head nut holding in the projector.

I used the heat gun in a card board box process to open up and close the headlights, it works great. Gotta use common sense tho, have the box big enough so you're not pointing the heat directly at the headlight in anyway and seal the box up tight to keep the heat in. Leave the headlight in there for approx. 10 mins, wear gloves and work quick when you pull them out and the lense will pull right off. You may have to reheat the headlight, if it's not hot enough the first try. Google or youtube the process, it's pretty simple.

Here's some pictures

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Honestly Kyle I'm not sure I'll ever get the boost there. LOL I'll be scared for my transmission.

It's @ TRE right now getting the strongest setup Jon can build me. I gave in and sent the box in. The one in the car I had built in 07 and it just wore out and has to many issues. I lost a tooth on 3rd gear on just gate pressure(19*) this summer mind you the gear was already brittle from years of use and abuse, I was just lucky I caught it.

I replacing all the gears as well as doing his gear detailing and shot peening process.

So after I get that from him I might turn it up but not long LOL
 
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Honestly Kyle I'm not sure I'll ever get the boost there. LOL I'll be scare for my transmission.

It's @ TRE right now getting the strongest setup Jon can build me. I gave in and sent the box in. The one in the car I had built in 07 and it just wore out and has to many issues. I lost a tooth on 3rd gear on just gate pressure(19*) this summer mind you the gear was already brittle from years of use and abuse, I was just lucky I caught it.

I replacing all the gears as well as doing his gear detailing and shot peening process.

So after I get that from him I might turn it up but not long LOL
Looks like both of our transmission is at TRE. same build LOL
 
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