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My car dies cuz of rpm idle

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Red727dsm

Probationary Member
16
2
Feb 6, 2015
Los angeles, California
My car dies on the street cuz of low idle i have changed the tps the iav i have tried adjusting the biss and still it doesnt solve the problem my car has haved this problem for awhile please help havent been able to enjoy my dsm cuz of this
 
Grab a spray bottle with water or carb spray and spray your vacuum lines and around the intake to check for vacuum leaks. With the car running spray all the hoses little by little and the intake, and throttle body. If the car starts idling faster or dies at any point you are close to a leak from where you just sprayed then check that area out. It sounds like you may have some old hoses leaking or something of the sort. Its a start so you can enjoy her again!
 
Have you a checked your ignition timing? Did you adjust you tps and biss properly? Is your idle switch adjusted and is your fiav good? And spraying starting fluid around vacuum Lines Is Better Than Water To Test For Vacuum leaks, Your Idle Will Raise If You FIND A Leak.
 
It dies when i come to a stop honestly idk if im adjusting the biss correctly and the tps i took to my buddy he work fot mitsubishi dealer hes a mechanic he adjusted the timing several times like if it unadjusted and fiav is the same as isc right
 
DSM in general have a hard time with decel fuel cut returning to idle properly if some of the following are changed or you have leaks with you stock intake system.

You can have problems if:
Your emission system is modified evap purge or egr valve are removed or rerouted

Blow off valve return is not stock, the stock snorkle has a pipe that directs the bov return air to turbo intake and blends it with the flow of the incoming air. If that pipe isn't there it makes it more difficult for the air from the bov to get back into the intake system

If you have tuning ability some of the problem can be tuned out but you need to verify your intake system is leak free then determine if a rich condition or lean condition is causing the engine to stumble when trying to return from decel fuel cut.

Basically when your cruising and take your foot off the gas, the ecu cuts fuel to the injectors and looks for the rpm to reach 1200 rpm then looks at the maf scaling and fuel table to decide home much fuel to drop in because an O2 sensor reading is not available. If your intake system is different than stock the Ecu's guess will be off causing a rich or lean condition until the ecu can take O2 sensor and I beleive fuel trim data to fix the problem.
 
I've had a bum idle switch do this exact same thing on my Talon if I had either the A/C or the defrost on (uses the A/C to dry the air). The idle switch is supposed to kick up the idle to compensate for the extra load of the compressor. May not be it, but I'm throwing it out there. Also, is this an auto or stick? If it's an auto I've seen stalling issues if there's not enough fluid or the converter is junk, but it will usually shift like a 10lb sledge to the twig and berries... Everyone else has hit on all the other common ones I've dealt with, so just start working down the list and let us know what you find. Good luck!
 
I dont think its the crank pulley timing its been doing that for awhile already and i did timing belt and water punp and seals no my bov is recirculated my plans is to run a dsmlinkv3 so i could run my bov to the atmosphere but i wanna fix this problem moneypit you just lost me there LOL
 
Hey i just noticed you guys said vaccum leaks right but how about a boost leak would that cause the bad idling
 
A boost leak could basically be a vacuum leak at idle since the turbo isn't boosting.
 
You really really REALLY, for your own sanity, not to mention buttloads of unnecessary downtime and incredibly excessive expenses on your car; need to sit down beside a warm for and cuddle up with hours upon hours of reading up on www.vfaq.com and all it's many branches of Just pure altruistic genius covering every little nugget of info on these cars Inc tons of stuff the dealers are beyond clueless about unfortunately...

But these guys already mentioned spraying for bubbles to indicate leaks, as for setting your timing, idle, and several other maintenance procedures, your going to need to ground out diagnostic jumpers on the harness connector under the hood and adjust as needed..
 
But the turbo is boosting i changed the biss today cuz the old was wear out and i try adjusting it.. It sounded ok but i get didnt come across to the vaccum leak test
 
I don't know if you have resolved your issue yet, but you said in an earlier post that you were not recirculating your bov and if it is not it can cause stalling issues. Everybody in here has had good recommendations on things you can try already so start with the basics.
 
No it is recirculated still have the problem ive been off work late didnt get the chance to check for a leak but i drove it 2 days ago and it was running good but it started idling again..back then it would go down all the way to 0 rpm now it idles up and down
 
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