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AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

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I used 7" or 8" x 1/2" Grade 8 bolts for the rear on my Galant swap and will do the same for the Spyder.

Hmm. Just read somewhere that they are 5.5" and 4" long.

Where are you getting the bolts and how are you securing them ?
 
Maybe I used 6". I just bought them at a hardware store. I secured them with lock nuts. Welding the top side so they didn't spin would have made life easier but wasn't necessary. I just left a box end wrench on that was swung against the car to prevent spinning.
 
Are you sure you can't go in from the frame rail for all bolts ? Looks like you can...
 
You definitely can for the forward most bolts, I personally chose not to because I didn't want to disturb the structure of the vehicle If I could get around it, Hence why I chose to go in from the wheel wells. For the rear bolts I have no idea to be honest.
 
You definitely can for the forward most bolts, I personally chose not to because I didn't want to disturb the structure of the vehicle If I could get around it, Hence why I chose to go in from the wheel wells. For the rear bolts I have no idea to be honest.

Ok so let me get this straight.

For a spyder:

Front bolts for subframe use the shorter bolts from the Spyder chassis moved to the front location in the frame channel.

The rear bolts for the subframe use the longer awd bolts in the metal sleeve accessed through the trunk.

Is this correct ?
 
I'm starting my awd spyder swap this weekend. Prior to a few minutes ago, I didn't know I'd need the a/c bracket for the driver side axle. I've been reading this for the past few days in spare time, and just got to post 355 that mentions the bracket, and I'm a little confused by. I'm putting in an engine from a '97, but using a '96 donor. Do I still need the bracket?
 
It has been a while since I did my swap, but there is a place I found that sells a spacer specific for that. I will try and see if I can find it and if so I'll post it here. It was only like a $5 or $10 piece, but washers should work just as good though as long as it is around the same dimension.
 
I just starting my AWD Spyder conversion and didn't want to cut the rear bracing to get to the back left subframe bolt. Turns out with a decent pry bar, and a touch of grinding on the weld mine had on the fender tab, it is possible to get enough flex for the bar and plate to move out of the way.

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Ha.... I knew there had to be a way. I had somewhat thought this, but didn't act upon looking to see if it could be done. This, I think is the way I'll be trying before making a final decision to cut the brace.
 
You can tell I am finishing up my swap when I am asking about a spare tire ;) Has anyone adapted GSX truck spacer plastic trays in their Spyder? If not, how did you deal with the larger spare?


I actually did this with the driver side tray last year just for extra storage I guess, as well as for when I got to do this swap. I had to cut the plastic some, but it turned out fairly decent. I'll post a pic when I get the chance. I don't remember if I took a pic when I did it, but I'm assuming I did since I document everything on this car for future reference. If not, I'll snap a pic and post that. Will be redoing it again though and try to make it a bit better, mainly because I want the full size spare.
 
There actually doesn't need to be an A/C bracket (or any bracket for that matter) there at all, threading just one of the bolts into the back of the block is fine. That bracket doesn't ever see any torsional loads and, if it does, you've got bigger problems. It's only there as a place to hold the longer CV on the driver side, I've worked on 2g's that didn't even have it bolted to the block at all with no problems. I don't recommend that but just getting a single bolt into the block will suffice.

...or you can can do what you were originally doing for peace of mind. From someone who's done the swap (2009) and has multiple track passes and 25k miles on the AWD drivetrain, I only run a single bolt to the back of the block and have never had an issue.
 
I got the entire back section finished last night. Everything works including the fuel gauge. The wiring went smoother than I thought, even with it being a Spyder. And whoever it was in this thread mentioned fishing the fuel tank strap bolts through holes with a piece a solder so no cuts were needed is awesome. I did mine like that and it worked out perfectly.
 
From someone who's done the swap (2009) and has multiple track passes and 25k miles on the AWD drivetrain
Hey gofer, not sure if this was posted somewhere but what size bolts did you use for the subframe? I'd rather just pick them up from the hardware store than pull them from my donor.
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Hey gofer, not sure if this was posted somewhere but what size bolts did you use for the subframe? I'd rather just pick them up from the hardware store than pull them from my donor.
Hmm. Just read somewhere that they are 5.5" and 4" long.

Alright, I plan on using these dimensions and will report back.
Front - 4" x 1/2"
Rear - 5.5" x 1/2" (maybe 6")

My swap is currently underway :thumb: tank bolts are in, need to drop in the subframe bolts next.
 
Shit. Sorry, I saw this and had every intention of measuring the stock subframe bolts I've got in storage. If you wait until tomorrow I can check them with a caliper and get the lengths exact?
 
sh**. Sorry, I saw this and had every intention of measuring the stock subframe bolts I've got in storage. If you wait until tomorrow I can check them with a caliper and get the lengths exact?
No problem man. Yeah that would be great if you could, thanks!
 
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