The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

Street Build 99 GST 68HTA Build with $$ Breakdown

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

usmcjay

10+ Year Contributor
112
11
Aug 21, 2010
DeLand, Florida
I am building this car around the 68HTA turbo with plenty of room to upgrade if I decide to do so. Im looking for 400 plus hp with good handling and descent stopping power. If it all goes good I may end up making this a drag car. My main motivation for this car right now is to beat my little brothers honda in a 1/4 mile run. (i will upload a video of this civic later). Here is what I have so far. This started out as a budget build but then things got crazy.

Head:
7 bolt ported and polished.
Supertech valves
Brian crower springs and titanium retainers. $199
stock cams
Topline lifters. $99
GSC Viton valve stem seals. $14.50
ARP head stud kit. $117.99
OEM head gasket kit. $254

Block:
Wiseco forget pistons, standard size. $445
Manley H beam rods. $ 330
stock crank.
BSE.
New oem oil pump. $254.60
New oem timing belt kit with gates racing timing belt and gem water pump. $559

Transmission:
South Bend clutch kit. ss w/TZ dick. $468
Stock flywheel.
Oem clutch release bearing and clip. $36.78
Oem slave cylinder. $70
Oem master cylinder. $70
Competition clutch forged fork and pivot ball. $74.95
SS clutch line. $ 39


Fuel:
OEM fuel filter. $21.69
Walbro 255 with install kit. $96
Aeromotive FPR kit. $93 used


Bolt on:
68HTA turbo bundle. (fp manifold, manifold studs, 1g oil feed line, o2 housing gasket, turbo oil filter) $1328
FP Blue oil drain tube. $55
ported O2 housing. $90
Mishimoto Rad with stock fans (no modification) $240
Oem alternator. $304.97
Fluidampr crank pulley. $306.48
VRSF FMIC. $ 364.99


Misc:
Oem radiator cap. $11.73
Oem Thermostat kit. $25.09
1g BOV. $33
OFH light relief spring. $3.49
AEM wideband. $100 used
Oem non cruise control cable. $48.51
Gates racing ac belt. $32.45
Gates racing alternator belt. $32.95
Gates racing power steering belt. $29.95
Denso O2 sensors. $64.40
NGK BR7ES. $12
NGK wires. $57.95
Silicone coolant hose kit. $93 cdn
Prothane motor mounts.$ 71.95
ACL tri-metal Bearings. $69.99
ACL tri-metal rod bearings. $40.99

I still have a few more items to buy to include some suspension parts, brake kit, injectors and exhaust etc. As far as tuning go I'm going to use the stock maf and ECU flash. I have also been looking at speed density to replace the maf. I only put the prices up to give some guys an idea of how little things can add up to more than what you initially wanted to spend.
 
20150721_154630_resized.jpg
20150829_162652_resized.jpg
20151024_203317_resized.jpg
20151018_194824_resized.jpg
20151025_125630_resized.jpg
 
VRSF FMIC install. Didn't have to modify the stock fans everything fit perfectly.
20151027_134201_resized.jpg
20151027_134215_resized.jpg
20151027_134152_resized.jpg
 
I had a few set backs after putting my engine back together. The gates racing timing belt starting ripping after only 100 miles so i replaced it with an OEM belt. I was getting code P0400 random misfire so I replaced the crank position sensor while changing the timing belt and solved my issue. Along with the gates belt cracking up, the machine shop didn't tension the belt correctly which caused it to skip two tooth which robbed me of a lot of power. Dyno results coming soon!!
 
Another major issue developed on the dyno. It appears that the car was running too rich for too long when they switched to speed density causing gas or exhaust gasses to mix with the oil somehow. This resulted in rod knock because when I checked the oil it flowed like water on my hand and smell like gas. Im checking the crank today hopefully I only have to change the bearings.
 
General rule of thumb for me is always do a timing belt job yourself. Shops and techs don't seem to use the necessary procedures either tensioning the pulleys (which has to be done with an in-lb beam type torque wrench and pulley adapter) and measuring the auto tensioner to spec. They also don't use torque specs for the most part. That can result in disaster for jobs such as timing.
 
General rule of thumb for me is always do a timing belt job yourself. Shops and techs don't seem to use the necessary procedures either tensioning the pulleys (which has to be done with an in-lb beam type torque wrench and pulley adapter) and measuring the auto tensioner to spec. They also don't use torque specs for the most part. That can result in disaster for jobs such as timing.
Lesson learned!! Im picking up a extra engine and practice taking it apart and putting it back together.
 
So I am contemplating on a 68hta also, you had no issues with the stock fans with the J pipe? Iv heard that it hits, and if so I will be staying with a 16g.

Also any vids of younger bros civ? It must be quick if your doing all this. You do you just want to straight punish him?

Any who nice project i likey :thumb:
 
So I am contemplating on a 68hta also, you had no issues with the stock fans with the J pipe? Iv heard that it hits, and if so I will be staying with a 16g.

Also any vids of younger bros civ? It must be quick if your doing all this. You do you just want to straight punish him?

Any who nice project i likey :thumb:
Nope the stock fans fit perfectly and the J pipe I'm using is from VRSF. I ended up having to cut off about a quarter inch off the studs on the radiator where the smaller fan is bolted. The blades were barely touching the j pipe at times. Ill upload a vid of his car later on today.
 
Ok nice thanks. I may just go with the hta in about 2 - 4 months. Being a fwd how bad does it spin the tires?
Its not fully tuned as yet but on 15 pounds 1st and 2nd are useless on street tires if you get on it.
 
Sounds like a nice gst build , as someone who has been down the fwd route get some slicks and read up on some launching techniques , what did the civic run?
 
I'm surprised your stock fans fit with that setup. I'm running 16g with fp manifold and mishumoto radiator and my radiator fan hit the j-pipe bad. And with no heat shield on the turbine side it melted the a/c fan. I decided to run slim line fans on the front of the radiator and deleted the a/c. For me a/c isn't that important in the Pacific NW and it's not my daily. Nice build though.
 
Sounds like a nice gst build , as someone who has been down the fwd route get some slicks and read up on some launching techniques , what did the civic run?
Yea its coming along slowly but surely..I'm not sure what he is running, the car is out in Jamaica but I do know he has 420 to the wheels on a k20.
 
Long story short I ended up doing a 6 bolt swap and currently tuning it on dsmlink. I'm still learning but it seems pretty easy once all the mechanical stuff is in line. I feel like I had a lot more power with my stock ecu and 450cc..I will be switching over to the evo8 mod1 maps sp hopefully that put me in a good place.
 
B&M oil cooler installed. Pretty damn easy overall.
 

Attachments

  • 20160529_162555_resized.jpg
    20160529_162555_resized.jpg
    190.5 KB · Views: 92
  • 20160529_162646_resized.jpg
    20160529_162646_resized.jpg
    124.6 KB · Views: 65
  • 20160529_154429_resized.jpg
    20160529_154429_resized.jpg
    122.1 KB · Views: 67
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top