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Your most recent welding pics

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Was trying to make sure the feet don't warp so had to manually pulse it

I typically hit the corners of the foot pads with a 4 lb drilling hammer while it is still warm to flatten it back out. I have tried different things like bolting the pad to a blank pad prior to welding to keep it flatter, but with a beefy fillet weld typical on many structural feet, there is little that you can do. Just another characteristic of stainless.

I like the skid build though. Never seen on in carbon steel. Even the CIP and steam skids I have built are always SS square and rectangle tube regardless if the piping is SS or carbon. Just comes down to what the customer is willing to pay for I suppose.
 
^Me and my shop manager decided that the slight warp on the feet was done on purpose to give it the lock washer effect once bolted down to the floor ;-)
 
You let me know if you find Miller part number 951668 anywhere for less than $5179...
Whats the difference between 668 and 666? Are you spoiling yourself with wireless foot pedal?
 

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Whats the difference between 668 and 666? Are you spoiling yourself with wireless foot pedal?
The 666 is the regular 210. The 668 is the 210 DX.

A wireless pedal would be nice if it were an extra $100-200. But I'm not paying an extra $800 for it...
 
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First time welding. My hand is unsteady, but I think I am getting the hang of it

You need to bump up the current to get it hotter. Then, move a little slower. Pretend you are stitching. Move back and forth in an arc or half moon shape, so that you dip back into the molten metal. (ie if moving L to R, make the open part of the moon towards your right. Then just pretend you are drawing small moons half the size of a penny while moving ever so slowing to your right.

Everyone starts where you are.
 
Dynasty200dx love stackin dead smurfs
This is my first t3 collector ever, ive only ever done divided t4 previously. It turned out okay. I got the hang of the jig after this one practicing on some pcv at home.
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Ugh me want a new welder. What to do.
$2k or less. Annnnnnnndddd go!

Or a CNC router. I am ready to do one or the other
 
Nothing overly amazing or interesting just some 1mm walled steel tanks im doing for the stratos. Keep trying out my new gas lense kit and it seems pretty good so far. Just need to get some stainless jobs on it so i can try make pretty things.

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Nothing overly amazing or interesting just some 1mm walled steel tanks im doing for the stratos. Keep trying out my new gas lense kit and it seems pretty good so far. Just need to get some stainless jobs on it so i can try make pretty things.

Nice! 1mm is really thin for a butt joint.
 
Thanks i am trying to make it look nice but steel is hard to make good,
Its a pain sometimes, i managed to not blow through once this time around and i think the gas shielding lense helped keep it cooler with more coverage so that helped alot. It is pretty thin and its a corner joint btw not a butt joint LOL butts would be alot easier to do on this thin of material, but i knew what you ment unless you ment on the filler caps in the first pics then im sorry and yes you was correct on the butt weld
 
I dunno about now but he kept buying ones for under 1-2k when he should just have spend double for one good one LOL
LOL i only have 1 AHP and 1 tweco 141 tig. Razorweld 195 mig, longevity 62i, and hypertherm powermax 45. that's all i have :(

So nobody here needs anything plasma cnc cut? i can save you time. And you can help me afford a new welder :)
 
Anyone need any block off plates? One for a tial and the other set will save you a lot of paper towels!
 

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I meant the first pictures.
I kinda thought you might have ment that but was not 100% sure so accept my sorry for thinking originally it was abiut the open corber weld, 1mm butt weld is easy on steel and stainless its when it gets down to the .8mm or less it gets hard! Or harder should i say And when its inconal then its even harder still and that stuff loves to burn away fast.
 
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