The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Rix Racing

1722/2000 burn victim rescue/sleeper

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

How did you start it, tell us the story :)
Its actually just starting...I picked this up right before xmas...All Im doing now is damage control really... cleaning all the burnt crap out and see what Ive got to work with. Its pretty effed not gonna lie LOL
If youre not familiar with the area of Weed, CA, there was a pretty serious fire in september that took way too many houses. This car was parked in front of one of the houses. Im trying to stay hopeful and positive with this build, Im hearing a lot of negative things about how I shouldnt bother taking this on but I know I can do it and see the light at the end of the tunnel. Ive been into DSMs for over a decade but this is my first galant. The car was complete, with an oil siezed engine before the fire. So far Im just trying to finish up a customers 2g so I can get started on the engine build, goals are pretty modest, just an 8.5 cr stock 6 bolt, with an 18g turbo. I just wanna touch a 12 and be a quick sleeper that can do daily driver duty. Thanks for reading, hope to have some better news as we go
92BCF69B-82DE-46B5-BFC1-25701ECCFDB5_zpsoznv18nq.png
 

Attachments

  • CCA134E8-0A95-4EE6-8266-C1EF5193A82F_zps6lujurvz.jpg
    CCA134E8-0A95-4EE6-8266-C1EF5193A82F_zps6lujurvz.jpg
    59 KB · Views: 149
Last edited:
man your amounting quite the collection now already! just re read your supra build on cs.com again the other day....total jeals
Thanks man! See the Holset updates? Holsets are fun...and that setup was ridiculously easy/cheap to put together. But yeah my stable is definitely full, been trying to see if anyone wants to buy the 2G

So heres the thing loaded up ready to go
FAF40BCE-42A3-4C82-AA15-8DDF9D54A573_zpssjlizhdv.jpg
A130D735-7243-4022-938D-970D6505FB0C_zpsm42sswnv.jpg

....and the backside that makes you hurl...
B8475B72-10BB-4235-9646-F2BC157C6BC0_zpsm5s59jry.jpg

So first was damage control, inspect the damage and sift through it all
You know its a mitsubishi since theres a ton of tools in back... LOL
FB269B1A-18C8-453E-9575-18B8D3BA58C4_zpsbkn7gzop.jpg
695DE252-D7D2-4089-8909-551ACCB41F8B_zpsxvxpcilf.jpg
After throwing everything large out
2A7A615C-8CA4-4E3F-83DC-FBF49F79BD06_zpsxyyfi3ze.jpg
EAF79FE6-DF22-40D0-93E6-9DF5480BDB40_zpsavpxuag4.jpg

Pulled all the floor pan/trunk floor plugs, and let the standing water drain. Luckily it just started raining and the fire was so recent, I dont see any rust, super good thing someone got this car when they did.
ECF601BD-B2BD-4CD0-9F12-2303DBAD2973_zpsmhkydowt.jpg
So the plans for this are to just be a totally unassuming sleeper that I can comfortably drive anywhere. Real similar to Toms (turbo garage) VR4. At first I thought who cares how stock the engine looks, just the outside needs to be stock, but now Im really falling in love with the idea of popping your hood, looking stock as can be, then smoking someone haha. It'll be an 8.5 cr stock 6 bolt bottom, cyclone intake, 18g greddy turbo (got it in trade) Link, Possibly meth injection... I had my 1G running mid 12s with the same kind of setup, Im pretty much just wanting to duplicate that, just a little worried of the drivetrain strength so I gotta stay reasonable. Im looking at getting a shell that will supply all the body parts so crossin my fingers on that, thanks for reading everyone and wish me luck on this, I might need it LOL
 
Last edited:
I bet you guys think im nuts here huh...
AC6D1EDF-860C-4E99-9BE1-DAE66087D21E_zpspkfv7uly.jpg
D2FAB9C8-E9AD-4616-9F7C-101D17A84230_zpsgwgafr3r.jpg
62FE9C98-4184-4571-9582-17EBF28D31F7_zpsvmietcq5.jpg
366CD388-A7C6-409D-B29A-54BEE135908B_zpsrufk3i8i.jpg
2E5A6ED7-37E6-4666-8A1F-6EC78930032D_zpslr7ssqoa.jpg
2AC6522E-08F7-4AC1-9D15-DBEC4D4687FA_zpsymajtcwp.jpg


rear harness out
F06837AF-A9A8-4885-9AF3-B8C516D864CF_zpspkdpujvz.jpg
BE658207-C2D6-4192-882E-CAC872ADF77E_zpsakoeqlct.jpg
2AC6522E-08F7-4AC1-9D15-DBEC4D4687FA_zpsymajtcwp.jpg
776D4BC1-0F4D-4EA0-A476-6743FBE43BD5_zps3wmxzasa.jpg
0C9A71FF-C563-4147-A990-8DA9A28A6DA7_zpsumgoxzwp.jpg




Lancer seats
6AB72963-A0AD-4C2C-8159-E73AA6532743_zpsbbukte2j.jpg

Sent in the ecu for socket/caps for link
64429EC2-960E-445D-AFCD-53667710290C_zpsxu43rvbb.jpg

Then I got a phone call that a pick & pull about an hour and a half away had some parts for me. Off I went!!
353D8E42-9B95-44B1-BF8D-EAF842625A94_zps6nznnf7b.jpg

It was a black 91, and from the looks of it even has a white bumper that was painted black! Easier prep for me!
Sooo heres how she looked when I got there...
FEB6707A-CAC4-409C-B480-6399EA704356_zpsl5tnuhid.jpg

and then when I left
C0047D99-ECF0-47C9-8048-5907E68954D0_zpst6oxumee.jpg

11693CAB-D222-4CC5-907B-32E5B90F07A0_zps9xx5sco3.jpg

I got just about EVERYTHING Im gonna need here... Rear wire harness
28004297-0681-4251-AA0D-CF3C6E4FF14E_zpsiqm4tjvv.jpg

Tails, trunk lid w/spoiler, weather stripping, headliner, rear bumper, trunk carpet/panels, rear seatbelts, plastics, rear window ect. The damage was $250, not bad at all!

Today I pulled the headliner out, washed the whole inside and got all the black soot out of the metal, hoping the burnt smell starts to go away after all this. This is not a shadow in the foam btw, its burnt. This is how far forward the damage went.
D6E24672-7223-4AEF-A67F-636B83B832B0_zps2nhbotdn.jpg

EC7ECDB6-EAA8-4A31-9FDC-198DAABDE4D5_zpsxrqzupad.jpg

Starting to get a plan together...Next step is gonna be going through my spare 6 bolt and get it ready for this thing, pull the engine, pop her in and get the car driving, then sandblast all rust in the rear area, by that time the weather will be nicer and more paint friendly, do some self etching primer, surfacer/sealer, and get all this stuff white. It still looks bad but this giant stack of parts got me leaps and bounds farther.
 
Last edited:
Pulled engine/trans tonight. The gears in my head are turning... what mods will I do? How much am I willing to sacrifice for street manners? I know I want the thing to run 12s and be comfortable as a daily, and with my 1G having parts just fly from it for upgrades that its outgrowing, I can see a lot finding its way on this and a lot of my decisions being made for me... Well I finally have a plan... what is currently in my 1G is a stock bottom 6 bolt, 2G piston, NT Tb, delta 272s, cyclone intake and water meth. With that and the 18G turbo it sounds about perfect for this car... so I'm gonna go through my built engine for the 1G, and hope the stock bottom engine stays together long enough to make it's way into here haha I am planning on mid 500s before it makes its way here for its new home which should be 400whp tops. Thanks for reading and stay tuned!
64D9F0B2-796E-44FE-A194-BA44410A039E_zpsrwa4ixwq.jpg
 
Last edited:
So... havent updated for a while... Heres where we're at... I tore into the engine that came out of the GVR4. First thing I noticed was the timing belt was done wrong
E2C3CD64-4B14-4A41-85D7-3E44130A0D9D_zps9frs6pvv.jpg
It was very rough to turn over by hand... Was pretty sure the bottom was screwed, it had fresh oil in the pan, but the oil filter/pump were bone dry, thinking the prev owner added oil after it seized...

6A227A39-2125-4BA0-924E-7F85E069DA05_zpssg2e6h5n.jpg

Balance shafts were seized... then I got the head off...
9A48B7AF-60FB-456D-A084-03296D2214E1_zps7qmfecqz.jpg

burnt valve...

Notice the bearings stuck on the shafts, and the blue on them
30862033-1262-4227-8982-1724DA033A9D_zpsgoevq1cr.jpg

The parts pile just keeps growing...
226EA1DD-202E-43B0-BC18-A1118222B0F8_zpsevhg2lt7.jpg

Got the cyclone intake mani
D752025B-7FE5-4AAE-96AF-5BDB165828C0_zpsxypjr6f4.jpg

The crank has been polished, pistons are on the way, block is stripped and cleaned, things are happening finally...Gonna sell my supra and that should pay for getting this thing going
 
So it seems like I'm slacking on this thing quite a bit, and yeah I kind of am...but Ive been very hard at work getting things in line to make this car happen. I completely stripped/crushed my 1G, so that I can go all in on this thing. It is getting a ton of upgrades all at once to push it into the 11s. At this point the sleeper aspect will still hold true to the outside and as youre driving, but the engine will look far from stock. I do however still want nice driveability and a comfortable ride. So far I am on step 1 towards GVR4 assembly, which is going through the trans out of the 1G. Its a 92 TEL, with 4 spider center. The synchros are worn out so just gonna slap synchros/bearings in it, reshim it proper, and top it off with an EVO III 5th gear. The engine will be pretty much good to go, all it needs is balance shafts installed. I didn't take many pics cause my hands were totally dirty in a trans, but stay tuned, I haven't given up on this thing
 
Y'all ready for a real update? Chipping away at the iceberg this weekend, redoing the trans.
First off a moment of silence for my 1G
7C30212D-BF55-4B06-98B1-ABF9FD4AAA71_zpsazrlokt8.jpg

Heres the intermediate that came out
F9C0FFB4-225F-4C29-95DD-6D6937CC4EF9_zpsvusexng8.jpg

I had a 2nd gear that looked a lot better so it went on with new synchros and bearings.
6BA0E1ED-35FE-47ED-B8D9-8AFF98A8EC39_zpsohu8jtcc.jpg

I'm gonna try doubling up the 1-2 hub springs this time around. Seen mixed reviews but I'm there so we'll see how it works
32266AFE-FEAD-47E6-A4C4-6B138B0AFE1A_zpsdlotghtw.jpg

After hot tank
061F7D00-2BFB-4488-8A8B-FFD68D9CC834_zpswcepgyga.jpg

Funny to find out, but sometime in this trans life before I got it, the front diff obviously blew the hell up at some point
37555AE9-EE6E-4783-8600-5A0DAC2F8AC2_zpsp3lbzx0g.jpg
 
Last edited:
Continuing with blueprinting the trans and setting it up properly. When this trans was in my 1G, all I did was buy a used 92 trans since thats the best year, throw the 4 spider diff in, and run it. It worked as a used trans would, but the 1-2 shift was still a little slow (.7 sec) vs the .5 sec 2-3 and 3-4, even with the double synchro 2nd gear. After a few months racing, the 2nd gear sychro was done all together, and caught every shift. I already had a bearing/synchro kit for a 92 trans, so Im pressing all new bearings/races in, and doing the math to shim it to tighter tolerances. So far the trans is showing pretty loose compared to what I want. I should be able to order the shims and have this thing together so I can move onto the engine
FD977A2C-2BA3-45E4-B3F7-8DA530F54289_zpst7kmi7sa.jpg
6E4DADB9-06EC-453D-9B8C-8A1EB452483F_zpsv8386kqf.jpg
 
Going through the engine out of the donor car. Has about 3k miles on it, but none were easy miles :) Gonna install balance shafts, go back to a forward facing alternator, and fit the AC compressor with the cyclone.
Here is the BS that came out of this car, I had to laugh

5A099AB6-91B1-4753-9A09-CC902E727F64_zpslxx1brt2.jpg

Here is the engine being stripped on the things it needs done

0358CE2D-B74A-4B4A-825A-D13A689142A7_zpscz7vtpjg.jpg

I don't really like how the oil holes are smaller in this aftermarket front case compared to OEM, so Im gonna go ahead and use the OEM one as long as the gears check out okay
B73126F0-A629-43BC-BFC3-0A2EE07796A8_zpslz9hxuda.jpg
 
Last edited:
Why would you install balance shafts after they've already been deleted?
After driving a poly mount BSE car this last summer, Im wanting to run them for this car. I was always finding stuff loose all the time, so surprisingly enough, for reliability! Im only spinning 8k, so it should be ok.
 
The poly mounts were the cause of the shitty vibration, not the balance shafts. I guarantee that.

If you want reliability, you'll leave them deleted. Increased reliability is the entire reason they are deleted in the first place. For every revolution the crankshaft makes, the balance shaft makes two. That means even at 8k your balance shaft is seeing rotational speeds in excess of 16k RPM. No matter how you cut it, that's a perfect scenario for a catastrophic failure.

Good info here: http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=1197604&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=
 
The poly mounts were the cause of the sh**ty vibration, not the balance shafts. I guarantee that.

If you want reliability, you'll leave them deleted. Increased reliability is the entire reason they are deleted in the first place. For every revolution the crankshaft makes, the balance shaft makes two. That means even at 8k your balance shaft is seeing rotational speeds in excess of 16k RPM. No matter how you cut it, that's a perfect scenario for a catastrophic failure.

Good info here: http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=1197604&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=
Yes the poly mounts made it worse that's for sure, but Ive been driving BSE'd cars for almost a decade now, many with stock mounts. This is the first time I am actually leaving them in, hell Im having to remember how they all go together its been so long! Im aware of the pros/cons, that's why I said "surprisingly enough, reliability" because I get that its a failure point. But in this cars case it does make sense. Let me ask you this...When was the last time you drove a car with balance shafts? My bone stock talon is so silky smooth its crazy. And when theres a balance shaft failure I feel like everything else was right behind it. The engine out of this car seized the BS when it ran out of oil but it would've been less than a mile before the rest went right? I have been anti BS for a long time, but driving stock dsms, and this article really got me wanting to reconsider. I will give your article a read if you read mine :)http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/keep-your-balance-shafts
 
TLDR: My advice to you would be leave the shafts deleted since they are already deleted. Balance shafts are worthless.

I've seen the Jacks "keep your balance shafts" article. No doubt, Jack knows his stuff, but in this case I think his article is nothing more than a well thought theory. For the explanation on why I think that, just click the link I provided. It addresses all of the questions/theories head on, IMO.

Since everyone has their own opinion on this, I'll just share some of my own personal experiences. I've advocated to keep balance shafts in the past, but realized through my own real world experiences they truly do not provide any advantages.

I owned a 90' GST for over a decade. It had balance shafts, and did until the day I sold it. I never had an issue, and beat the living shit out of the car over the years I had it. End of that story.

Fast forward to story 2; just a few years ago when I picked up 1837 (my second Galant).

My parts from Rockauto got here today, so I started throwing the car back together. As I was installing the front balance shaft belt, something just didn't feel right. I grabbed the gear, and the whole shaft just felt loose. I decided to pull the pan, and see what was going on.

And the hits just keep on coming...
WP_000662.jpg

w0ZjIhjDdEXA5UOBuYXRUxGSZWrq_L8UaRk5MoU4vr0=w736-h552-no.jpg

WP_000671.jpg

WP_000672.jpg


The passenger side balance shaft bearing spun, and was laying in the pan. The balance shaft itself still spun freely. Somehow, the balance shaft bearing took out the oil squirter on cylinder #3. It was still in place in the condition shown in the photo. It looks like the bearing dropped out, and the crank throw smashed it into the oil squirter. The crank and throw look fine though. It's hard to believe the car was running absolutely prefect with all this shit wrong.

I'm at a loss. Just don't know what to do. I have no idea how long the car has been like this, or the extent of the damage all the metal caused.

You can see the whole story here: http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads...00&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=4&vc=1

This was when it all hit home, and I realized there is not a single benefit balance shafts provide that outweigh the possibility of them costing you a motor, a turbo, or worse. There are hundreds of guys shifting at a million RPM just fine without balance shafts. Most of us can live with any extra felt vibration (if any) if it saves us a motor. And if you can't live with that now, you will once you're digging bearing material from a BS that ate itself out of your oil pan...I promise you that.

You asked when the last time I drove a car with balance shafts was? Well, that would be yesterday, when I drove 820. It still has balance shafts, because I haven't had the motor out of the car to delete them, and I haven't had the time to do an in-car delete. FWIW, I notice zero difference between 1837 (shafts deleted) and 820 (has shafts) regarding vibration.

Again, my advice to you would be leave the shafts deleted since they are already deleted. Reinstalling balance shafts in a car that already has them deleted is a step backwards if you ask me.
 
Last edited:
Did some more work towards making this thing happen... Gaskets came in so I was able to close the engine back up. I was set on adding balance shafts back in, but after thinking about it some more... I said naw and kept them deleted. I can deal with a little bit of vibrating since it'll be on stock mounts with an insert or two. I packed the pump full of grease, and replaced the front case gasket that had been leaking a little previously. I also went ahead and drilled out the oil passage ways on this case while I was there, and radiused it a bit
D58460D4-BB13-4626-97A0-68436F62EB58_zpsv8f5vgb4.jpg
9AADA77D-0E7D-4768-8A24-B7057DEFBA15_zps9d1qbcau.jpg

The previous accessory setup on this engine in the 1G was a stock filter housing/sandwich cooler, side exit exhaust, and rear mounted Saturn alternator. It had a FFOH from a not turbo also at one point, which didn't really matter for the side exit, it was just nice having a cooler. This time Ill be keeping AC, and going back to alternator up front.
C6FA86FE-33E2-42F6-A536-031F37D5AB2F_zpsqi2ddjdb.jpg

It all went pretty good there, I was happy to see the AC compressor clearing the cyclone with no issues, a DSM compressor will not I know that!
Unfortunately I ran into a little roadblock here... Which I kinda foresaw, just been a while since Ive had a more "conventional" setup to deal with... I'm thinking here I will go back to a FFOFH just to get the car going, then I'll do a sandwich cooler once its needed.
BEC8D854-40C0-4037-8265-558CF41BD14D_zpsmgxjebtd.jpg
 
Had a good talk with TMZperformance. When ordering the shims, I had a few questions on the double spring 1-2 hub. The reply I got was very informative, that its a good idea and most of their trans have it, but I must use a shallow 1st gear synchro to clear the springs. So I added that to the order, and got the thing together.
BB370E70-80F5-40A9-9AC2-824CF4363B52_zpsnq7zumuo.jpg
CD988288-2FED-43B4-97E2-59CFEE15C1A3_zpshvtq7boi.jpg

So you know the penny trick with torquing the two end nuts? Well its a pretty good technique, but if the trans is facing up, and if youre extremely unlucky like I am, a penny can perfectly fit in this hole.
82CE8ABE-AEEE-48E3-AB21-2E1289C19436_zpsra36gjhs.jpg
FML. After shaking the thing and trying to get it to come out, I dove back in for the f***er. This was unnerving cause was really afraid of chipping the discontinued EVO III 5th gear, but I just took my time, lost an hour but got that stupid penny.
271E80C9-7814-4300-92E5-47A45597FA0B_zpssw7qquj7.jpg

and there it is
665D1E57-081A-4CAB-B19E-2102DB968BFE_zpsacdptegm.jpg

My transmissions are just getting better and better :) I hope this thing isnt too tight... It does spin with pliers...but by hand you just dont have the grip. Then again its just got its lube used for assembly and otherwise dry, case is cold, and everything will get worked in. Judging by the clearances it had before, thats probably why I couldnt get any good, quick shifts out of it. So final mod list on this trans are-
92 DSM trans, double synchro 2nd, Jacks 4 spider center, EVO III 1st synchro/5th gear, dual spring 1-2 hub, new bearings/synchros all around, shimmed for the < 600 ft lb clearances.

And... since I was there... I looked into what will be the next step after this...
E2FD791B-1077-4322-8284-A6118AB32353_zpsepe0myck.jpg

This is the trans I'd like to be building/running... But as now a full time college student, money is tight. This is a jacks trans I picked up, guy said had a broken 3rd gear fork. Its a 92, with EVO III 3rd, 4th, 5th (this is where I got my EVO III 5th Im using now) So upon insepection. Fork was fine, rail was broken.
11E1ECC6-3570-432A-84C8-AA40B16B7750_zpspje9v8fb.jpg

At this point its just gonna need the rail, which Im thinking I can just rob from another trans, the EVO III 1st gear, which Ill get double synchro'd. Im looking at about $450 and I'll have better ratios to play with.
So now, my engine/trans are together, its time to join them, and work on getting them in the car. I want this thing moving on its own power when I do the bodywork on it.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top