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Billet compressor wheels

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^ Never rubbed the center housing, but it definitely rubbed the seal plate....so there was definitely thrust wear on the face of the thrust plate, and the wheel definitely was loaded inward at some point.

Was your BOV working properly? Ever notice any full-throttle surge?

you must have failed physics horribly. first you say wheel hit center housing. which it didnt. now you say it hit seal plate which didnt. being in here is a wate of my time.

Not trying to hide anything, as stated there was damage to the back of the wheel.
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there is no damage to wheel that would caiuse tips to fall off. someone suggested the wheel hit the 68mm opening in the center section.(NO) the damage to the wheel is from the small thrust that exploded. its responsible for all the damage seen except the broken tips, which is still a mystery.
 
you must have failed physics horribly. first you say wheel hit center housing. which it didnt. now you say it hit seal plate which didnt. being in here is a wate of my time.
Not as horribly as you failed English.
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Where are you coming up with it not hitting the seal plate? There is obvious contact just outside of the area which contacts the compressor seal collar when the wheel is installed on the shaft.

If being here is such a waste of your time, I apologize....keep in mind nobody in this thread making you sign on or participate. I hear DSMTalk is a happening place these days...

there is no damage to wheel that would caiuse tips to fall off. someone suggested the wheel hit the 68mm opening in the center section.(NO) the damage to the wheel is from the small thrust that exploded. its responsible for all the damage seen except the broken tips, which is still a mystery.
So if the turbo was getting plenty of oil from the head, agreeing with what you stated earlier, I definitely want to hear your expert input on:

- What caused the thrust plate to explode.

- What caused the thrust plate to wear on the face, opposite of the way the plate is loaded during operation.

- What caused the wheel to spin on the shaft if it was torqued correctly and hit nothing.

- What caused the tips to wear / break as they did if they didn't contact the center housing OR compressor cover.

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Magic!!! Hahaha I just wanted to show everybody my experience with this wheel, not start a fight :). PJ told me I can send it back to him and he will send it out for warranty, we'll see what happens from here.
 
Ok, I've looked around at kinugawa and snail and kts... No one had any listing for holset specific billet compressors...

I did find this on eBay... The only one posted... Thoughts?

[ame]http://m.ebay.com/itm/190988687951?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1[/ame]
 
Even if there was, for the money you'd spend on a billet wheel, upgraded thrust, rebuild kit, and the time you'd have into all that...you could just get an HX35 or HX40 and not have to worry about it. Just my opinion though, Justin is the man here.
 
Sure- sell it and buy a HX35. You'll be further ahead. :p


There are upgraded H1 rebuild kits available, or if you're creative you can make a HX thrust plate work like I've been doing the past couple years...but trust me- just sell it and buy a 7-blade HX35.
 
Also, since there was no info on the eBay wheel I posted the link to, I messaged the seller for more specific info.... This is what he sent....

56 mm X 83.03 mm X 88.22 mm
The Billet weighs in at 87 grams
The factory cast aluminum wheel weighs in at 114.5 grams.
Difference of 27.5 grams = just a tad under a full ounce.
This wheel also fits 1 model of HX40 as well as the WH1C

- turbochargersystems
 
The seller is completely wrong- you can't use HX wheels on H1 turbos and vice-versa. The thrust collars are different widths...so putting a HX wheel on a H1 turbo will make it hit the cover, and putting a H1 wheel on a HX turbo would make it rub the center housing.

That would make me question whether the seller has any idea what they're actually selling.
 
Thinking more and more about ditching my HX35 with BEP housing and just building a billet 20g setup for my car.

Car is currently very competative on a standard 20g cast setup. Thinking the billet will give me a tad more spool and a litle more top end.

Antisurge housing would be nice as well.
 
Thinking more and more about ditching my HX35 with BEP housing and just building a billet 20g setup for my car.

Car is currently very competative on a standard 20g cast setup. Thinking the billet will give me a tad more spool and a litle more top end.

Antisurge housing would be nice as well.

I'm actually sending my turbo out to Justin today for a rebuild/KTS billet wheel upgrade. Both Jaxness and someone else made just under 440whp at around 28-32psi on e85. Spool should remain unchanged from a typical 20g. Can't beat that!
 
Those were my thoughts exactly.

Ill be going E85 as well here soon. Fuel system is ready, just need to tune.

I love my 20g for the street and im killing it during AX.
 
Anyone been on Fp's website lately? No more 3586 and no more 3794 no more 3786 no 6466tz. Replaced with xona turbo with the same comp specs as the 3586 and 3794 but kinda surprising the most popular turbos arent offered anymore in genuine garrett. I figure it's billet turbo related
 
Anyone been on Fp's website lately? No more 3586 and no more 3794 no more 3786 no 6466tz. Replaced with xona turbo with the same comp specs as the 3586 and 3794 but kinda surprising the most popular turbos arent offered anymore in genuine garrett. I figure it's billet turbo related
I just bought a dsm82 and it's still a genuine Garrett chra, with the new 82htz compressor from the zona turbos. I get 30psi at 4500 rpms out of a 71lb/min compressor.
 
More than that. Their non vehicle specific turbos have gone to a billet chra with fp's own ball bearing design.
I had wanted one of those chras and then i talked to marco at magnus and he changed my mind right quick. Said they see a lot of problems with billet chras. Guess they like garrett and PTE.

Props to them for makin 700whp turbos with stock like spool though.
 
I'll never understand why people spend so much money, time, and effort making these cheap ass diesel turbos work. They're not cheaper when you count all the stuff you have to get to bolt one on. For the same cost you could just buy a turbo that bolts onto your car and hauls more ass.

External wg
t3 manifold or adapter housing for dsm flange
feed/drain lines
new downpipe/o2 housing
new intake pipe
new or modified intercooler piping

Those are the things that need to be changed to run a holset. Even after you do all those things you're still running a turbo that was meant for lower diesel motor shaft speeds and is made out of materials that are for the lower egt's of a diesel engine under load. Basically putting lipstick on a pig so that it can crap the bacon out in less time than a turbo that is meant for a gas engine.

I'm sure this post will piss everyone off, but I just don't see the logic in using these turbos at all.... even if you can get the turbo itself for $200 to start out with.
 
I'll never understand why people spend so much money, time, and effort making these cheap ass diesel turbos work. They're not cheaper when you count all the stuff you have to get to bolt one on. For the same cost you could just buy a turbo that bolts onto your car and hauls more ass.

External wg
t3 manifold or adapter housing for dsm flange
feed/drain lines
new downpipe/o2 housing
new intake pipe
new or modified intercooler piping

Those are the things that need to be changed to run a holset. Even after you do all those things you're still running a turbo that was meant for lower diesel motor shaft speeds and is made out of materials that are for the lower egt's of a diesel engine under load. Basically putting lipstick on a pig so that it can crap the bacon out in less time than a turbo that is meant for a gas engine.

I'm sure this post will piss everyone off, but I just don't see the logic in using these turbos at all.... even if you can get the turbo itself for $200 to start out with.
What you posted isnt that big of a deal to a lot of people and to run a big turbo in general you need that stuff anyway. Plus bolt on hx40 you dont really NEED that much stuff anyway. It's all aprt of the upgrade game you go bigger and everything epse has to get bigger

The people that bi*** about cost of parts shouldnt even be TRYING to go fast, and by the way. I dont get your angle where you think gas EGT's are harmful to a holset. Those turbos were way over engineered and I'm pretty sire they hve inconel turbines. It's not like the turbines are made of soldering lead. And your statement about shaft speeds? The diesels tractor puller guys run double what we normally run for boost 60-70psi you think shaft speeds are still an issue? How about the compound guys pushing over 100psi? I'm sure a diesel can melt a turbine just as easily as a gas engine given circumstances. The only REAL difference is that the holset turbos were not designed for performance racing. The FP, pte, borg, and some of the garretts are soecific designed race turbos with complementing aero. but that doesnt make the holset any weaker for longevity, it just means it had different design intentions.
 
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