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Garrett & Holset Turbo Users - Your Oil Drain May Be Too Small!

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12an is a huge mofo, but is the same id as the oem 1g oil pan, at least the bung i have.
 

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12an doesn't strike me as the best option I've spend my money on. I did some measurements and it looked like it would be very restrictive, surely less restrictive than 10an drain setup, but still much smaller than the Holset requirement of minimum off 19mm.

Here's my 8 blade hx35W outlet

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the T6 adapter flange with 3/4 NPT threads

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First restriction is the 12an to 3/4 fitting - it's already 2mm less.

Then the same fitting on the 12an side, the ID lessens even more to 15mm

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And then the push locks - the OD of the 12an is indeed 19+mm, but what good does that do,

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when the ID is 15mm

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So by far the best option is the stock 2g drain with 17+mm ID.

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Exactly^

What is the purpose of buying all those fittings, cutting, and welding when the STOCK 2G return is larger???
 
You can port the -12 out.

-14would be optimal but it doesnt exist. -16 way too big.

For those using FF Turbo setups, custom manifolds, etc.. AN is the only way to go. Sure use stock 2g drain if you have a stock placement turbo.

Make sure the rubber line you have on your barb doesnt collapse and kill your turbo, after all the worries LOL.

Honestly as long as your crank case ventilation is adequate youll be fine with -12 or even possibly -10 as some are running.
 
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Also interested if anyone is running a stock 2G oil return line on a HX40. . .

Pictures if so?

What about oil feed for a stock internals 7 bolt with no balance shaft?
 
Drilled 7/8 hole in factory drain flange and pan. Tapped in ¾ copper pipe cleaned and fluxed. Soldered. Ended up with a 45 degree copper fitting soldered on after this as well. Been through several heat cycles. I'd assume if the solder were going to melt out it would have done so by now. Seems to work great. Also suggest safety wiring hose clamps so they don't loosen up and cost you an engine.


Not that I like to admit it but previously I just ran 3/4 copper pipe flared on the inside and JB welded on the outside to the pan. Actually held up fine for about a year, then started weaping. I used JB quick weld. May have held out longer with the standard JB weld.

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Just to follow up on this, the solder never leaked or caused any issues. I've also done several other drains using soldered 3/4 copper piping with zero failures to date.
 
Is
Exactly what I did. Works good so far, and less restriction that the 12AN fittings I measured.

I realize this is old but do you have pics? I'm doing and HX35 soon and I was thinking about going -12 AN but this thread is pursuading me to go bigger.
 
I realize this is old but do you have pics? I'm doing and HX35 soon and I was thinking about going -12 AN but this thread is pursuading me to go bigger.

I happened to find one I took during install back in 2014. It does not leak, and the -12AN hose barely fit over the stock cut drain. I obviously clamped both ends.

Using a -12AN fitting would be much more restrictive than this, based on my measurements. And this is cheaper and easier....
 

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So how would I go about running a -12an line off of a FP Green HTA? The motor I bought comes with a -12an that was welded onto the oil pan. I haven't been able to find a fitting that will work with the turbo....seems like I will have to custom make something.
 
This is what I use and it works fantastic! You can also substitute 3/4" heater hose for the stiff AN line. I feed from the OFH with pretty high oil pressure (80+, 25 at warm idle) and drain all of that out the -12 drain and Justin says my oiling is spot on for my Holset.
From RTM Racing:

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