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Questions for Justin...

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Hey Justin, i was cleaning my garage and found 2 turbine housings around. One is a Pte .82 T3 from a 6262 from a 62mm Precision turbo and also have an old mhi 8cm turbine housing machined to TD06h spec. Now i was givin a lil bit of thought about having the Precision machined to accept a HX40 or an HX52 (i have both turbos on a shelf) turbo. Also have around an HY35 without turbine housing and would like to know if the 8cm with he proper machining would work. In easy words, Can i make a HX40 or even a HX52 work in a .82ar T3 housing and a HY35 in a bolt on 8cm turbine housing from mhi??
 
1) Possibly. Only the HX40, however.

2) Doubtful, since the v-band connection on the HY is so much larger.

Don't screw around with adapting housings on the HY....it's literally as perfect as perfect can be in the 9cm T3 housing that comes on it from the factory. ;)
 
So your option. The car is a gst with hks 272 cams and all supporting mods. The cartridge is a rebuilt mhi with a 6+6 billet extended tip compressor wheel.. Yes that is kig compressor housing.. Not in the pick fp man, the 080 hot side housing and external gated punishment racing o2 housing. This is a street car on pump gas.
 

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Well im gunning for high 300hp. The motor is a jdm that came with the car. The person couldn't get it running that I bought from. After wiring up the Cass it fired right up but had a oil leak from a fuel rail retaining bolt. Some one had put to long of a bolt in and went into the lifter part of the head. So I yanked the engine and trans out. The car is a 98 gst jdm 7bolt with 5 speed. Hks cams and egr ports welded and checked so stock exept cams. Block is stock, trans is stock. Mods, light wieght steel flywheel a better than stock clutch, wally255,fic 750,afpr,link, sd, aem wide band, short route fmic with a tial bov.[DOUBLEPOST=1412104332][/DOUBLEPOST]Well crap the half of my post didn't post.[DOUBLEPOST=1412105529][/DOUBLEPOST]The housing is a antisurge tdo6 Kinugawa. Wheel is a billet 6+6 extended tip 20g. I was running E16g but I didn't like the boost craziness and it ran outa steam early. Also I noticed that driving 80 mph on the high way thier was no need to down shift., just give it more gas and the car would pass another like it was standing still with out a down shift needed also if I'm at 3,200 rpm at 80mph and boost is coming in at 2,800rpm that I would get better gas mpg if I went with a bigger turbo? If I'm driving that far in boost I'm using more fuel, correct. I was getting around26 mpg. .[DOUBLEPOST=1412106132][/DOUBLEPOST]And by going tdo6 with a 6 blade., boost should come in at a higher rpm? Correct?[DOUBLEPOST=1412106210][/DOUBLEPOST]And the 080 housing should take out some of the 20g lag?[DOUBLEPOST=1412106431][/DOUBLEPOST]As far as the future with this car no, just a good Hwy dd car. I have another car that I'm building a awd to be a bad ass, and not a dd car unless it is needed. .
 
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Well im gunning for high 300hp. The motor is a jdm that came with the car. The person couldn't get it running that I bought from. After wiring up the Cass it fired right up but had a oil leak from a fuel rail retaining bolt. Some one had put to long of a bolt in and went into the lifter part of the head. So I yanked the engine and trans out. The car is a 98 gst jdm 7bolt with 5 speed. Hks cams and egr ports welded and checked so stock exept cams. Block is stock, trans is stock. Mods, light wieght steel flywheel a better than stock clutch, wally255,fic 750,afpr,link, sd, aem wide band, short route fmic with a tial bov.
You don't really need a billet 20G to reach your goal, but at least you can run a lower boost level and it'll be better overall on the turbo and your engine.

Wheel is a billet 6+6 extended tip 20g. I was running E16g but I didn't like the boost craziness and it ran outa steam early. Also I noticed that driving 80 mph on the high way thier was no need to down shift., just give it more gas and the car would pass another like it was standing still with out a down shift needed also if I'm at 3,200 rpm at 80mph and boost is coming in at 2,800rpm that I would get better gas mpg if I went with a bigger turbo? If I'm driving that far in boost I'm using more fuel, correct. I was getting around26 mpg.
Doubtful, unless it moves the spool RPM range high enough that you'll essentially be non-turbo driving around normally...not in boost.
And by going tdo6 with a 6 blade., boost should come in at a higher rpm? Correct?
Blade count has to do with boost pressure, not RPM range. Generally-speaking, a higher blade count works better at lower boost levels...less blades work better at higher boost.
And the 080 housing should take out some of the 20g lag?
Wrong again...you'll be adding lag, gaining turbine flow.

Sounds to me like you're actually going to end up with the exact opposite of the turbo you want to build, honestly.
 
How best to identify what CM my holset turbine housing is? I've tried googling the assy. numbers and searching here but couldn't find anything. I'm not asking to be spoon fed, a link to a walkthrough will suffice or just a "measure ____ and do this". Thanks a bunch to any/all help.
 
Post some pics of any of the numbers found on the housing...it's on there somewhere. ;)

Check inside the turbine inlet flange, too...there's usually something like "16" cast into the housing which would denote a 16cm2 housing. :thumb:
 
I just bought a hx35 from someone that said it was rebuilt by Justin Whitesell. If I sent you a pic of it could you verify that you did rebuild it? And I won't be able to work on the car for 4-6 months and was wondering the best way to store the turbo, if there is in fact a proper way to store it.
 
Is there any compressor covers out there that use a coupler style attachment instead of a j-pipe for the SMALL 16G? I heard that Hanh sells them with their 16g but I called and they are currently long out of stock on the covers and prefer not to sell them separately anyway.
 
I just bought a hx35 from someone that said it was rebuilt by Justin Whitesell. If I sent you a pic of it could you verify that you did rebuild it?
Who knows. Wouldn't be the first time someone tried passing off a junk core as being "just rebuilt" by me.

Look for my initials on the compressor wheel.

Also, this is a tech forum- your inquiry here has zero to do with turbo system tech. Please send a PM for any non-tech questions to prevent clogging this thread up more than necessary. ;)
And I won't be able to work on the car for 4-6 months and was wondering the best way to store the turbo, if there is in fact a proper way to store it.
Store it in the same position as if it were mounted to the vehicle.

Is there any compressor covers out there that use a coupler style attachment instead of a j-pipe for the SMALL 16G? I heard that Hanh sells them with their 16g but I called and they are currently long out of stock on the covers and prefer not to sell them separately anyway.
Hahn is the only company I've ever seen which distributed an aftermarket turbo targeting the import performance crowd using this particular cover you're seeking. I'm not sure if it's bolt-on capable right out of the box or if it must be machined.
 
Jus,
so I am in a dilemma , i have not finished all my build and had some interesting thoughts. Currently I have a Td05h-20g machined into a 16g compressor cover. However I am bouncing back and forth between just going back to the original 20g downward firing compressor or the machined compressor. My Hp goals are at least or close to 400whp on e85 I bought some 1450 injectors and plan on doing an inline fuel pump in addition to my walbro 255 I have bc 272's(i know poor cam choice). I wanted to know any input on how late the lag could be? can I achieve this HP goal ? Does the 20g have a decent boost "yank" or is it light and quick instant spool like the E16g. I am optimistically attempting to go into the high 20s for PSI since I would be on E-85 just asking for feedback thoughts or concepts. I am running an TIAL EWG with a dumped o2 housing and a apexi 3 inch exhaust.
 
Select the cover because of fitment- the compressor doesn't really care what cover it's behind. There are plenty of stock-appearing turbos out there making far more power than you're looking to make. The turbine wheel is going to hold you back more than the compressor cover- but if you want a torquey-feeling powerband you definitely want to stay with the TD05H turbine.
 
Justin, I have a 7 blade hx40 60mm paired with a bep t3 turbine housing. It used to be a tight fit where center section fits into the turbine housing. I recently sent the turbine housing out to be ceramic coated. Upon re-installation with the 4 bolts that hold the little c-clip looking pieces on fully tight i can wiggle the center section slightly. Do I need to replace the c-clips? Everything is tightened up all the way? Can't see anything wrong, but i don't remember the wiggle before, seems as this could cause the turbine wheel to make contact with the housing.
 
Am i correct in the assumption it should have no play there? Also where can i buy new c-clips at? Would you happen to have any new ones laying around. I bought this turbo from you brand new several years ago.
 
You can't buy the clamps anywhere but Bullseye.

I'm wondering if the thickness of the coating is building the surface of the housing flange too thick where the clamps attach. You may want to knock some of the coating off using a roloc disc and an angle grinder to bring it back into spec.
 
I took it all back apart and upon close inspection the c clips had a groove in the where it had been used before, I simply flipped them over and problem solved. I looked on bep's website and couldn't find them neither could i find them on extremepsi or anywhere else. I will have to have new ones if i ever have to split them again. Guess i'll just call them up.
 
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