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To the OP: looks really good man. i plan to do something small and clean as well i was actually thinking of just using a couple of eights myself and keeping the middle of my floor open.

good work though for sure
 
Thats what im about to buy. In a stock dash speaker location direct fit ,same size as the original ones (first pic)

Already bought these in a doors . 6.5" mid bass speakers. (Second pic)

And the subwoofer 8" (last pic)

Does this setup looks any good?
 

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Thats what im about to buy. In a stock dash speaker location direct fit ,same size as the original ones (first pic)

Already bought these in a doors . 6.5" mid bass speakers. (Second pic)

And the subwoofer 8" (last pic)

Does this setup looks any good?

Don't use those speakers in the dash just get a regular tweet, it will be fine, you don't want a 2-way speaker up in the dash, just get a dedicated tweet.

Try to return that sub. Kicker sucks, its not a sound quality sub. And i would suggest going at least 2 8's or a single 10" A single 8 is better than nothing but its not moving much air, therefore not very loud and won't hit any deep notes. I can't tell what those midbass speakers are or the coaxial in the first one, i think those are JL c2?
 
Im trying to do a clean setup , so im looking for something to fill in a stock dash speakers. Ive seen aomewhere a 3 1/2" tweets. And i canceled the sub order, I found a 10" JL audio. The first pic is Jl c2's,second pic- pair of Beyma's
 
Im trying to do a clean setup , so im looking for something to fill in a stock dash speakers. Ive seen aomewhere a 3 1/2" tweets. And i canceled the sub order, I found a 10" JL audio. The first pic is Jl c2's,second pic- pair of Beyma's

What model JL 10? I have a w1v2 in my truck, ehhhh its ok. I like w3's. I was going to go with one but freaking got this id12 at a great price. Look at image dynamics ID10 they are good price and a pretty musical sub. The JLw3 is fantastic though, been a good solid sub for a long time.

Heres some more pics of the build i found for anyone who is interested. A few pics of the front midbass baffles I made (a must for good bass response IMO)

Baffles:

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Raammat:

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Overall its great, confusing to figure out because there is so many options. No I tdont have it all tuned and dialed in. The components need about 10 hours of break in before I'm going to seriously start tuning it. So far they only had about 30 minutes of play time on them, seeing as I drive the car about 200 miles a year its going to be hard to to get them broken in quickly. Hopefully I will be sitting in the garage playing some tunes for an hour at a time this winter breaking it in.

The deck has a horrible LCD screen, i think i had a deck about 10 years ago that had a similiar screen, but thats not the point of the deck, its really just a hard core audiophile deck, and thats it. Its not for looks or flash, but for tuning. For the price theres nothing out there that can even come close to comparison. Basically it gives you the ability in an active set up to control everything you would want to control from EACH individual speaker, eq each speaker, ta each speaker, etc.

Okay good to know. It's funny how this thread is just as much an advice thread from you as a build thread. But anyways, I'm thinking of eventually going with the 80prs but I'm trying to do a cost effective build when it comes to the rest of the components.

I'm okay with splurging on the Head Unit and Subwoofer (JL 10w3, hopefully), but would like to save on the front components and speaker amp and possibly 6x9s and the rear for fill. Do you have any recommendations? I'm thinking of trying to find a component set for the front 6.5 and tweeter (in dash) by Image Dynamics, Focal, JBL, or MB Quart for under $150, and a 6x9 from JBL (GTO938) or something similar for some fill. With the [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQU13CC/ref=s9_bbs_gw_d1_g422_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-6&pf_rd_r=1DH4B59YY77QWJ24BQ8A&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200342&pf_rd_i=507846"]MB Quart OA1100.5[/ame] as my amp.

Sorry this is so long. if you have time please chime in.
 
Its a 10w3v3-4 model
Good sub watch it though because those I believe are only a single voice coil if i remember right. I used to have 4 of those in my 350z running off 2 JL 1000/1's that thing it so hard it seriously hurt your head and friends would scream to turn it down.

If those are a single voice coil you want to get the 2ohm version not the 4 ohm or you will need alot more amp to get decent 4 ohm power. Some would argue 4 ohm is cleaner less stress on the amp, but honestly I could never tell that with the low frequencies. If its a dual voice coil sub get the 4 ohm version and wire it in parallel and you will draw a 2 ohm load out of your amp.

Okay good to know. It's funny how this thread is just as much an advice thread from you as a build thread. But anyways, I'm thinking of eventually going with the 80prs but I'm trying to do a cost effective build when it comes to the rest of the components.

I'm okay with splurging on the Head Unit and Subwoofer (JL 10w3, hopefully), but would like to save on the front components and speaker amp and possibly 6x9s and the rear for fill. Do you have any recommendations? I'm thinking of trying to find a component set for the front 6.5 and tweeter (in dash) by Image Dynamics, Focal, JBL, or MB Quart for under $150, and a 6x9 from JBL (GTO938) or something similar for some fill. With the MB Quart OA1100.5 as my amp.

Sorry this is so long. if you have time please chime in.

I've been trying to sit in the car for 30 minutes a night and just listen to the system and get a base level tune, and the more I listen to it the more i love the options of the 80 PRS. Its a little funky but after you get used to it you'll love the control you have with it. I have the Image dynamics 165cx component set wired active. Come to find out I could have saved alot of money or stepped up for just a little more by ordering the speakers seperatly and skipping the passive crossover supplied. I think for $200 instead of $150 i would have had alot better midbass speakers from ID just not passive crossover which I threw in the trash anyways. I have had 2 different sets of focals one of the k2's and one of the lower end access, both of them had too bright of tweets for my ears the access were a little harsh even. Midbass was great until I heard the Hertz HSK i have in my truck now and the ID's in my eclipse so far have much better midbass as well but in all fairness i have sealed doors so that is unfair to the focal's. I can't remember the exact name but HAT makes a GREAT set of cheaper components that always get unbelievable reviews. I think they were in the $200 range though.

Got the MB OA1100.5 in my install now. SO far its fantastic. I like having everything in one amp, and it has more than enough power for a decent SQ setup. Gets pretty loud and I haven't had any clipping from the amp yet either so its got plenty of room.

Once again I would stay away from rear fill. The whole point with the car audio is to have the sound stage in front of you, you can make rear fill work, it just has a very very limited hz range it can play in to actually make it sound better. I think around 400hz to 2000 hz is the usual.

Ok The novel is finished.
 
Very clean build, well planned and executed! Nice to see someone on here using the ID 165s, same set I have in my Eclipse and they are the definition of bang for your buck. Even the Hertz ESKs are $300 and although they are fine too, like you mentioned the $500 HSK is closer to on par with the ID set. Awesome that you have set them up in an active layout, wanted to go there but chose to spend money on engine instead, so I'm stuck with the CTX165CS set up front and a 15" Fi Q in the trunk. Your false floor and box and front baffles turned out really good and I am gonna do my best to copy them, hope you dont have trademark rights LOL!

How was the cost/performance of the Raammat and ensolite compared to the average dynamat or fatmat setup? I also was reading the other day of people using a peel and stick roofing product from Lowe's but I think its also affected negatively by water and condensation. Need a cheap alternative to dynamat tho!!
 
Very clean build, well planned and executed! Nice to see someone on here using the ID 165s, same set I have in my Eclipse and they are the definition of bang for your buck. Even the Hertz ESKs are $300 and although they are fine too, like you mentioned the $500 HSK is closer to on par with the ID set. Awesome that you have set them up in an active layout, wanted to go there but chose to spend money on engine instead, so I'm stuck with the CTX165CS set up front and a 15" Fi Q in the trunk. Your false floor and box and front baffles turned out really good and I am gonna do my best to copy them, hope you dont have trademark rights LOL!

How was the cost/performance of the Raammat and ensolite compared to the average dynamat or fatmat setup? I also was reading the other day of people using a peel and stick roofing product from Lowe's but I think its also affected negatively by water and condensation. Need a cheap alternative to dynamat tho!![/]

Thanks buddy. Ya the ID 165 are a great deal, excellent set for the price. The raammat and ensolite are a great bargain, I've done a whole car in dynamat before and it was a total rip off compared to raammat. The ensolite people think doesn't do much, but they are wrong. The best thing about the ensolite is putting it on the back of all your panels after you have covered all your frame with it, because its foam on foam contact, no vibrations. I ca turn this stereo up quite loud and even when i turn the sub up a ways i don't hear a single rattle, its fantastic, quietest car i've ever owned.
 
I'm okay with splurging on the Head Unit and Subwoofer (JL 10w3, hopefully), but would like to save on the front components and speaker amp and possibly 6x9s and the rear for fill. Do you have any recommendations? I'm thinking of trying to find a component set for the front 6.5 and tweeter (in dash) by Image Dynamics, Focal, JBL, or MB Quart for under $150, and a 6x9 from JBL (GTO938) or something similar for some fill. .[/QUOTE]

I've had an MB Quart 6" component system for years and absolutely loved it. However, the sound quality isn't what it used to be since being bought out by Rockford Phosgate.

If it's in your budget, I'd highly recommend German Maestro. The same engineers from MB Q, and even same location. I've also heard good things about Focal recently on other forums. (I'll admit to NO personal experience with Focal though).
 
I've been trying to sit in the car for 30 minutes a night and just listen to the system and get a base level tune, and the more I listen to it the more i love the options of the 80 PRS. Its a little funky but after you get used to it you'll love the control you have with it. I have the Image dynamics 165cx component set wired active. Come to find out I could have saved alot of money or stepped up for just a little more by ordering the speakers seperatly and skipping the passive crossover supplied. I think for $200 instead of $150 i would have had alot better midbass speakers from ID just not passive crossover which I threw in the trash anyways. I have had 2 different sets of focals one of the k2's and one of the lower end access, both of them had too bright of tweets for my ears the access were a little harsh even. Midbass was great until I heard the Hertz HSK i have in my truck now and the ID's in my eclipse so far have much better midbass as well but in all fairness i have sealed doors so that is unfair to the focal's. I can't remember the exact name but HAT makes a GREAT set of cheaper components that always get unbelievable reviews. I think they were in the $200 range though.

Got the MB OA1100.5 in my install now. SO far its fantastic. I like having everything in one amp, and it has more than enough power for a decent SQ setup. Gets pretty loud and I haven't had any clipping from the amp yet either so its got plenty of room.

Once again I would stay away from rear fill. The whole point with the car audio is to have the sound stage in front of you, you can make rear fill work, it just has a very very limited hz range it can play in to actually make it sound better. I think around 400hz to 2000 hz is the usual.

Ok The novel is finished.

Thanks buddy. Ya the ID 165 are a great deal, excellent set for the price. The raammat and ensolite are a great bargain, I've done a whole car in dynamat before and it was a total rip off compared to raammat. The ensolite people think doesn't do much, but they are wrong. The best thing about the ensolite is putting it on the back of all your panels after you have covered all your frame with it, because its foam on foam contact, no vibrations. I ca turn this stereo up quite loud and even when i turn the sub up a ways i don't hear a single rattle, its fantastic, quietest car i've ever owned.

I've had an MB Quart 6" component system for years and absolutely loved it. However, the sound quality isn't what it used to be since being bought out by Rockford Phosgate.

If it's in your budget, I'd highly recommend German Maestro. The same engineers from MB Q, and even same location. I've also heard good things about Focal recently on other forums. (I'll admit to NO personal experience with Focal though).

Thanks guys for all the great insight. I have decided on my head unit, amp, sub, and sound deadening. Just need to do my homework on the speakers to make the right choice for my budget.

Are you giving each tweeter and mid bass their own channel on the 5 channel and the sub as the 5th (I'm assuming). And the tuning is all done through the 80prs with the 3 network stuff? I'm not to knowledgeable on tuning especially with it done by frequency ranges (hi/mid/low) instead of front/rear/sub.
 
Thanks guys for all the great insight. I have decided on my head unit, amp, sub, and sound deadening. Just need to do my homework on the speakers to make the right choice for my budget.

Are you giving each tweeter and mid bass their own channel on the 5 channel and the sub as the 5th (I'm assuming). And the tuning is all done through the 80prs with the 3 network stuff? I'm not to knowledgeable on tuning especially with it done by frequency ranges (hi/mid/low) instead of front/rear/sub.

Yup you are pretty much spot on there. The networks on the 80prs work different than you would think, each network is not for each speaker. There are actualy 4 networks on the 80 prs but it really can only do a 2.1 active setup. On pioneers website they have alot of videos on the operation that explain how it works. Basically the best way to explain and "active" vs. "passive" set up is that active means you can actively control each speaker, where as passive uses a passive crossover that it set to certain crossover points and cannot be changed without removing and replacing it with a different crossover. Active is not for a newbie just wanting a quick stereo upgrade, it takes time and learning and tuning to get it to work right but once you do you have amazing control in time alignment, eq, crossover points of each individual speaker. SO i have channel 1 powering the front left tweet, channel 2 powering front right tweet, channel 3 powering front left mid, channel 4 powering front right mid, and channel 5 powering the sub.

If it were a passive setup i would have channel 1 powering the left crossover which would branch out to the left mid and left tweet, and channel 2 powering the right crossover which would branch out tot he right mid and right tweet, than would bridge the 3&4 channels to power the sub, then wonder why I had a 5th channel ;)
 
Yup you are pretty much spot on there. The networks on the 80prs work different than you would think, each network is not for each speaker. There are actualy 4 networks on the 80 prs but it really can only do a 2.1 active setup. On pioneers website they have alot of videos on the operation that explain how it works. Basically the best way to explain and "active" vs. "passive" set up is that active means you can actively control each speaker, where as passive uses a passive crossover that it set to certain crossover points and cannot be changed without removing and replacing it with a different crossover. Active is not for a newbie just wanting a quick stereo upgrade, it takes time and learning and tuning to get it to work right but once you do you have amazing control in time alignment, eq, crossover points of each individual speaker. SO i have channel 1 powering the front left tweet, channel 2 powering front right tweet, channel 3 powering front left mid, channel 4 powering front right mid, and channel 5 powering the sub.

If it were a passive setup i would have channel 1 powering the left crossover which would branch out to the left mid and left tweet, and channel 2 powering the right crossover which would branch out tot he right mid and right tweet, than would bridge the 3&4 channels to power the sub, then wonder why I had a 5th channel ;)

Hey dewoof I have a quick question! I'm doing my stereo one step at a time for budget reasons, and with the front two door speakers both blown, I'm going to start there. Is it possible to replace them directly without messing with the Stock Infinity amp? and then going back and replacing the infinity amp later? I was going to just Run a Pioneer head unit I have laying around and some aftermarket front speakers. Then Do the Subwoofer on its own amp. Then replace the infinity with a 5 channel down the road. Is this possible? I'm just looking for a way to get some quick easy sound while I save up to do it all down the road. It's my daily driver and I need music for the commute!
 
wow amazing work i am going to take some key points for use in another build of mine
 
Wicked setup, I'm in the middle of putting together a best bang for the buck audio system. I have put in a set of JL audio highs a set of crewing vega door mids and trying to build a box in the empty spare tire and tools. With 18 inch rims spare tire is useless. I'm building it in my first gen talon, I'm going to take some aspects for my build. I love the pics info you documented on your build. When I grow up I hope my talon will look half as good and has just as clean setup as yours!
 
Thanks bro. Good luck with the build. Its a b making a false floor for the back of these cars. Believe me I know this is the third one I've done. I only drive this car about 500 miles a year so I don't care about spare tires and storage like DD guys do. I'm all about reliability and comfort.
 
I'm going to lay the sound proof mat in the hatch and then pick a subwoofer and amp. My friend owns a place in Scarborough un the GTA (greater Toronto area) called Chase Audio. Complete laying of Duramat on the floor and doors box with a wood battery box for 700 ish. It doesn't include the amp and subwoofer. Any ideas for a nice amp and subwoofer? Is your setup a single 10" woofer or a 12 inch woofer? I like the pics and I'll try to to document as well as you have. How much difference with the sound proof mat make when just driving around? Was it worth it?
 
I'm going to lay the sound proof mat in the hatch and then pick a subwoofer and amp. My friend owns a place in Scarborough un the GTA (greater Toronto area) called Chase Audio. Complete laying of Duramat on the floor and doors box with a wood battery box for 700 ish. It doesn't include the amp and subwoofer. Any ideas for a nice amp and subwoofer? Is your setup a single 10" woofer or a 12 inch woofer? I like the pics and I'll try to to document as well as you have. How much difference with the sound proof mat make when just driving around? Was it worth it?

why not just do it yourself for a fraction of the cost? Huge difference in the sound deadening. But i have it on the outside skins and over the interior as well, roof doors hatch behind the dash, floor, everywhere there some. Its a single 12". I prefer 10's personally but if your box it right, it doesn't really make a difference, 12 can just hit lower than a single ten so you get a better range with a 12. Seriously though i am only running 500w to my 12" and I only have the gain set to about 1/3, because i honestly don't need it any louder, it blends great, pounding bass is for people who don't like real music.
 
Wow great stereo build! I'm in the middle of my build on my 1g and it will be very similar. I have dropped the sound mat in the hatch and rear seat ares and looking forward to doing the rest of the car, did you notice a big change with the mat covering the car? Was it quieter? Was it worth the money? I've changed all the speakers but waiting to buy a sub woofer and an amplifier. Is that a ten inch sub woofer and is it enough without going over board? Sorry about all the questions because I'm older and don't want to advertise to people come and steal my car. Your build is super clean. I love it!
 
Wow great stereo build! I'm in the middle of my build on my 1g and it will be very similar. I have dropped the sound mat in the hatch and rear seat ares and looking forward to doing the rest of the car, did you notice a big change with the mat covering the car? Was it quieter? Was it worth the money? I've changed all the speakers but waiting to buy a sub woofer and an amplifier. Is that a ten inch sub woofer and is it enough without going over board? Sorry about all the questions because I'm older and don't want to advertise to people come and steal my car. Your build is super clean. I love it!

Huge difference with the raammat. Its more than worth doing. Its a 12" sub, i usually prefer 10's but the size of the sub doesn't matter as much as the total surface area of the sub(s) is what is louder and deeper the bigger the surface area. I wanted just one 10 but this is a fantastic sub and the 12" i found relabeled for 50% the price of the 10"
 
I concur that a 12 inch woofer is a deeper boom that actually isn't louder but more powerful. I can't use a spare so there is lots of room but I want a lower baffle that only a 10 inch woofer so I can use the hatch for groceries or a weekend bag for my wife and I. This new script lost all your pics, would you be able to upload some of the hatch with all your components so I have an idea for placement. My buddy owns a stereo shop but I have OCD and need it to be simple and neat.
 
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