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1G 5 speed - Sick of 9's...

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Urban, I try to keep it under 9K, its not easy to do in first gear. I have a prior post of a log in this thread. Check it out, look at the time axis.

Thanks for the positive feedback everyone, I enjoy fabricating and sharing what I come up with. It should all pay off next year.

Update:

I just wrapped up my half radiator installation. I modified the inlet and outlets to increase the size up to 1.5", chopped off the filler neck and covered it up, fabricated new mounts, added a petcock valve, and to wrap it up made a new overflow tank.

Weight savings ended up being 17+ pounds. Kind of crazy, more than what I expected. I weighed both radiators filled with water to make the comparison. Some of the weight was due to removing the extra radiator fan too.

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Thanks again for the feedback.

I purchased one of those frontline fab rear end covers and just received it earlier this month. I got a little advice from Mondale on how to install it, thanks.

I also took the opportunity to take a touch of weigh out of it. The cover was a little heaver than the stock so I tubed up the rear brace to turn it into a net loss of weight. I used 1.25" 4130 .096 wall.

I have a couple of little projects and I will be ready for the season. I need to wire up the launch solenoid, send my injectors out to FIC for clean/balancing, drop the oil pan to take a peak at bearings, and get my turbo back from PTE(It was starting to leak oil into the exhaust housing).

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The rearend cover took 3 months to get it, it's worth the wait!

I decided to add Clamshell style intercooler piping couplers. I picked up a couple of vibrant clamshell clamps. I keep bending aluminum ic pipe by over torqueing t-bolt clamps, causing boost leaks. These should solve that issue.

I looked around and from peoples feedback on the web and the vibrant clamps are the most rugged and they also have a safety locking pin so it won’t accidently open up like some of the others.


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It's been a while since my last update.

I sent my turbo out to be rebuilt, since it was pushing a little oil in the exhaust housing. I finally got it back and installed it. I upsized the turbo oil drain to AN10 from AN8 too.

I also sent out my injectors to FIC for testing, cleaning, and balancing. The results were interesting. The 2150's were within 2% match of one another, however the flow rate was down to a 1950 average! My secondary 900's were spot on. FIC was able to get the 2150 back in spec.

I took the oil pan off the car to update the turbo drain fitting and to inspect the lower end. Everything looks good. It is ready for the season! I also welded on another clamshell clamp on my IC piping. Did a quick leak check and they seal very well.

I don't know if I'm going to get to my K-member done this year unless I get started very soon or purchase one. Now we need the weather to cooperate to get this season started!
 
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Yesterdays temperatures were too nice here in MN - 50. I got the Talon on the ground last night with the new 15" rim and tire combo. Looks mean.

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Finished Pic of work from this winter under the hood:

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I also mounted a push button switch to my steering wheel for launch control if I cannot figure out how to get the AEM to take care of it automatically (I need to be able to configure an output on the EMS when the 2 step is active). It's a bent piece of sheet metal attached to the back of the wheel. It turned out nice.



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The car looks amazing Mark, love everything about it. And look at all that dry pavement!!!
 
Thanks for all the positive feedback.

I got a little done this weekend. I picked up a CAS cover from MAP and finished the wiring for the launch solenoid, it is wired to the switch on the steering wheel and the EMS can control it automatically(Activated when the 2-step is active).


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Oh and I almost forgot, I'm going to start building a backup short block. I'm going to build an aluminum rod 2.2 SLR motor. One of the ways to make a 2.2L is to use a 2.0 block, 94mm crank with a 153mm rod using the normal 2.3L stroker pistons. This will allow me to rev out the motor a lot more, with safety. I'm also going to go high compression too. I will be selling some motor stuff soon, my current short block will be up for sale. I also have 2 spare 100mm 6-bolt cranks, a 1G built head, some other race stuff I don't plan on using.
 
You can get a launch control device at MAP:

MAP Hydraulic Launch Control Device for Manual Transmission Vehicles - Modern Automotive Performance

The launch control device has an electric controlled hydraulic solenoid and a flow control valve.

The launch control device installs in line with the hydraulic clutch system. I use all an3 fittings between the stock clutch master cylinder and launch control device and the other end goes out of the launch control device to the clutch slave cylinder.

How it works: You disengage the clutch, put your foot to the floor. Then activate the launch control device, with either an electrical switch or have an ECU control it on something like 2-step rev control. The electric solenoid that is activated blocks the fluid path. This will force the fluid through the flow control valve, causing a controlled clutch engagement. The effect is that it will control the speed at which the clutch is engaged when you let the clutch pedal out.
 
How do you like those vibrant clamshell clamps? Im really thinking about getting some for my build because I will be running about 40psi on my hx40 and dont wanted to deal with boost leaks, constantly tightening clamps and the possibility of crushing my I/C piping by over tightening my t-bolt clamps
 
Oh and I almost forgot, I'm going to start building a backup short block. I'm going to build an aluminum rod 2.2 SLR motor. One of the ways to make a 2.2L is to use a 2.0 block, 94mm crank with a 153mm rod using the normal 2.3L stroker pistons. This will allow me to rev out the motor a lot more, with safety. I'm also going to go high compression too. I will be selling some motor stuff soon, my current short block will be up for sale. I also have 2 spare 100mm 6-bolt cranks, a 1G built head, some other race stuff I don't plan on using.
Sounds like you've been following English Racing's activities as of late. The SLR 2.2L they've been building over the last couple years is an amazing engine. They've been building them like crazy recently. I got their first 6-bolt SLR 2.2L build last year and I absolutely love it. We used 10.5:1 Wiseco HD2s and R&R 153mm steel rods in mine. They didn't tell me aluminum rods were an option though or I'd have gotten them! It was an awesome compromise for me using a mid-sized turbo automatic with no nitrous. Awesome stall up ability from the extra displacement with great rev range using the longer rod. You're going to love this motor!
 
[U=black97spyder;153414471]How do you like those vibrant clamshell clamps? Im really thinking about getting some for my build because I will be running about 40psi on my hx40 and dont wanted to deal with boost leaks, constantly tightening clamps and the possibility of crushing my I/C piping by over tightening my t-bolt clamps[/QUOTE]

The verdict is still out on those clamps. I'll let you know after the first time out this season. Mondale, from this forum, is having a good success using clamshell clamps @ high psi. Your issue was the same as mine with regard to tbolt clamps. The vibrant clamps are awesome for easy disconnecting.

Sounds like you've been following English Racing's activities as of late. The SLR 2.2L they've been building over the last couple years is an amazing engine. They've been building them like crazy recently. I got their first 6-bolt SLR 2.2L build last year and I absolutely love it. We used 10.5:1 Wiseco HD2s and R&R 153mm steel rods in mine. They didn't tell me aluminum rods were an option though or I'd have gotten them! It was an awesome compromise for me using a mid-sized turbo automatic with no nitrous. Awesome stall up ability from the extra displacement with great rev range using the longer rod. You're going to love this motor!

Yes, I have been tracking the er 2.2 build and results. For my situation it is the best bang for the buck, since I need the displacement for the large turbo I run. Its a good blend of displacement and rpm capability.I didn't want to deal with a new 2.0 forcing me buy a different turbo aswell to maximize the capability or run nos. I'll be the guinea pig for the 6 bolt version with aluminum rods.
 
The verdict is still out on those clamps. I'll let you know after the first time out this season. Mondale, from this forum, is having a good success using clamshell clamps @ high psi. Your issue was the same as mine with regard to tbolt clamps. The vibrant clamps are awesome for easy disconnecting.

When do you plan on the first trip to the track? I would like to know as soon as possible as im trying to get my car going in the next 2 weeks :thumb:

Thanks for the input!
 
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