Sws
10+ Year Contributor
- 238
- 0
- Aug 1, 2012
-
Mount Vernon,
Illinois
Is it out of the question to get 250-300HP on a stock block? It's a rebuilt engine with a sightly bigger bore and only around 20k miles.
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The rods are the weakest link.. it's not a matter of if, but when will they give out. 250-300 hp on a stock block, maybe..but not for long.
actually the weak point is the rod bolts, not the rods. The rod bolts stretch and cause the rod to seize on the crank or damage the bearing. Using LS1 ARP rod bolts, more than a few guys have been over 350whp on stock rods.
And actually running a smaller, quicker spooling turbo is harder on internals than a larger, slower spooling turbo. Think of it in terms of the actual amount of time the combustion event has to create force on the pistons and rods: at Lower rpm's, the piston is traveling slower, staying in each combustion event for a longer period of time; at Higher rpm's, the piston is traveling faster, staying in each combustion event for a shorter period of time, allowing less time for the combustion event to act on the piston/rod.
Also, at higher rpm, there is more inertial force (horsepower) from the engine and so it takes less direct force on the piston/rod to cause the crank to turn 1 revolution.
I ran 14-15psi with a 60trim with no intercooler on e85 on a single cam neon (same block) for 6 months, beating the crap out of it every day. I was moving and have a few projects so I parted it out. Never had any issue with it... and that was a 100% stock block (no arp bolts) and 100% stock auto trans
ok...... LS1 rod bolts WILL work in a 420a just so you are now aware. ECB, ECC, 420a all use the same rod bolts. please check your info before posting, thank you.
As for reliability, the tune is key. 300whp on a stock block reliably is easy to accomplish.
actually the weak point is the rod bolts, not the rods. The rod bolts stretch and cause the rod to seize on the crank or damage the bearing. Using LS1 ARP rod bolts, more than a few guys have been over 350whp on stock rods.
And actually running a smaller, quicker spooling turbo is harder on internals than a larger, slower spooling turbo. Think of it in terms of the actual amount of time the combustion event has to create force on the pistons and rods: at Lower rpm's, the piston is traveling slower, staying in each combustion event for a longer period of time; at Higher rpm's, the piston is traveling faster, staying in each combustion event for a shorter period of time, allowing less time for the combustion event to act on the piston/rod.
Also, at higher rpm, there is more inertial force (horsepower) from the engine and so it takes less direct force on the piston/rod to cause the crank to turn 1 revolution.
I ran 14-15psi with a 60trim with no intercooler on e85 on a single cam neon (same block) for 6 months, beating the crap out of it every day. I was moving and have a few projects so I parted it out. Never had any issue with it... and that was a 100% stock block (no arp bolts) and 100% stock auto trans
Again, show where and I'll admit that I have NEVER seen anyone on here say they used LS1 rod bolts. Why would everyone purchase arp2000 rod bolts for the 420a specifically when arp makes rod bolts for our engine.. sooooo strange.
But one guy who says many has done it, yet no links to said "info" that I'm incorrect about.
Sorry OP, guess I'm old fashioned and stick with a tried and true path..
See I don't mind being stand corrected unless someone had proof. Thank. You psycho.