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Peel and Seal "Dynamat" on the cheap DIY Guide

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SnoopySLR

20+ Year Contributor
1,158
4
Nov 14, 2002
Highland, Michigan
Posted this on WRXTuners because I now have a wrx... but I wont ever forget where my roots are. Figured all you guys would benefit from this too.


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Left is Peel and Seal. Right is Dynamat Extreme.

So, I've searched the internet over and over... and I could not find anybody pointing out the facts of Peel and Seal. So, here is my first hand unbiased opinion on Peel and Seal.

First off, P&S "DOES" have an odor. The odor is very faint tho. My dad has a ridiculous sense of smell and I had him sit in the car. He didn't even notice the smell until I said do you smell anything. His reply was "I thought I smelt asphalt." A friend of mine explained the smell as "A very familiar smell that you dismiss very quickly." I couldn't agree more. I currently only have my doors and trunk done. I'm going to be doing the roof and the entire floor in the next month. I will post again how the smell is after that. I hope to counter some of the odor by sprinkling Baking Soda on the floor before the carpet goes back in.

Secondly I'd like to address people argument on the "stickyness" of P&S. I've read people post on other sites saying that it "slides." I have only had this on for 1 month now, and it has not budged an inch. My car has sat in the sun and got very hot inside (past 100 degrees). While installing this stuff, if you lightly put in on your surface you have about 5 seconds until it is so stuck down, its going to leave a residue behind when it does come up. If you pushed the P&S down, its not coming up, i don't care what you do.

Now for the walk through of the install.

Tools needed
- Razor Blades
- a GOOD pair of scissors
- Acetone
- Rags
- a set of pick tools

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First, remove your door panel and any clips that are on the surface you are about to seal.

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Now you will want to clean every inch of surface you are about to apply P&S to thoroughly with Acetone. You can purchase Acetone at most hardware stores. Home Depot will surely have it.

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After your mating surface is cleaned, you can begin installing P&S. Now, there isn't much of a science behind doing this, just make sure that all the corners are pressed down. You don't want to trap air underneath your P&S. I don't know for a fact, but I assume you could trap moisture underneath and cause corrosion. A lot of people suggest to use rollers and other tools, I've found that the best tool you can have to do this is your thumbs. I also did use a piece of wood the I sanded to a smooth "chisel" to push down the sharp corners.

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To find your holes in your door, I used a pick. Seemed to work good, if you can think of an easier way, good for you.
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Use the pick to poke a hole from the backside of the hole. This will prevent you from making a murder scene of stabs in the front trying to find the hole.
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Once you have your indicator hole, use the pick to widen the hole up. You could also use a razor to cut the hole out after you find where its at.

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For bolts, I cut out around them. I didn't want to have to deal with cutting bolts out if the need to remove some component of the door happened in the future. I used my thumbs to push down around the bolt as best I could. I then used a razor blade to cut a circle around the bolt.

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I then used my pick to get underneath the cut out area and remove it from the surface of the bolt.

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This is what your finished product should look like. Make sure you remember where all those clips and wires were fastened so you can reinstall them in the same place.

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I had to get a little bit creative going around my door latch. The latch release, which is the bar on the lower side, is a little hard to see what I did. I actually have P&S on both sides, I just left the backing on the part that would touch the rod so it would not stick. Seemed to work good. I know having a 100% perfect seal on your door isn't that important, but if I'm gonna do something I wanna do it right.

Well, that about sums up the install. I will post more when I get to the floor. My goal of this all was not to increase my sound system. My goal is to make my ride quality as quiet and soft as possible, for as cheap as possible. Although, just "dynamating" my doors has turned my crummy stock speakers into something that actually sounds decent.

Thank you for looking at this guide. I hope it is helpful to everybody. Feel free to ask me any questions.
 
What is the price difference on something like this compared to dynamat?
And do you have some sort of system set up for you to be able to get inside the door if you need to?
 
Dynamat is about $80 for 20sq/ft. P&S is $15 for 12.5sq/ft. Its about 75% cheaper. To access anything in the door, you would only be able to access it through the holes in the door. You can easily take a razor blade and cut the holes out if you need too.
 
How good is it with blocking sound, and what is the weight like... Usually sound-deadeners are heavy and add a lot of weight to a car
 
nice write up. I'm not sure if I just missed this, but where can you get this stuff?
 
You can buy this at Lowes. The weight is 3lbs per roll, this is without the backing sheets and the cardboard roll.
 
How good is it with blocking sound, and what is the weight like...

i too would like to know what the sound deadening properties are like... i am currently doing a full paint on my car, inside included so my interior and everything is out at the moment, i am planing on leaving the 35 pound sound/heat shield out from under the dash because it weighs a ton... if this works well it might go in its place.
 
I just got the car back together this past week.

The sound deadening properties are not everything I was hoping for. It definitely helped alot, but I guess I was hoping my $100 was going to give me a 740.i ride quality...LOL The road noise from the doors is 100% gone. The cabin gets about 50% less road noise coming from the underside of the vehicle. I still need to do more to separate my trunk from my cabin (oh the joys of a sedan) to get less of the exhaust sound. All in all, I'm 100% satisfied with the results, even if it isn't everything I had hoped for (I think I was aiming alittle too high)

Make sure you put some of this P&S on the inside of the outer panels when you do this. I actually went back and cut away what I had already done on the inner door panel to do this. It made a big difference.
 
A lot of people have had trouble getting peel and seal to stick long term. Also it's acoustic properties are not as good as the purpose built dampeners. Availability of Pee and Seel depends upon your climate as it's not sold everywhere. (it's not sold here in Washington that I could find.)
Here is a site with a lot of choices including liquid dampeners. If you sign up for the email notifications, the owner runs sales and B stock sales often for better savings.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
 
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Very nice!

If I may interject here, I've read in the past that the Peel & Seal you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's isn't very good long term and may come off due to heat. Just some food for thought. Also, if anyone plans on going the Dynamat route, Second Skin Audio is essentially the same thing, but its a small business and the owner is real cool dude. The prices are generally cheaper than Dynamat and if you post on the forums a lot, he likes to give out free samples of new products!
 
Being that my install is only 2 month old, I cant vouch for the longevity of P&S. I can however say that I found both people saying it lasted for years, and that it didn't sick very long. Judging by the way this stuff is stuck on there right now, I'd say its not going anywhere.
 
I know this is kind of a dead thread. But, how is everyones PEEL & Seal is holding up after 2 years?
 
Sorry to revive this thread, but I thought I would just give a quick update. Its been over 2 years since I've done my "dyno-matting" and I thought I'd post my findings after 2 years.

I just upgraded the tweeters in my doors, so I had to pull the panels off. The Peel-n-Seal looks exactly the way it did when I first applied it. No drooping, no loose pieces, nothing. So after more than 2 years, the cheap alternative has held up perfectly.
 
Glad to hear you went back and did the outer skin of the panel. You would also be well served to put a layer of CCF over the top of that. Like ensolite from Raammat, its pretty cheap and makes a big difference. Also where your woofers are in the doors. Making an MDF baffle and attaching the speaker to that and sealing up the gaps between the speaker and the baffle and the baffle and the door will help you out alot more with your midbass as well.

I am almost done reinstalling my interior. I went a little more extreme than you but similiar in the doors. Mine is all covered in the ensolite as well which i feel made a very large difference.
 

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Necromancer alert! LOL

Just following up on this a bit for people. I gutted my interior for new carpet and the peel'n'seal looks perfect still. No bubbles of any kind, no signs of adhesion loss, nothing! Mind you, I live in Michigan, so this car sees -0°f to 100°f+ through out the year. 3 years since install and still perfect!

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Necromancer alert! LOL

Just following up on this a bit for people. I gutted my interior for new carpet and the peel'n'seal looks perfect still. No bubbles of any kind, no signs of adhesion loss, nothing! Mind you, I live in Michigan, so this car sees -0°f to 100°f+ through out the year. 3 years since install and still perfect!

Great news! While the post is back from the dead, may I ask... How many of the 6x25" rolls did you use?

It's pretty affordable but I think I'll just start with doors and trunk. Would one roll be enough?
 
^^^It works. Not sure how it compares with dynamat, but the difference in my car was really outstanding.
 
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