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4g63 Block Vent

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Well, you are correct.. but that thing is tee-d real low into the tunnel leading to the two big oil return galleys on the rear/intake side of the block:
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Which is probably why he pushes so much oil. Granted boost in the 40s is going to push oil almost no matter what.
 
LS-D, Bastard is correct that is into the vent tunnel under the intake cam. this one is in the head and not the block tho.

That will be a tight fit under the intake.
 
LS-D, Bastard is correct that is into the vent tunnel under the intake cam. this one is in the head and not the block tho.

That will be a tight fit under the intake.

I think I had this backwards in my head when I was thinking about it.. this is that rectangular "tower" that butts-up to the cam shaft, right? The same one posted earlier :banghead: :ohdamn: My mistake.
 
LS-D, Bastard is correct that is into the vent tunnel under the intake cam. this one is in the head and not the block tho.

That will be a tight fit under the intake.

That's why I don't have one, my intake sucks enough to put on as is LOL. FWIW, I'm running 2 -10's off the vc into a pint can, and I have only had it half full and dumped it 2 times this year. It was 35psi, and 9500 all year and I raced it A LOT. As Magnus says, a big part oil system survival is having it sealed up well. He claims that the light weight pins typically used allow the pistons to flex and let the rings leak. I'll believe that with how bad my wiseco's were collapsed and cracked after only 2 seasons. 1 at 450whp and 1 at 600whp. My current motor has the toughest pins available for a 4g, and it is sealed up well. You can gauge how much blow by, by how colored your oil gets. Mine stays nice and gold until 3000mi.

My old wiseco motor would fill the can in a few passes, and I had to spring the dipstick. I turned it 9000, and at 200,000mi old pump was not hurt in anyway. I think that indicates I didn't have a huge oil drainback problem.
 
For what its worth, when I added kiggly's HLA regulator I got less oil in my catch can. With a cold engine (not enough timing) I was getting tons of blowby. So bad that I could taste it going down the track. With that much you'd think my can would fill faster but it doesn't. Its 2X -10s of the VC.
 
Bogus you've saved me some time in the garage LOL. I was planning on digging through the block to see where I could add some more vents. Ill probably add one more to the front cover where my balance shaft block off goes.
 
Bogus you've saved me some time in the garage LOL. I was planning on digging through the block to see where I could add some more vents. Ill probably add one more to the front cover where my balance shaft block off goes.

That block off is exactly where I plan to stick another line to my catch can, at least a -12.
 
Mildly off topic on the drain back. The paint works, but like mentioned you don't want it flaking off, so instead how about powdercoat? It's relatively low friction, can withstand heat better than paint, and is more durable.

Or what about a Teflon type of coating like used in a frying pan? I was trying to find the youtube video of the neo coating (or whatever the stuff is) that doesn't stick at all, but couldn't remember the name of it or find the video. Rather than spending all the time smoothing, the block could have this coating applied and in theory be good to go.
 
Never Wet. Thought about doing this as well but with lack of testing its durability against heat cycling I decided against it. Thought it would be good to spray on the crank pre balancing.
 
Never Wet. Thought about doing this as well but with lack of testing its durability against heat cycling I decided against it. Thought it would be good to spray on the crank pre balancing.

Never Wet is garbage, and oils break it down faster than water.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPQYewEamNg]Rustoleum NeverWet... Buyer BEWARE - YouTube[/ame]
 
Never Wet. Thought about doing this as well but with lack of testing its durability against heat cycling I decided against it. Thought it would be good to spray on the crank pre balancing.

Definitely wasn't never wet. Similar concept, but looking it up it wasn't the same stuff.
 
I was planning to do this, like this;

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opinions:hmm:
 
Looks like something I need to do since my block is needing a build anyway. Why not just run the line to the intake pipe for scavenging? The exhaust thing seems like a long way to go and having to route the hose around the exhaust manifold or whatever else. Would think the intake pipe method would work better. Or is it the fear of blowing oil into the turbo/intercooler/etc.?
 
Looks like something I need to do since my block is needing a build anyway. Why not just run the line to the intake pipe for scavenging? The exhaust thing seems like a long way to go and having to route the hose around the exhaust manifold or whatever else. Would think the intake pipe method would work better. Or is it the fear of blowing oil into the turbo/intercooler/etc.?

If you use BogusSVO's method, the location he chose is at the firewall side of an installed engine ("back on the block"), which would make it easy to get to the exhaust...
 
I didn't even think about the exhaust routing on most cars. Was just thinking about my car which has a side exit exhaust which would require me to route the hose all the way around the motor to do this. I might need to look for a spot on the front of the motor.

Only concern to me with the exhaust scavenging method would be exhaust fumes getting inside the motor and contaminating my oil. But I've never done it so I dunno.
 
i'm going to do it from the head instead of the block
 
Been done with success for years by muscle car guys.

Jay Racing sells a kit.

Vibrant Stainless Steel E-VAC Scavenger Kit [1189] - $35.00 : Jay Racing

I've been thinking about using this as a 3rd vent, do this and one of the vented oil caps the guy on here sells. Go from the oil cap to the exhaust.
Old post I know but it's a good read and maybe deserves a bump.
....I was just looking at this Exhaust Scavenging bung and it says it pulls up to 3" vacuum and that got me wondering, how much vacuum is the turbo pulling in through the intake? Has anyone ever measured it? I run both my vent lines (and still keeping pvc) from the valve cover back to the intake for vacuum scavenging. I tried a vented catch can years ago and was filling up like crazy on that car. Added another VC bung and ran both lines to the intake and blowby nearly stopped.

Not so much the case though with the galant. It has awful blowby even at idle (comp tests 110-125psi). It also has BS deleted. I'm hoping that porting the OFH and adding a Kiggly HLA will help for the time being.
 
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