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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
Richmond_Va.
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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^^ This it what mine on my mustang looked like, after i replaced everything coolant related accept the heatercore

It might not be the easiest solution to fix, but a waterpump definitely sounds like the issue.

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alright guys im at the end of my rope I was driving to work the other day and my car began to overheat!!! it had been running fine previously and when I got it limped home after letting it cool and refilling the water I began troubleshooting it I bought a new thermostat, flow tested the radiator, tried driving it with thermostat out same outcome,water pump is new as well as head gasket since I just rebuilt the entire head... I can let it idle in the driveway all day and its fine but as soon as I take off down the road and build a little boost I starts heating up, it acts like its gonna cool down but then it steadily climbs to hot!!!!! and yes the fans are working and I have hot air when the heat is turned on. and it builds a lot of pressure like its not circulating :banghead: please help me out!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Do a compression test, water pump could be leaking, check for leaks, was the head resurfaced, did you torque the head bolts properly. check the radiator.
 
haven't done compression test yet will do tomorrow. but water pump shows no signs of leaking and head is good ive been driving car for 2 weeks since I rebuilt head and its been running perfect!!! and yes I did the 30-60-90 on the arp studs. and I even did the copper spray on the cometic HG......
 
Why you say is overheating! I mean what do you use as reference to say that you are overheating cause if you are using the stock gauge maybe you need to check the sensor. This happen to me a while ago. On the gauge was all the way up but link showed normal temp. Is the car acting up do you get any CEL!?
 
The head could have been warped before the hg job was done, fans, wp, leaks, fan relay working? Low coolant not much too it, a bad radiator, check leaks, ive had problems too related to water pump, radiator, or a bad head gasket, even being new I had a problem not sure but that was years ago.
 
ive been talking to my mechanic (he lives and breathes dsm's) he thinks since I turned my boost up to 15 on a stock 14b turbo that the turbo is boiling my coolant. and after I hit boost I let off the gas and I can hear the b.o.v and then a squeal noise at the end coming from turbo?????
 
I'm betting on HG since it's a Cometic.

(In my best BogusSVO online voice): Post pics of the head and block surfaces before they were installed
 
ive been talking to my mechanic (he lives and breathes dsm's) he thinks since I turned my boost up to 15 on a stock 14b turbo that the turbo is boiling my coolant.

Sorry, but I don't think that's the case at all. The 14b has been pushed WAAAAYYYYY harder than that!

I'd bet on the Cometic MLS HG as well if the head an blocked weren't prepped right.

But I like ^^ this guy's idea about the radiator cap. I remember a thread earlier his year when a bunch of us swore it was the guys HG and it ended up being his radiator cap. Always start the diagnosis in order from the easiest to the hardest repair and normally you catch it along the way. Saves you pulling a head just to find out later that it was something really simple instead!!!
 
ive been talking to my mechanic (he lives and breathes dsm's) he thinks since I turned my boost up to 15 on a stock 14b turbo that the turbo is boiling my coolant. and after I hit boost I let off the gas and I can hear the b.o.v and then a squeal noise at the end coming from turbo?????

That is 100% not the cause of your overheating.

Common reasons for DSMs to overheat:
Bad radiator cap
Bad thermostat
Clogged radiator
Fans not working properly or not kicking on
Water pump failing
Low on coolant or huge air bubble
Fmic blocking air flow to radiator
Blown head gasket
Heater core leaking
Coolant hoses leaking
Failed harmonic balancer/belt issues
 
Good Morning,

I had this same issue with my 2G, couldn’t figure it out to save my life. But, I kept overheating and I would just fill it with water that was my mistake. I believe that your mechanic is right on, you are boiling the straight water you are putting in there. Try adding a higher mixture of antifreeze, this will raise your boiling point and hopefully fix your overheating problem.

Good luck.
 
^^^^^ that does not sound right at all. Your car shouldn't get hot enough to boil water unless you're making numerous heavy runs on it without a break. Try your radiator cap. I agree it sounds like a head gasket also. If antifreeze fixes it there is another issue causing it to run hotter than it should. More antifreeze would just be like a bandaid. That's just my .02¢
 
Auto Zone rents out their coolant pressure tester. You will also need to rent the import thermostat housing adapter. It is chrome metal and comes in a small white box. Make sure you connect the pressure tester to your radiator cap first to test it. It should hold about 13 psi of pressure before the spring compresses and leaks the excess air out. If your radiator cap is good, then you test the coolant system to make sure that it holds pressure and no fluid leaks out. Connect the import adapter to the pressure tester then twist the import adapter on to the thermostat housing in place of the radiator cap. Start pumping the tester and build the pressure up to the 13 -14 psi range. If your coolant system does not have any leaks, the coolant pressure tester will hold this pressure for 15 minutes or even longer. on my car, it was holding 16 psi of pressure for only 5 minutes, then it would start dropping off till about 9psi. I noticed that there was a small drop of water on the lower radiator hose by the turbo. I tightened up the t-bolt clamp 2 turns and that leak was fixed. I retested and found another leak on the small coolant hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the throttle body. I tightened up that small clamp and now my car holds 18 psi for over 20 minutes on the coolant pressure tester. I also replaced my radiator cap with a Stant cap for an Evo that holds 1.1 bar instead of the 0.9 bar. I recently drove my car on a 18 hour round trip and I had no issues whatsoever.
 
I already took my thermostat out hoping that was the problem but its not. my car is puking so much water out into the coolent overflow that the heater blows cold air...car had gobs of stopaleak in it when i bought it. i replaced the water pump and installed my front mount intercooler, flushed the radiater and put in clean coolent, and its been overheating since then. i have no boost leaks (i tested it). my radiator fan works for sure. proper amount of oil in the car. no water leaks just pukes out into the overflow. i dont see any oil in my water (little stopaleak still in there tho), and i dont see any water in my oil, or bubbles in my oil. car runs great aside from that, but when it starts cold it sounds like a suburu, not firing on all cyclendrs when cold? not sre i that related. new spark plug (bpr7's i beleive) new tps,cat,o2,timing belt(correctly instaled), new oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket. got a glowshift boost gage (set to 11psi). did the maf hack and fuel pump rewire... thats all i can think to say atm... thanks for any help :thumb:
 
temps still rise even on the freeway at 75. and today is a cold overcast day outside. it wont start to really over heat tho untell it pukes out most of the water...
 
The FMIC shouldnt cause the car to over heat, unless its blocking ALOT of the airflow. Ive never had a heat issue with my FMIC.
Maybe a coolant temp sensor. They cause a bunch of weird issues with start ups, and heat.

Seeing as the water pump, and the Thermostat are new, Rad was flushed, and fans work, Id look into electrical temp control, and clogged lines.
Is this strictly water cooled or a 50/50 mix?
As per the puking out of water, replace the radiator cap.
 
I had coolent and a additive called ice or somthing to make it run even colder and it puked all that out so i been putting in strait water tell i figure this out. ya it almost seems as if the upper radiator hose or inlet is clogged. im gonna go check now that its cooled down. ty all. let me know if any1 has more ideas.
 
My first assumption after reading everything you changed would be a head gasket that is blown. If you can do a compression test and leak down test to confirm air being pumped though the coolant system then it would confirm my assumption.
 
yeah i was thinking it might be the head gasket since everything was fine. i have the tools to do a compression test and leak down test so ill do that when i get the chance. and if that is the problem atleast i can make an upgrade out of it and get a multi layerd steel gasket and arp head studs. i have the tools and the know how i just am limited on time. (kids and work). either way ill post the results of the tests on here. ty all
 
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