Automatic Trans upgrade thread

[killercolt]

Go to transmission part USA and get the seal kit for all the clutch packs and input shaft. It is only 94 bux. I already killed two set of Kiggly's front clutches. I believe the seals were leaking which were why they were burning up.
Transmission parts USA Automatic transmission parts

Do not use the John Deere Hygard crap. It will foam up and evaporate. I already destroy one tranny because of this stuff. I don't know if Kiggly was adding stabilizer to the John Deere Hygard but it foamed up and disappear on me. I had at least 10 quarts in the tranny and converter. I noticed some foaming after the 2nd pass but did not know oil can evaporate that quickly. After 7 passes, the tranny stopped shifting. When I drain it, about 1/2 quart came out of the pan. I had zero leak anywhere.


I tried the Castrol Import Tranny oil. It will foam too. One quart of B&M will stop the foaming. I would not recommend it.


My friend is using Valvoline synthetic transmission fluid for import. It has sp4. It has not foam up at all. It need no stabilizer.

I like to see some come out with a better snap ring to hold the each clutch pack together. I noticed the front clutch wearing unevenly. Only 1/2 of the friction surfaces and metal surfaces are wearing out. I believe the clutch pack is deflecting at an angle.

 

[TJCTalon]

Im currently running Valvoline ATF and it seems to be fine. I also put in the black bottle friction modifier as well. What about BG trick shift I believe its called? Any other recomended fluid?

I dont have access to a fancy flushing machine. This will be done in my driveway.

Any other ways I can flush this tranny? Im installing a STM oil cooler kit and forcedfour shift box soon and I want to make sure my tranny is ready for the abuse it may be put through.

 

[J_HEATH]

I run AMSoil racing trans fluid and a bottle of lube guard. I've had zero issues with fluid or temps. I've replace the filter anytime I drain the fluid and all of the clutch packs and seals have been replaced. I also run the large B&M cooler.

In my opinion new seals, clutches, good fluid, filter changes, and a larger cooler with proper ducting will make the trans last.

 

[DWR-DSM]

I run a fully built IPT transmission, a sinister speed TQ (brake boost to over 4.5k), road surge shift box(9.2K shifts), and I run John Deere Hy-Gard Hydraulic/Transmission Oil. This year I would install a tranny cooler with an electric fan and AEM tranny temp gauge.

I feel my tranny is solid and shifts perfectly.

 

[TJCTalon]

Isnt AMSoil very expensive stuff?

What do you guys suggest for doing a tranny flush?

 

[J_HEATH]

Yeah amsoil I get is $12 a quart. What is your transmission worth to you?

I run a bradco converter and english racing/metro trans upgraded valve body and pump. B&M ratchet shifter with kiggly mod and tcu deleted. I use a vacuum pump/air compressor to brake boost at the line. 4.2k stall, 9.5k shifts.

 

[TJCTalon]

Well Im trying to do a TRANSMISSION FLUSH and Im not trying to buy a ton of expensive fluid. Ill keep running valvoline with lupegaurd black bottle.

Again does any one know the best way to do a transmission flush?

 

[mrfister11]

if you are doing this at home without a machine. then the only option you have is to just drop the pan and change filter. and if you wanted to get a little more fluid out you can buy a can of line flush from oreillys. its made by Lubegard part number 19100. they will argue with you that they dont have it or cant find it but it is in their overstock shelf. i run into this problem every time i buy it from a different store. bought many cans.

you just disconnect each cooler line and put on in a pan and the other to the can and just flush it out. i do this on all my transmissions i rebuild.

another thing you might try. i dont know if these torque converters have drains on them but you could drain the converter also.. that would get about 90% of all your fluid out if you could find one

 

[jls_frog]

I flushed my trans by draining the pan and filling it with new. Then unhooking the return line from the trans and putting that into a container. Have some one else in the car and have them run the car for 5-10 sec, until roughly 3qts has come out of the trans. Refill the trans and repeat, normally i do this 3 times to make sure all old fluid is out. Also if you pay for the Amsoil membership you can get a 2.5 gal jug of ATF for $90(if i remember correctly). I also run a bottle of lube gaurd.

 

[TJCTalon]

Which one is the return line? Closest to the firewall or the one at the front?

 

[J_HEATH]

I would do what mrfister11 said. That would be the easiest way of doing it yourself.

Here is an old thead on the subject of flushing a auto trans.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/aut...ow-flush-automatic-transmission-yourself.html

The port closest to the firewall is the return line, the port closest to the front of the car is the feed line.

Also, if you are flushing the trans, note that the converter will hold a quart or 2 that you won't be able to get out. If you happen to pull the trans again I would turn the converter over onto a drain pan and let it sit overnight to ensure all of the old fluid was drained out of it. then add atleast a quart back into it before reinstalling it. This will take time to get a quart into the converter but be patient and try to get a quart of fluid in it.

 

[TJCTalon]

Perfect thanks guys.

Another question. What temp is getting too hot for the trans?

 

[TJCTalon]

Where are you guys getting your stock converters restalled?

 

[J_HEATH]

Where are you guys getting your stock converters restalled?

Several places will do it, IPT, Sinister, Bradco, Hughes, just depends on how much you're willing to spend.

If I was you and had a 2G transmission I would just go with a billet PI converter.

 

[TJCTalon]

PI? Im looking to get rid of this shit stock converter real soon and just need to weigh my options.

Id love a converter I can grow into. Something that can flash quick on smaller turbos and still have the ability to take care of larger turbos if I plan on going larger.

 

[Phantom DSM]

Ipt has high stall torque converters and at 3300 stall from experience, its awesome building full boost off the line On quick spooling turbos which reach full boost in that rpm range makes for a properly matched setup.
If you can find a sweet spot for your FP hta 71 boost rpm, you can still have an enjoyable drag car with streetability..
You can also ask English racing and Metro trans, they are doing wonders with their transmission setups..Im not sure but some of their cars were using hughes converters. Since you have a 2g you can also benefit from having lock up torque converters and if you can drop the cash on a billet unit, even better

 

[MY1GDSM]

I'm looking to get rid of this shit stock converter real soon and just need to way my options.

Just wanted to stop in and say to this

OH and to actually add something useful...

PI = Precision Industries

 

[farley13]

What kind of Rpm are u guys turning through the traps and on what size tire in third?

 

[Catbox_95]

Great thread, good info.

I have a Precision Industries billet torque converter, recently installed. Kigley flex plate, TCU reprogrammed. I don't build boost until close to 4,000 rpm, so I was in desperate need of a higher stall. With the stock torque converter, I could stall up to 2,400 rpm. With the Precision Industries billet 3,300 rpm stall, I can get maybe 100 more rpm (2,500), then it pushes through the brakes. It really feels hardly different at all from the stock converter. Any advice?

 

[91mits]

hey guys, have a 1g auto awd, maxed out evo 3 16g setup, the trans has been rebuilt prior to my ownership of the car, had a shift kit installed as well. also had dave from foreign muscle reprogram my tcu for full line pressure, and i cant tell u how much difference this makes in wot shifts..also id recommend a larger cooler for the autos and some synthetic fluid for better lubrication inside the internals. peace

im in the process of installing a larger trans cooler, and am thinking of installing a temp gauge, had a question for the guys who run a temp gauge, where did you install the sensor? i was thinking the return line, but want opinions on this and also whats the best gauge/sensor to get? thanks.


nvm...read the thread and got the answer. thanks

 

[11Banger]

Does anyone have a link to a auto swap thread... Just the parts needed, I have an idea of what I need just wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything

 

[black97spyder]

I was told by Mike at sinister speed that I should have a fan on my trans cooler if i started to see temps above 180* but 200* is getting in the danger zone.... Of course I have a sinister speed stall so that makes my temps higher than a stock converter would, so i have the biggest trans cooler IPT offers . I see about 140* after the cooler on a normal day in town, in heavy traffic I see about 165* after the cooler

 

[J_HEATH]

Also, a good idea is to build a splash shield like cover and rivet it to the bumper to help force air to the cooler and not bypass it. Its pretty simple, you can find a roll of thin aluminum at any hardware store as well as a rivet gun and rivets.

at my MS paint drawing, but hopefully you get the idea.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[11Banger]

That is rather confusing ^

 

[91mits]

haha thats a funny drawing