The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

Your most recent welding pics

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I would like to applaud those of you with Miller welders.

I am not a fan at all of cheaper models, I have had experience with then. There is a huge separation in performance between an Everlast and a Miller.

I weld pipe for a living, my tickets get me into a lot of good jobs. I have to execute perfect joints to be hired, and then keep it up because most are being shot. Practice and patience are very important.

I know welders are expensive, I know all this isn't cheap. But please keep this in mind when you purchase.
 
Dynasty's are amazing, especially with aluminum. Huge difference from old transformer machines.



I use a dual purge regulator for my tig at work and home. They are like $300-350 to for one. That is costly and not really needed but just an FYI on what I use. I set my purge high 50+ on the root. Then more like 20 after, just to cool the weld and keep it bathed. I like to know the purge is pushing out of my joint on the root.



Keep practicing, and follow procedure :)
 
All millers aren't made in states anymore. They are "assembled" in USA and probably use imported parts.
The dynasty 200 seems like a sweet machine, but I will take the htp 221 anyway. Same performance, more features (as ability to run a non a symmetrical waveform, that the dynasty 350 can do) and it saves me $1000.
And it's made in Italy. The dual voltage model is $2995 and has a power correction factor and will only pull 26 amps max. The 220v model is only 2495 shipped with a torch, foot pedal, superflex cable etc etc.
The dynasty is $2999 with no accessories. Last I checked.

Dynasty's are amazing, especially with aluminum. Huge difference from old transformer machines.



I use a dual purge regulator for my tig at work and home. They are like $300-350 to for one. That is costly and not really needed but just an FYI on what I use. I set my purge high 50+ on the root. Then more like 20 after, just to cool the weld and keep it bathed. I like to know the purge is pushing out of my joint on the root.



Keep practicing, and follow procedure :)

I may have a cheaper option for the dual. Give me a few months.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Thats from both ends, it may not look purdy on the inside but oh well i think it'll do it's job. Kinda what i get for a ghetto garage and purge setup. Haha

Bud, it was only a reference that canadians use metric.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Are any of the guys in this thread from the new hampshire or new mexico area? im seriously contemplating going to school for welding and metal fab, and having a hard time choosing the school...
 
Looks good. I will see if I can pics of mine from my hx40. I used a 120* pipe and vband.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Thought I had more pics, but I guess not. Sorry.
 
Tried out some stainless tonight for a manifold. Why is it I get grey looking welds and not full penetration? I thought grey was too hot, but if it doesn't penetrate at all how does that make sense?
20cfh of flow, tried a #6 and #8 cup and 8 seconds of post flow, did 8 dips and let the post flow go on. Didn't get much color at all. Even tried a cap pass and it ended up being convex.

I am starting to realize why you guys use .045 filler it's such a small bevel.

Pics to follow when my camera charges.
 
Damn only 50 amps? few days into tig welding and i dont think i have been below 85ish. Maybe thats part of my problem.

Nope, urbansmoker is talking about stainless. Stainless uses WAY less amps than anything else. You can build a manifold on 60-90amps all day long.

General rule of thumb is 1 amp per .001 thickness. So your intercooler pipe is probably .063 so you use 'about' 63amps. Typically a little more on aluminum helps to get the puddle started.
 
Here are the pics of my first 2 attempts at stainless sch10
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I tried dipping, I tried the new tig pen that I just got and I tried the lay wire.
 
Looks similar to mine. Are you purging? And it honestly looks like you might need MORE gas.

I find it helpa with those weld els to let the material cool a little between passes, do 1" let cool for 30 secods do another inch. Keeps nice color

What i usually do is small circular oscillations with the dip technique. Leave the torch over the weld to let the post flow help cool it as well

Are you using a wire brush and or acetone prior to welding? A cleaner surface might help. I'd also stay on 60 amps.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You can see the blue heat affected zone thats whereni stopped and let
Cool for 30 seconds. It's a thicker metal do it doesn't warp as bad as 16gauge then start again, basically givenit 30 seconds everytime you need to reposition.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looks similar to mine. Are you purging? And it honestly looks like you might need MORE gas.

I find it helpa with those weld els to let the material cool a little between passes, do 1" let cool for 30 secods do another inch. Keeps nice color

What i usually do is small circular oscillations with the dip technique. Leave the torch over the weld to let the post flow help cool it as well

Are you using a wire brush and or acetone prior to welding? A cleaner surface might help. I'd also stay on 60 amps.

It was only a 6 cup and 8 cup and 20cfh. So I am sure a gas lens would have helped a lot.
I let it cool for maybe 10seconds and no cleaning. Lost my brush LOL

If I have time I am going to get a new brush on the way home and try again. Will post up the pics too.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top