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10.7@127. Fp3052 auto 1g daily driver.

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I would definitely say the ethanol is making the spool difference. I run 60% E-85 on my setup and when I put pump gas in and drive the couple miles to my house to blend in the E-85 the car starts to get really lazy on spool up. I normally hit 35 psi on my HX35 by 4200, and I doubt I could do that on pump gas! I have never run just pump on this turbo and detuned my car to compare, but now I'm tempted...
 
Good info Nate. I havent tried 93 oct since I was on the 16g so I wouldnt know its effects on spool with a larger turbo.

You running dual flex plates yet on your setup? I just found the limit to the single stocker today..ugh
 
Good info Nate. I havent tried 93 oct since I was on the 16g so I wouldnt know its effects on spool with a larger turbo.

You running dual flex plates yet on your setup? I just found the limit to the single stocker today..ugh

Ugh. Broken plate sucks! I'm running stacked stock plates.
 
Stock untouched converter? What fluid are you using? I've noticed as my trans temps get higher the converter tends to stall up a little easier. I attribute it to the fluid thinning a little as it warms up.

Great passes as usual Nate! Nice and simple setup, that's exactly how I like my car to be :thumb:
 
Stock untouched converter? What fluid are you using? I've noticed as my trans temps get higher the converter tends to stall up a little easier. I attribute it to the fluid thinning a little as it warms up.

Great passes as usual Nate! Nice and simple setup, that's exactly how I like my car to be :thumb:

Converter and trans are the original oem untouched parts the car was built with in 92. Only trans mod is welding the center diff for strength.

Trans fluid is napa-sourced generic synthetic. It's nothing special at all. Same fluid in it since the beginning. I drove the car home from work then right to the track, through tech, and then made passes. Trans fluid should have been plenty hot after an hour of driving and street beating on it. I have a hard time seeing trans fluid temp making any significant difference, as previous days I have trailered the car to the track and my first pass with cold trans fluid stalls up just like normal (always been on alky though).

Did you guys look at the log? 15 seconds vs 6 seconds!
 
Congrats Nate!

I've got a question, how are you launching the car? Antilag, foot brake, ebrake, what is your technique?

Thanks,

Jeremy

Congrats!

Question, how are you launching the car? Foot brake, ebrake, antilag, what is your technique?
 
I pull around the water box, light both bulbs. Shift to neutral and do a throttle blip to capture the most vacuum, left foot on the brake pedal hard when the vac gauge hits 20inhg. That gets me maximum brake force multiplication in the booster.

As rom drops back to idle, shift the lever into D, throttle goes WOT. Light goes green. I sit there for a lightning fast 4-8 second reaction time, and let off the foot brake pedal when boost gauge hits my intended launch point (generally try for 20psi). Most often the car in opposite lane is already past the 1/8 mile when I launch.

I have a forced four shift box, so at this point, all the "driving" is done and I just look out the window.

No Anti lag or clutch switch setup
No rev limiter, 2step, or ignition cut box
No ebrake
All stock oem single piston brakes, napa pads
 
wow i've missed this quite a bit.

what you guys think of a T4 5858 on a stock motor? too big to stall up?
 
With the news that our local track, island Dragway, is closing for good, iv decided to keep on with modding this car. My plan was to de-mod this car and build my yellow 1g since it has safety equip, but is not streetable. But no point in building a track only car when the local track goes away.

Anyway..I'm going to put some effort into maximizing this red 1g as a streetcar and try to knock off a 9.99 with it.

Plans:
2.3l bottom end...allows bigger cams, harder launch, and helps my worry of blowing up the stock bottom end.

272 intake cam, ported head, valve train upgrades, adj cam gears: should improve top end power.

Bigger intercooler pump and hose size...I think the cooling is limited by my dinky bilge pump and 1/2 hose.

Fuel upgrades: 044 pump, 1650 blue max injectors, -6 lines, billet filter. Will allow me to run on straight ethanol and have some headroom to fuel a dry nitrous hit.

Dry nitrous to make a bit more power than the fp3052 can push.

Minor weight loss...likely door bars, chromoly crossmember. Everything else is already gone that isn't needed street equipment

It's still going to be a streetcar, much like Max's, plan to get it all tuned up on the street so when I can make an all day trip to one of the dragstrips still open, get right to full blast passes..and get kicked
 
Nate, I heard OK4WD was interested in buying Island Dragway and redoing it. Hopefully that pans out. Good luck with both cars.

That would be great, but from what I'm hearing, the EPA is involved and serious soil remediation is going to happen. If someone takes it over, I still wouldn't expect them to open till '14.
 
Update: I drove this car all winter as an everyday commuter without any issues (just had to replace alternator & fix a leaking water pump/pipe oring.

The car went into the garage last night for some spring modifications:
-6 fuel lines & Bosch 044 inline pump
Dry nitrous setup
1650 injectors (likely only put them in at the track)
FP3065 cartridge (replacing the 3052)
HKS 272 intake cam

Hopefully will hit the track June 16th at Atco, will see how much the original 6bolt bottom end holds up. Mid summer I'm going to swap in a built 2.3L and a fresh ported/modded head.
 
Nate, very cool! Our cars are so similar! I just ran 10.82@127mph on the same turbo. I'm excited to see your improvements from upgrading the cam and turbo!

Why are you going to the 2.3L? You'll be spinning it to its limit if you take it to the track and run faster than 130mph. Just a thought. You (and your trans) will be much happier with the nitrous. When you spend 10+ seconds building boost on the line, you are cooking your trans fluid. By the end of the track your clutches and fluid are waaay hot, which is bad. How big is your trans cooler? Do you have a temp gauge on it?
 
Update: I drove this car all winter as an everyday commuter without any issues (just had to replace alternator & fix a leaking water pump/pipe oring.

The car went into the garage last night for some spring modifications:
-6 fuel lines & Bosch 044 inline pump
Dry nitrous setup
1650 injectors (likely only put them in at the track)
FP3065 cartridge (replacing the 3052)
HKS 272 intake cam

Hopefully will hit the track June 16th at Atco, will see how much the original 6bolt bottom end holds up. Mid summer I'm going to swap in a built 2.3L and a fresh ported/modded head.
Who is doing head ???
 
Nate, very cool! Our cars are so similar! I just ran 10.82@127mph on the same turbo. I'm excited to see your improvements from upgrading the cam and turbo!

Why are you going to the 2.3L? You'll be spinning it to its limit if you take it to the track and run faster than 130mph. Just a thought. You (and your trans) will be much happier with the nitrous. When you spend 10+ seconds building boost on the line, you are cooking your trans fluid. By the end of the track your clutches and fluid are waaay hot, which is bad. How big is your trans cooler? Do you have a temp gauge on it?

Well, the frank reason for the 2.3 is because "that's what I have, and it's in "unsellable" condition". I bought & parted out a car with a smoking 2.3l forged motor, shop that built it folded over some oil rings during initial assembly. Scuffed cyl walls. I think I can hone it and replace the rings and use it. But I would hesitate to sell it to anyone like that.

As for rpm....in the white gvr4 I "setup & tune", we run 9.3 @ 147mph on the 2.3l with cheapo eagle rods up to 9000rpm and it stayed together fine. That was on 24" tires in 3rd gear. I'm really not worried about trap rpm, as I'm not going to e track very often. The 2.3l will really spruce up the spool and bottom end power with the bigger turbo for street use. Might even make it spool without nitrous too with the Orem converter.

If I was spending $ and building a motor from scratch, I would rethink the 100mm crank. But I'm effectively spending $100 on rings to utilize the shortblock, and I'll trust spraying hard on a forged piston motor too.

Trans temp: no gauge & a dinky cooler. It's an area that needs improvement for sure. Trans is otherwise stock beyond the welded diff.
 
Got the fp3065 cartridge swapped in, with no other changes: It won't spool past 3psi on the converter while running 93oct pump gas. Booo.

Will try ethanol first, but looks like I'll have to give it a little dry bottle on the line until the 2.3l goes in.
 
Minor update: I swapped out the HKS 272* exhaust cam for a stock camshaft, and while it idles slightly smoother, it is still stuck at 3psi of boost on the converter with the FP3065.

Planning to go run it at island tomorrow night with hopes that a blend of ethanol fuel and ice in the intercooler tank will magically wake up the spool on the converter.
 
Good luck Nate! Hopefully it works out, might be time to look into a different converter.

Nope...no way I'm changing the converter out. I'd rather fine tune the power/spool to launch right on the stock converter than throw $800 or more out for a converter "upgrade" that just allows for more rpm and slips away power. At least in the power/turbo size that I can make the free stock converter work out.


All moot anyway...this red 92 is being de-modded. I'm taking most of the good parts off to out in my yellow 1g, with the red streetcar getting a 16g for daily commuting. Yellow car will get the fp3065 setup, liquid ic, 272 cams, dsmlink, ect.
 
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