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ECUflash First Flashed DSM ECU! (98/99 Flashing FAQ)

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Oh I forgot ditch, I've already fixed the inverted cam sensor problem with my car. Just hit me. I did the this to use evo 8 cams in my car. I can post pix if your interested in this. you dont need a 1g cas.. You just have to change the position of the cam sensor timing plate. I've done this and my car runs perfect.
(Edit:^i may be looking at this part wrong let me think about it)


So only i'd need to address would be the fuel pump issue. Which the way mine is wired may or may not be a, problem. Even if it was it, would be a, simple fix. I could just wire,it to one of the switches on my console which would give me a killswitch(on/off) for my fuel.

So essentially, it would be nothing for me to use it in my car.
 
Maybe this will help you:

I simply added a switch to turn the Fuel Pump Relay on manually.
(You need to ground the Fuel Pump Relay wire going to the ecu, to turn it on.)

Jeff O. from DSMChips later converted the Spyder ECU for me, to operate like a normal turbo ecu.
By adding a SMD transistor or resistor, but unfortunately he is no longer in business.

You could also use a 5 volt relay. So the 5 volt signal from the Spyder ecu, closes the relay, and grounds the Fuel Pump Relay ecu wire.

Besides the Fuel Pump Relay/Fuel Pump Module output differences the two ecus are exactly the same.
I used the Spyder ecu in my Turbo car for more then a year with no issues.
Show Posts - ceddy

I am interested in what you did so you didn't have to use the 1g cas though. If my 1g cas ever goes out, it would be nice to just eliminate it.
 
I forgot to post this last night. I was worried about these differences.
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You can put a small relay inside the ecu and you wont have to worry about any external wiring. I have a spare spyder ecu and a micro relay laying around. I'll try it and see how it is.
 
Anyone ever notice the spyder actually has, an extra ecu plug in? Like its the far left or right plug for the ecu, there are two plugs in the harness for the, same port.
 
No I man in the harness not the ecu itself. There is, an extra harness plug. Ill take a pic next time I'm next to the spyder.

I know the ecu plugs are the same,as the turbo.
 
I am curious, what do you have to do to fix those pin-outs since the non-turbo uses chassis ground? I assume you just make some ground wires to plug in there, and then switch out pin 92 on the harness to pin 82, then just remove in 13 and 91 on the harness?
 
I am curious, what do you have to do to fix those pin-outs since the non-turbo uses chassis ground? I assume you just make some ground wires to plug in there, and then switch out pin 92 on the harness to pin 82, then just remove in 13 and 91 on the harness?

I'll check it before installing the ecu. just need to look at the wire color
 
I know there are a few write ups on converting a non-turbo to using a turbo ecu, but I haven't seen any actual guides for putting a spyder ECU in a turbo. When you are done MJcanada, you should make a guide.
 
I will.

I have to do both actually. Because I want to park the gst and winter project it and use the spyder for a daily. So have to put a turbo ecu in the, spyder.
 
I know there are a few write ups on converting a non-turbo to using a turbo ecu, but I haven't seen any actual guides for putting a spyder ECU in a turbo. When you are done MJcanada, you should make a guide.

If you know where, they, are please link one of the write ups. It will aid me in both.
 
Has anyone had problem with code p0450 popping after flashing there car? trying to get the car to pass emissions and I've never had this code pop up till now. I had the p0446 come up but that was because i have a 97. I know it's a down low kinda thing but has anyone cracked it to just set readyness codes yet? it'll make life a lot easier for me being that i gotta pass it by tomorrow. pm me me if anyone is willing to help with that.
 
Any code that you don't want to pop up, scroll down to the binary bit sections and turn it off.

but will that allow it to pass emissions? i saw where i could turn it off, but i'm working on limited time to get it inspected.
 
Nobody has posted in this thread in a while... so, how are all the "flashers" doing? How are you guys tuning for cruising? Are you guys just turning off closed loop or setting the open loop threshold really low? Or are you guys using an output from the LC-1 to simulate the front O2 AFR which is basically the same as running openloop...?
 
Is there any particular issue you are having? Car running lean, rich, or surging?
 
No. The car is running ok. I'm just tuning for gas mileage right now and wanted to see how everyone else does it seeing that there's a few different ways and what the advantages/disadvantages are. Right now I just have closed loop turned off and have a leaner value in the cells between 30-80 load and 2-4k rpm in the high octane fuel maps.
 
Im getting super frustrated with trying to get a tune with ecuflash. At first I was able to atleast get an idle tune. I come back a week later to try and set a base tune and now I keep getting the message "less than 5v". I tried multiple times and it still wouldnt connect, I uninstalled the software and reinstalled it and still no luck. Im not sure if it could be a ground or what but Im at the point where Im ready to scrap it and just go back to my chipped eprom ecu for now and then get link. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Im getting super frustrated with trying to get a tune with ecuflash. At first I was able to atleast get an idle tune. I come back a week later to try and set a base tune and now I keep getting the message "less than 5v". I tried multiple times and it still wouldnt connect, I uninstalled the software and reinstalled it and still no luck. Im not sure if it could be a ground or what but Im at the point where Im ready to scrap it and just go back to my chipped eprom ecu for now and then get link. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Use a multimeter and check your voltage on the re-flash wire. Should be at about 12v when reading the ECU, but it wont sit at 12v constantly, though you should be getting something.
 
Then you need to check your wire and make sure it is connected to the correct pin on the ECU, and make sure it is making contact. As long as you are using the right pin, you should have voltage on that line.
 
And can you please clear something up for me? Am I supposed to solder the wire to end of the male headphone jack? I previously had it plugged into a female headphone jack and then had that wired into the ecu. I attempted to create some drawings of how I had it hooked up and also another method that I've seen. Sorry they arent perfect but Im at work and can't really create a masterpiece at the moment. LOL
 

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Depends what connectors you have on hand...

the Phone jack gettign a good connection can be an issue

Ideally something like this is going to be the most fool proof(Obviously going to the car's harness)... .

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Or if you have a connector like this just remove the pin and Solder it to the wire you ran to pin 79 or put the pin in the harness directly if you have the room length of wire to do so
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Or if it's this one do the same and Run a/the Male to male Phone Jack to it

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(basically do the same above in the first pic with what ever you have on hand)
 
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