Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[drewb]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[Greenie]

i agree with everyone else i would check the battery terminals

 

[JulioTavares]

The status of the flywheel (the starter ring is loose... ) :

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Better than CW!

 

[crxdsmdan]

Had my buddy solder on new caps, the old ones that were on the board were burned underneath and smelled REALLY bad.

Gotta check the ISC and test it out, if the ISC checks out ok and it still has issues Ill plug in the code reader, if it continues to delay on picking up codes ill replace the whole ecu.

And if that doesn't fix it .. .. im trading it for a jeep.

 

[Firsts tuner]

Wow it looks like someone threw a handful of nuts and bolts in your bell housing. It looks like something scattered around in there. Did you take a good inventory of your tools last time you worked on it?

 

[JulioTavares]

Wow it looks like someone threw a handful of nuts and bolts in your bell housing. It looks like something scattered around in there. Did you take a good inventory of your tools last time you worked on it?

Yes . 1~ year without opening the bell housing.
I guess the flywheel heated faster than the starter ring, causing it to expand first and popping the bolt that secures the starter ring in place. But it's just a guess.

I hope changing the FW will make the car run again.

 

[Eclipse Freak]

It lives!

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

It lives!

For the sake of others searching in the future, what was the problem/solution?

 

[Eclipse Freak]

The coil was not giving a hot enough spark to the plugs, rigged up a 2g coil and it fired almost right up. Bad coil was it

 

[jetoutant]

Ok my 91 Eclipse GS non turbo 2.0L is bone stock has only 66,956 miles on it and looks and ran like it was just a few months old.I know very little about the DSM electrical systems (sorry was a honda guy for long time). Water pump started leaking so I did the usual timing belt and balance shaft belt replacement with the water pump replacemnet. The car was running with no issues before the water pump started to leak and while it was leaking. The car ran great for about 2 days after water pump and belts where replaced. On the 3rd day after the work was done the car just stalled while driving at about 35MPH and about 15 minutes of driving would not restart in neutral while costing it off the road into a parking lot got it in to the parking lot tryed a couple of time to start it in park crank tryed starting but no start waited a little while checked all fluids evey thing seems in good conditions sat back in the driver seat tryed starting again it started check engine light is on and ran the rest off the day with non issues. Day 4 started up in the morning with a little hesitation engine light did not turn on until it was running fro about 3 minutes drove it down the tollway to my destination and back with no problems about 2 hours of drive time at about 60 to 65 MPH drove maybe 8miles total that day. Day 5 car started up with little hesitation again engine light on took off to my destination after 3 miles at 35 MPH car stalls again this time no start at all. Left the car ther with plans of abandonment even took the plates off it and radio out. My parents are the loan holder on the car so they had it picked up and taken to their house they had a mechanic friend look at it all 4 cylinder are loaded ith gas syphoned the gas out of the cylinders and found out all 4 injectors spray when you turn the key.

So the car don't start all 4 injectors spay when you go to start the car.
We plan on checking the codes in the ECU and also plan on taking out the ECU to inspect the inside see if it went bad.

Are there any other electrical items besides the coolant temp sensor I should have checked out while we are doing the diagnostics

dumb ? what is a isc

thank you to any one with suggestions and pics would be helpfull as well

 

[majik2k5]

I've seen a nightmarish fuel pressure problem that caused this before. But I don't see any fuel systems upgrades that could lead to that kind of problem that he was having. I would start by checking out the resistor pack and make sure you have no issues there.

As far as an ISC, that is the idle speed controller that's located on your throttle body.

 

[jetoutant]

where is the resister pack located

 

[shsking11]

I have a 6 bolt swapped 98 gsx. It has an eprom in it with link. I will explain a little history with the car.

Initially I had a 98 black box eprom, and the car started fine with no issues. I drove it with a base tune until I found a good deal on an eprom with link. I then swapped everything out and didn't get any start, tried to begin logging with dsmlink and the ecu would not send any signal, being said I sent it in to ECMlink and it was fixed. Now that I have it back from ECMlink the car is allowing me to log.

It IS getting spark, but not getting fuel. And i'm not sure why.
I checked the MPI relay with a 12v source and that was good. Used a test light and found out the fuel pump was getting fuel, however it would not turn over. I then thought it was the pump. I pulled the pump and tested it; and for some reason it worked... So.. my question is; any leads you guys can think of? I have also checked all engine grounds, tested pins 12 and 25 at ecu, as well as fuses.

When on livefeed the duty cycle percentage is reading below 1%, but i know my fuel pump, is getting power, and the relays aren't bad.

Here is a small list of relevant mods

FP Green
FIC 950cc
Wally 255
Fuel Lab AFPR
EPROM W/ Link
Pump gas


Any input?

 

[fierosail]

on the firewall right of the battery . it has a silver cover and wight wires going to it

 

[pauleyman]

The car ran great for about 2 days after water pump and belts where replaced. On the 3rd day after the work was done the car just stalled while driving at about 35MPH and about 15 minutes of driving would not restart

This is the biggest clue. Did you go back and check the timing marks?

 

[majik2k5]

This is the biggest clue. Did you go back and check the timing marks?

That was my first thought, that maybe the belt jumped a tooth or two. But I don't believe the timing being off would cause all four injectors to spray simultaneously.

 

[chadillac2820]

I say transistor or ecu failure. Do all four continue to spray simultaneously while cranking?

 

[majik2k5]

It's been awhile since I've toyed with DSMLink, but I had similar issues with my old 2g and the CAS. I had the option to adjust the car for the sensor via DSMLink and that resolved my issues. Not sure if the new versions have the same interface, but if so that would be a good place to start.

 

[jetoutant]

yes all four continue to spray simultaneously while cranking. Ecu looks good and smells good funny thing is it is a stock ecu and has the 105c capacitors allready in it no leaks from capacitors just got a call from my dad just as I was typing this the ECU is a manufactures rebuild according to his mechanic friend there was a number of some sort on the ECU verafied it mechanic friend is having a electronic GURU friend check it out and fix it if needed.

Is there a chance that The transister pack could be bad as well
would a bad coolant temp sensor make all four inj. continue to spray simultaneously while cranking

 

[shsking11]

Hmmm. I didn't see anything that made me curious but I'll look. Car is also on speed density of that helps.

Does anybody else have other input?

 

[majik2k5]

No. The coolant temperature sensor would not cause a problem with the fuel injectors.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I've seen bad coolant temp sensors cause flooding. Don't rule it out.

 

[Arthris]

I had similar issues with my car when my CAS was bad. But instead of injectors it was my plugs would fire either simultaniously or very rapidly. Good troubleshoot method is to pull the CAS off and spin it by hand. unplug the fuel pump so ## not dumping fuel into the intake and spin it slowly. You should here all the injectors click. Also at the same time pull the pugs out and lay them so that there on some sort of bare metal such as the intake manifold and watch them as well. You should here the injectors fire and see two plugs fire then the other two fire. This can help to pinpoint where a problem could lie.

 

[blakkat]

check the crank sensor for the no start issue. i know on some vehicles the injectors will all spray if there is no cam sensor signal

 

[93 gsx skidz]

i just put my head back on with a mls gasket and started it and it reved high up to 2000 rpm and then died down and shut off it wont stay running even if you give it gas. can someone help me figure this out. i did an egr delete but the car ran fine before i took the head off but it bent valves that is why i took it off due to the timing belt slipping.