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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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redid the timing on my 1g talon, replaced ALL sensors, everything is new. car doesn't start.

when i installed the new timing belt kit i left the oil pump pulley off because i didn't think it matters.

question: does the oil pump pulley have to be aligned with everything else?

thanks!!
 
It won't cause a no start condition, but it's a really bad idea. Especially if you still have balance shafts. I don't understand why you would neglect something like the oil pump being in the correct phase, especially when it's so easy to do correctly. Not busting your balls, but there is a mark it's supposed to line up with for a reason.
 
It will start, no matter.

Phasing does not matter if you have no balance shafts.

If have balance shafts and oil pump gear is out of phase, the engine will be sure to let you know what it thinks of you and your repair work.

...Say bye-bye to your motor mounts and a comfortable DD!
 
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Did you mix up any plugs by any chance when you replaced the sensors? Some plugs are exactly the same as others. What did you replace?
 
i wasn't the one to do it this time, i left it to my uncle. he said it shouldn't matter where the oil pump is but i figured it has the markings to line up for a reason.

- can it be the oil pump pulley cause such a bad vibration that the knock sensor picks it up and keeps the car from starting? sorry if that's a stupid question, but it seems to make sense in theory and ive tested EVERYTHING on this car, i cant figure out what else it could be.

he mentioned he put fuel in the spark plugs and it started but we tested out everything in the fuel system and everything tested ok. we did it again when i got home and the car seemed like it wanted to start but never did after.

guess i gotta go back to basics and start from square one again.

-timing was way off before, my best guess is the ECU needs to be reset perhaps and the CAS readjusted? would an out of place CAS cause a no start or just bad idle/misfire?
 
if it was way off u could have bent a valve

Not if the oil pump is the only thing not lined up.

I'm not sure if you were suggesting a compression test with the rest of that barely legible sentence, but if so... it's a horrible idea to do a compression test if you suspect bent valves. If they are bent, do you really want to keep cranking the engine over and possibly smacking the pistons into bent valves and doing more damage?

A leak-down test is a much better option.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html
 
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Was helping a friend with a no start problem.Everything seem to be fine,the motor had gas,spark and he never checked compression! Come to find out all intake valves were bent,rocker arms were loose,but the motor turned fast and gave no sign of anything wrong.As stated before I would say to check compression!
 
As stated before I would say to check compression!

And as I stated just 3 posts up...

... it's a horrible idea to do a compression test if you suspect bent valves. If they are bent, do you really want to keep cranking the engine over and possibly smacking the pistons into bent valves and doing more damage?

A leak-down test is a much better option.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html
 
This may sound harsh but if you uncle doesn't know DSMs I would be the timing isn't right. Double check the marks and the tensioner. You also did not state if you have balance shafts. If you do you must put the oil pump not only in time but in phase. If you aren't sure what this is go to any of the writeups, vfaq.com etc. If the car jumped time significantly you would likely bend valves. Do not do a compression test. Do a leakdown if anything. The fact that the car reacted to fuel manually placed in the cylinders is promising. Makes me want to believe the injectors aren't firing. There are a 100 different reasons for what you are describing but the first one I would check is timing. Mechanical timing not ignition timing.
 
Update:

I've put 100 more miles on the car - problem has gotten no better; less gas in tank.

I checked resistance across the ECT sensor terminals, and that's in specs when cold. (I didn't check it hot, keep reading)

I got my hands on an OBD-II scanner and the computer threw 3 codes:

P0170: Fuel Trim
P0125: Insufficient Coolant temp for closed loop fuel control
P0170: Fuel Trim (Repeat, I know)

Freeze frame data shows the fuel system IS running under closed loop, and the ECT sensor was reporting 190°F, which confirms the sensor is good when hot. If the ECT sensor IS bad, it's intermittent. I'm not sure why it would have thrown code P0125.

Freeze frame data also shows the short term and long term fuel trim percentages in the double digits: 17.1% and 12.5%, respectively. This co-incides with the VERY prominent smell of fuel after all attempts to start via starter (which always fail).

If she's running so rich that the spark plugs are getting fouled, that would explain the misfire conditions at low RPM.

I'll triple check for disconnected vacuum lines tomorrow.

I'll also check the upstream O2 sensor. I made no effort to protect the sensor while everything was taken apart over the months, so it could be contaminated, or could have been when I put never-seize on the threads. I've also got a very prominent exhaust leak, but this should be downstream of the sensor. I'll see if that's an issue as well.

I found out my local O'Reilly's recently added compression testers to their loaner-tool library. If everything checks out with the O2 sensor and exhaust leak, I'll move on to the compression test.

Any more input?
 
I have DSM Link. When I tried to run a log the lap top recognized the port that the cable was hooked to but I got an error msg saying " IO failed Command Timed Out". I can't get any info from the ECU.

I updated the driver for the serial to usb adapter I bought and checked that the correct port was configured. If I change usb ports the DMS link software recognizes the change but still gives the time out error.

Now I'm wondering if my car won't start because the DSM Link ECU chip has fried.

Going to try a different serial to usb adapter.

Still waiting for new USB/Serial adapter to arrive
 
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My 95 Eclipse RS will not start. It has been sitting in my driveway for about 3 weeks while I was getting all the exhaust parts in and it started just fine before I started installing the exhaust parts. I installed a aftermarket header with down pipe and a high flow cat. The car has a check engine light on but, I don't know what is wrong and I don't have one of those orange testers that you hook under your dash. I even took the spark plugs out and cleaned them and even cleaned the O2 sensor by the header. If anybody could help me with this problem that would be great.
 
Exhaust installation has nothing to do with the car not starting unless the system isn't doing it's job of "exhausting". Even then it would likely start, run for a few seconds, and slowly shut off.

Your car doesn't care if it has an exhaust system at all.
 
Is it turning over and wont start?

Yes, It turns over but wont start. It seems like sometimes it wants to start but it doesnt.

Exhaust installation has nothing to do with the car not starting unless the system isn't doing it's job of "exhausting". Even then it would likely start, run for a few seconds, and slowly shut off.

Your car doesn't care if it has an exhaust system at all.

Yeah, your right.

I can smell gas sometimes when I'm trying to start it.
 
If you can smell fuel it's likely not getting spark. Check the coil and the cam/crank position sensor(s).

I bought a new coil about 3 months ago. Could it be a faulty one? Where is the cam / crank position sensor? I haven't had this car for a long time so I really don't know where things are.
 
really try to pull that code. check for fuel and spark. is it possible a o2 sensor got cut or grounded out. that could also do it. gl
 
I got it running today. I charged up the battery yesterday and it had enough juice to turn the engine over but, I could tell it was going dead so, today I charged it up for about 3 - 4 hours and I went outside and turn the key and it started. I don't really know how it started but, it did. I guess it was a low battery. Thank you all for helping me with this problem.
 
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