93 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Auto

[J_HEATH]

Not really needed (yet) but since I was replacing the battery box I decided to go ahead and install a battery cutoff switch. Located where the hatch lock was.

 

[tron2119]

You are my inspiration! You help me stay focused on my build and give me a good direction to go in. Thanks for posting all of your progress. I can't wait to see how it does at the track!

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Great looking build!!! Those Kosei wheels look great! Just never see them anymore!

 

[J_HEATH]

Thanks for the Kudo's guys.

Small update, I finally got the car somewhat retuned. Jason Story (UnknoWn tuning) came over and got the car set and Idling with the new injectors. With the ID1000's he got the car to Idle at 750rpms compared to 900 with the FIC 1650's! We just took the car for a quick spin and he got the AFR's to 12.1.1 throughtout every gear and boost is currently set at just 20psi. We didn't have time to actually go out and really tune it with the nitrous and high boost. Tuesday August 14th we are supposed to go and do that.

On another note, I took the car out a couple nights later to tinker with the launching setup (LinkV3 NLTS for auto) and without the staging brake, just on the brakes I got it to easily go to 3.8k and build full boost (20psi) and with just the foot brake it held fine. I'm going to raise the limit from 4k to 4.5 and see how it does at 4.2k. When I launched it at around 3.8K it shot out and then feel on its face. This is of course on street tires, no nitrous, on VP Q16.

Also, during this testing session the talon started running hot, so I pulled over and noticed the radiator fan wasn't kicking on. I went home and checked my logs, link was reading the temp sensor, so I pulled the relay for the fan and checked it, its clicking so it was good, I bypassed the relay and jumped the fan off and it came on so it must be the thermo switch to the fan located on the bottom of the radiator.

I called my buddy Chuck who really got me into DSM's and has been messing with them for over 12 years he has a bunch of misc DSM parts in his shop (OEM gaskets, hoses, bolts, so on still in the factory bags) as well as several spare parts laying around. He sold his 92 4/6 AWD and got an Evo VIII.

So I asked him if he had a thermo switch laying around and he tells me no, but he has a fluidyne radiator with one in it along with some FAL fans on it, and some brand new mishimoto hoses and Tbolt clamps. So he hooked me up for cheap with the new Radiator setup. While I was over there he also had a brand new in the package radiator mounting brackets and bolts, a new brake fluid resivor, mitsubishi hose for the brake resivour, the bracket that holds it, the clips that hold the hoses, and the bolts. Also had brand new transmission bolts and some other misc bolts brand new in the bags. He hooked me up with all of this for $300! SCORE!!!

Oh, and the fans are wired to plug into the factory harness.

Installed the brake fluid resivor and all of the new parts for it.

Also got the Fluidyne installed with the new brackets and bolts.

 

[J_HEATH]

Good and bad news....

The Talon is still having issues with the fans not coming on. I went to the junkyard and pulled a relay and fan temp sensor. Neither one did anything to help. I wasn't going to let this stop me from trying to finally retune it so I pulled the relay and ran a wire straight from the distribution block to where the relay is located in the fuse box so the fan would run constant. The second fan wasn't coming on, I'm assuming since it is plugged into where the condenser fan goes and I deleted everything to do with A/C. I'm going to splice the two fans together, get all new sensors, and try that. If that doesn't fix it I'm just going to run a wire to a switch and locate in the car somewhere to manually turn them on and off.

Also I was having an Issue with the boost. I origionally had the vacuum lines ran to the wastegate with one port open and the other going to the boost solenoid. I redone the lines and ran then to the top and side of the wastegate. Since doing this the boost was just spiking at 20psi and falling to wastegate pressure 14.7psi (1 bar). I am going to double and tripple check to make sure I have the lines ran like they say to run them on ECMlinks Wiki section on running the ingersol boost solenoid. If they are correct I will switch them back to the way I had them and just go with it. The reason why I switched the way they are ran is because the wastegate was making a funky noise fluttering and sound really weird and silly popping throughout the RPM's.

The good news is I finally sprayed the nitrous! (100 wet shot)

The car handled it very well and when it came in, it hit hard! The car took off like a rocket, boost jumped 6psi and it pulled hard until I let off. I'm going to get the boost pressure up to 25psi and see how it does. Then go up to 28psi and see how it reacts. I don't want to run more than 29psi because I think anything more would just be creating hot air with the 20G. Also we tried to tinker more with the launching but the motor and trans got hot while I was stalling it up so we had to call it quits until we resolve the cooling issues.

So next on the agenda is to fix the cooling issue with the motor. All new sensors and wire the fans inline with each other. Also to get AN fittings and nylon hose and fab a bracket for the larger B&M trans cooler. Fix the boost pressure issue to get the car back to making 25-28psi.

Then take it for a test spin and make sure the AFR's are good. It was running 11.5 when we sprayed it and holding that throughout the RPM's. Also Jason (Unknown Tuning) was very conservative with the timing so we have a lot of timing left to add in and the car didn't see a single count of knock. So with what we got accomplished with the issues we had I was please with the outcome.

Now my buddy Chuck and me will be leaving tonight to head to Norwalk, OH for the 20th Annual DSM/EVO shootout!!!

When we get back I'm sure after seeing all of the fast cars I will be even more motivated to finish my car and get to the track. If I can't muster a 10 second pass in the quarter mile I have the pills for a 150 shot on reserve. I'm hoping for mid 6's in the 1/8th at our local track. I think with the car running a 7.0 with a 1.6 60ft. the last time out on street tires and no nitrous, I think a mid 6 is very do-able with the hoosiers, nitrous, and the new launch setup.

 

[Galant665]

Great build. Love the car. I was at the SO and had I seen this thread would have looked for your car.
After seeing so many Autos running there. Tempted to convert my 90 drag car to an Auto.

 

[J_HEATH]

Another update....

Well Monday after I got back from the Shootout and pumped to get my car going and get back to the track I went out to the garage and tinkered with it and figured something out. I did some rearranging and waited til Tuesday night to take the car out for a test drive. Well I think I figured out the low boost issue

I'm going to buy some new sensors for the coolant system and rewire the fans for the radiator Monday when I'm off work as well as order the AN lines and fittings for my larger trans cooler. When all that comes in I'll fab up a bracket to mount it to the car. Then its back to the streets to do a couple pulls and see if there is any tweaking to the tune that needs to be done before I finally take it back to the track. Also I need to do a couple launches and see how it does and figure out when I need the nitrous to come in at.

This log was done just cruising and then laying into the throttle in 3rd gear I believe, may have been 2nd gear I really don't remember.

Also Jason Story (Unknown Tuning) is very conservative when it comes to tuning and is one of those that wants to make sure everything is working absolutely perfect before he starts changing things to make more power. Hince the vaginia degrees timing.

 

[1fastlaser]

I dont know if you know this but the bottle should have the top forward or straight up and down...the tube goes to the bottom and when you leave the gas will move to one side.

 

[J_HEATH]

I was not aware. I'll have to look in my NHRA rule book and see what the regulations are. Thanks for pointing that out. Its tight in the hatch for mounting anything, especially with the factory gas tank. Its hard to get to the bottomed of anything and get a washer and nut on a bolt since the gas tank covers the majority of the area on the bottom of the hatch area. I was debating on taking the rear seats out and having carpet made to cover the area where they are and maybe mounting the bottle there but i'm sure it won't fit long ways there either. Worst case I'll just have to leave it where its at until I get a JM Fab fuel cell in a couple months.

 

[1fastlaser]

I actually have my bottle mounted in the area where your battery box is. Made it easy to get the bolts in for the bottle brackets. Mounted the battery forward center of the trunk.

 

[J_HEATH]

Well SHIT!

I finally put the larger trans cooler on. The car needed it since the last time I had it out and was testing the new launching setup the trans temp got danger hot, just over 200 degrees, over 230 degrees and you start to do damage to the trans. Well I tried to get it installed with the rubber lines that are already on the car with using NPT to barbed fittings so I could take it to the track (local 1/8th mile) tonight. Well I couldn't get the damn fittings to seal on the cooler, I used a bunch of teflon and tightened them but they wouldn't seal. So I'm just going to have to wait until my AN fittings and line comes in from Summit which will probably be Tuesday or Wednesday.

As you can see the new B&M cooler is about twice as big as the small factory one I had on there.

Who knows, maybe we can get it to Gulfport, MS (1/4th mile track) Wednesday.

 

[illegal99si]

Glad to see the car getting some love I just raided my local mitsu dealer for all the parts I could keep us posted.

 

[iceman21221]

I went out Friday night and tried to retune the Talon but we couldn't get the injectors to cooperate. Fusterated, I came home and snatched them out and sold them

I had this same issue happen to me twice. I've given up on the 1250-1650 style bluemax fic injectors.

 

[J_HEATH]

I had this same issue happen to me twice. I've given up on the 1250-1650 style bluemax fic injectors.

I was highly impressed with these ID injectors. When I upgrade the turbo setup I'll be going with ID 2,000cc's for sure.

 

[J_HEATH]

Gulfport didn't happen.

Got all of my AN fittings and hose in today though from summit. Will probably install all of this tonight.

6ft of nylon hose, two 1.25x12 to-6 fittings (goes into the trans), two 90 degree swivel -6 fittings, four-6 straights, two 1/2" NPT to-6 90's, one-6 male double end fitting with 1/8th NPT port (for temp sensor)

I'm really to the point to where I am about sick of dumping money into this thing and not being able to see some results. I really, REALLY! want to get this thing to a track and see what it can do.

I'll be putting in vacation for IFO coming up in November at Montgomery, AL. Hopefully I can get it to a track and get some seat time before then and nothing will break.

 

[J_HEATH]

Going to my local 1/8th mile track tonight. I'm not touching anything on the car until then. I'm going to go buy a 5 gal pale of Q16, load up the Hoosiers in the back of my buddies truck and go.

I'm gonna try 17psi tire pressure on the Hoosiers and see how it does. This will be the first time I use them so I'm not 100% sure on tire pressure. Also I'm going to have to play with the launch with the Neutral safety/Anitlag settings. This will also be the first time using nitrous as well, currently boost is set at 22psi and hits 27/28psi with the 100 shot.

Shooting for 6.7 or faster!

 

[dsmjedi]

Going to my local 1/8th mile track tonight. I'm not touching anything on the car until then. I'm going to go buy a 5 gal pale of Q16, load up the Hoosiers in the back of my buddies truck and go.

I'm gonna try 17psi tire pressure on the Hoosiers and see how it does. This will be the first time I use them so I'm not 100% sure on tire pressure. Also I'm going to have to play with the launch with the Neutral safety/Anitlag settings. This will also be the first time using nitrous as well, currently boost is set at 22psi and hits 27/28psi with the 100 shot.

Shooting for 6.7 or faster!

Good luck man!!

 

[J_HEATH]

What a disappointing night. I was having issues with the anitlag and whatever else settings for the launch. I had it set at 4k rpms and when it hit 3.5k it would bog, build and bog, build and bog. So when I launched the car it fell on its face. I made two shitty runs using that crap. 2.160ft 7.7@89mph, then a 1.9 60ft 7.5@89mph. Oh and I couldn't bolt my slicks on because the FD wheels bore is different so they wouldn't fit on the JM fab hubcentric wheel spacers. The third pass was the most decent one I turned the antilag bs off and just used the brake and gas pedal, no timing retarding or anything. It was taking forever to build RPMs, I got it up to about 3-3.5k and launched it, cut a 1.7 60ft and ran a 7.1 I forgot to turn the nitrous on!!!!!! FUUUUUUU!!!!!!!!

The last pass I was having a hell of a time trying to build any RPMS I got it up to maybe 2.5k and I guess the people at the track thought I was taking too long so they triggered the tree and so I went and towards the end of the track, clank, clank, pop, pop, car died.

I was like oh great..... after having a friend try and start the car while I watched the motor, I just heard a spinning noise and the cam gears and all weren't spinning. Right then I thought oh shit, the flex plate bolts! Sure enough, I looked under the car though the peep window and a bolt was missing, I'm assuming they all backed out. I used red lock tight on them and over torqued them when I installed them. !?!?! I'm thinking that is why the car was having issues building the stall.

Needless to say I was very disappointed with the outcome. But atleast nothing major broke and I got to actually run the car. Oh well, better luck next trip.

 

[Mark L]

Debugging setups can be a PITA. Keep it up! Did you make the rear mustache bar?

 

[J_HEATH]

Debugging setups can be a PITA. Keep it up! Did you make the rear mustache bar?

Yeah it sucks when things don't work the way you want/expect them to. Vassil made the mustache bar. You can find him in the fabrication section.

I ordered new Mitsubishi converter bolts so they should be here in a few days.

 

[crash89]

Sure enough, I looked under the car though the peep window and a bolt was missing, I'm assuming they all backed out. I used red lock tight on them and over torqued them when I installed them.

My buddy had a similar issue with his car this season.. It turned out that the bolts were too long and were bottoming out and not actually securing the flexplate to the flywheel fully. We had to shave a few threads off of the bolts and tried a different kind of locktite.

 

[J_HEATH]

My buddy had a similar issue with his car this season.. It turned out that the bolts were too long and were bottoming out and not actually securing the flexplate to the flywheel fully. We had to shave a few threads off of the bolts and tried a different kind of locktite.

I assume you mean torque converter.

Well there are two different size of bolts depending on what year DSM you have.

I've got 2 new sets on the way and I'll just do what others suggest. Lots of red locktite and over 100ft lbs.

I will also install the staging brake, and the trans cooler lines while the car is down. I'm also going to have to enlarge the bore on the FD wheels, so I'll be taking a router to them.

 

[J_HEATH]

Okay, Here are the plans for the Talon

I've got 2 sets of OEM torque converter bolts on the way. I talked to Jeff Bush and he said he just uses a lot of red locktite and over 100 ft/lbs of torque.

I'm also going to send a bolt to ARP to see if they can find anything to match.

I'll be ordering a B&M button shifter knob to wire to my nitrous so I can start spraying at the line to built the stall and spray whenver instead of having ECMlink control it.

B&M 81063 - B&M Button Shifter Knobs - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I'll be pulling to center diff and sending it to English Racing to get welded

I'll also install the trans cooler an lines and fittings. I may also look into a fan for the cooler, but I really don't want to run anymore wires in the car.

I also will probably get some AEM cam gears, even though they aren't really needed right now and install them with the ARP cam gear bolts I've had for about 2 years now sitting.

 

[hediki12]

nice build i too am going auto so this helps alot!

 

[J_HEATH]

I pulled the center differential out and will be sending it to English Racing to get welded.

It took me all of maybe 30 minutes to get it out of the transmission, wish I had done this long ago.

I'll also be doing some other work on the Talon this weekend, one which involves pulling the dash.

Maybe in a couple weeks I'll have it all back together and get to take it back to the track for some passes.