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Questions for Justin...

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yes,i have a gauge as,stated earlier. its,a digital gauge. and no I'm not wrong in the way I routed my lines. Bov is run to intake manifold. one from j-pipe to bcs. other from bcs to maf pipe. this actually close to stock routing just actuator nipple is broke.

problem is solved anyway boosting wastegate pressure now. mounted bov backwards. It was opening inside now it is pushed closec instead of opening and boost is awesome now. also bov sounds just exactly like hks ssq now. no joke either. I'm far from a noob but everyone needs help and thoughts everyone now and then.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts. problem solved.
 
i picked up a t04b for really cheap, and i was wondering i could fit t25 hotside on it?
 
fixed problem
Consider that a temporary solution. That type of valve was never designed to be used as a push-pull, so it's going to open rather slow.

This would be a better fix:

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i picked up a t04b for really cheap, and i was wondering i could fit t25 hotside on it?
Not even close.
 
Help me identify this holset:
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the numbers are as follows: 1st line 3531152 2nd line H1863722
 
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Consider that a temporary solution. That type of valve was never designed to be used as a push-pull, so it's going to open rather slow.

This would be a better fix:

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Tbh it opens just,as quickly dont notice any difference in release effort. just sounds cooler now since it flutters.

I would probably get something like that but ill be changing the entire intake setup soon for the evo kit. So I'm going to run it like this till then.
 
Tbh it opens just,as quickly dont notice any difference in release effort. just sounds cooler now since it flutters.
The "flutter" is the sound generated by either the valve itself or the turbo when the valve is not opening properly as it should be. The valve is either opening too slowly or not opening far enough / staying open long enough. This will eventually lead to bearing damage within the turbo.

So despite your thinking everything is kosher, it's not.
 
Question, my buddy wants to make 400 HP on a 2.2 cobalt and he wants to get a turbonetics to4e, I told him I heard they were no good. He says he heard they were good. Want to shed some light on this subject? Also what would be a good alternative if this is not good?
 
Question, my buddy wants to make 400 HP on a 2.2 cobalt and he wants to get a turbonetics to4e, I told him I heard they were no good. He says he heard they were good. Want to shed some light on this subject?
I have no input aside from Turbonetics is the only turbo brand I've personally seen blow in 100 miles from brand new with hardly any boost while driving. An eBay GT35 literally lasted longer on the same car by blowing in just 400 miles.
Also what would be a good alternative if this is not good?
A T04E-what? The term T04E refers to an entire series of turbo thousands of possible wheel and housing combinations within that series.
 
Hey Justin, I am really loving this 18g you sent me. People here don't believe something that size pushes as hard as it does. I have been accused of having nitrous hidden in the car more than once. LOL
I have a question that I didn't want to make a thread for though, because of all the 18g speculators, and I just need an informed second opinion. I have been dialing in a pretty aggressive tune with a water injection system and EvoScan is saying that the turbo is hitting 52 lbs and topping out the MAF at 1598Hz. Does this even sound reasonable? I am suspecting something is not right with EvoScan, as I didn't think the 18g would blow over a 2g MAF... My 550 injectors are getting into the 85% to 90% duty cycle with a 45psi base fuel pressure though, and it isn't running lean according to the LC1. It's been hitting the Target AFR's on the fueling table dead on. It is pulling pretty hard, but I suspect EvoScan is exaggerating those figures to inflate my ego.
 
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I have a frank 3 20g with a clipped td06 and 3 inch inlet.
Would it be worth it to upgrade the turbine wheel to a unclipped td06h?
What is this turbo capable of as is? Cant find any power ratings on it anywhere especially a clipped frank 3.

Just took the compressor housing off and found grooves plus the edge chipped off where the big rubber o-ring seal goes.
Is this bad?
 

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I have no idea, that's all it was refered to as. But just for future knowledge, what about it make it a to4e? The compressor wheel or center section or what?
Yep....along with the compressor cover, backplate, turbine housing, and turbine wheel.

Hey Justin, I am really loving this 18g you sent me. People here don't believe something that size pushes as hard as it does. I have been accused of having nitrous hidden in the car more than once. LOL
I have a question that I didn't want to make a thread for though, because of all the 18g speculators, and I just need an informed second opinion. I have been dialing in a pretty aggressive tune with a water injection system and EvoScan is saying that the turbo is hitting 52 lbs and topping out the MAF at 1598Hz. Does this even sound reasonable? I am suspecting something is not right with EvoScan, as I didn't think the 18g would blow over a 2g MAF... My 550 injectors are getting into the 85% to 90% duty cycle with a 45psi base fuel pressure though, and it isn't running lean according to the LC1. It's been hitting the Target AFR's on the fueling table dead on. It is pulling pretty hard, but I suspect EvoScan is exaggerating those figures to inflate my ego.
Yeah something's not right there. The 18G compressor should fall short of the 20G by 2 lb/min or so at peak, putting it right in the area of a 42 lb/min turbo when fully exhausted under a perfect efficiency situation at probably 23-25psi; you don't have to kill a turbo of that size with boost just to make airflow if the rest of your setup is worthy.

I have a frank 3 20g with a clipped td06 and 3 inch inlet.
Would it be worth it to upgrade the turbine wheel to a unclipped td06h?
What is this turbo capable of as is? Cant find any power ratings on it anywhere especially a clipped frank 3.
Don't touch it. Not sure why the previous owner would have clipped the TD06 turbine, but a clipped 06 would likely outflow or be damn close to the same as an unclipped 06H so the upgrade would be a waste of time and money.
Just took the compressor housing off and found grooves plus the edge chipped off where the big rubber o-ring seal goes.
Is this bad?
If that happened from the compressor which is currently on the turbo (compressor close-up is poor), then the entire turbo is junk. If not, you should consider getting a new cover machined or risk losing compressor efficiency.
 
The turbo has zero shaft play since it was recently rebuilt by the previous owner. The compressor wheel doesn't look bad and is still matches with original specs for inducer/exducer. Couldn't i just replace the compressor wheel with this one.
Garrett 60-1 Turbo Turbocharger Compressor Wheel NEW for Mitsubishi Shaft | eBay

Would this compressor cover work if i get it ?
Turbo Compressor Housing 3" TD06 / Garrett 60-1 wheel | eBay

Did some searching and the ebay wheels are no good but where can i get a td06 compressor cover to fit the e54 wheel cheap.
 
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The turbo has zero shaft play since it was recently rebuilt by the previous owner. The compressor wheel doesn't look bad and is still matches with original specs for inducer/exducer. Couldn't i just replace the compressor wheel with this one.
Garrett 60-1 Turbo Turbocharger Compressor Wheel NEW for Mitsubishi Shaft | eBay

Would this compressor cover work if i get it ?
Turbo Compressor Housing 3" TD06 / Garrett 60-1 wheel | eBay
Sounds to me like it had a thrust failure in the past and someone repaired it half-assed by replacing only the compressor wheel based on what the owner was willing to spend. It may work fine as-is, but compressor efficiency will be down because a certain amount of air will bypass the wheel through the grooves in the cover.

You could theoretically assemble those two parts as long as they're machined properly- I always get nervous when I see precision parts being offered by different companies like that because of fitment issues.
Did some searching and the ebay wheels are no good but where can i get a td06 compressor cover to fit the e54 wheel cheap.
They don't exist. You have a custom built turbo. You'd have to buy a 20G cover and have it machined.
 
The person who rebuilt it had the turbine clipped and changed the compressor wheel but didnt change the compressor housing. I'm either going to run it as is or try to get a compressor housing machined for it. How bad will it mess up compressor efficiency? Will it spool slower or not make as much power? What if i tried the smooth out the grooves a little would that mess it up. Its going on my daily. Was going to try and make around 400whp with it. Is it worth it to repair it ?
 
How bad will it mess up compressor efficiency?
I can't answer that for you- all I can tell you is that it will be worse than one with a non-damaged cover.
Will it spool slower or not make as much power?
Less airflow for sure- not sure how it would be related to spool at all as the wheel spec and turbine housing a/r is what ultimately decides the turbo's spool characteristic.
What if i tried the smooth out the grooves a little would that mess it up.
It will do nothing.
Its going on my daily. Was going to try and make around 400whp with it. Is it worth it to repair it ?
That compressor is rated at around 50 lb/min, so 400whp should be achievable. Whether it's worth repairing or not is unknown until you put it on and get a baseline on what it can do for you- I was just stating that I would not have repaired a turbo with that much compressor cover damage unless the cover was being replaced too. Basically the previous owner chose to put a new piston and rings into a badly-grooved cylinder.
 
So if i change the compressor housing the turbo will be good since that is the only problem with it. The turbine side is perfect. If all it needs is a compressor housing ill just buy a cheap 3" inlet td06 housing and have it machined since polishing out the grooves can't fix it. I'm sure its cheaper that trying to buy a fp green. The guy said it was rebuilt and i believe it since it has no shaft play at all but can a turbo have no shaft play and be bad?

Added some better pics of compressor wheel doesn't look bad to me.
What would this turbo be worth considering all it needs is a compressor housing to be completely rebuilt?
 

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The guy said it was rebuilt and i believe it since it has no shaft play at all but can a turbo have no shaft play and be bad?
It could be full of metal from a blown engine, as-is many of the turbos I receive to be rebuilt which don't *appear* to have anything wrong with them from the outside. Not saying that's what is going on here, but there's always that chance...especially since the turbo appears to have been used since it was last rebuilt.
Added some better pics of compressor wheel doesn't look bad to me.
What would this turbo be worth considering all it needs is a compressor housing to be completely rebuilt?
It's been run since it was last rebuilt, so what you have here is a used turbo.
 
Im sending it to Turbo labs America to have a housing machined so it should be all good. No metal in it was checked just has the compressor housing issue. I checked and this turbo is rated at 500hp is that right. Hope to have this turbo on the car soon. Would Fic 950's be good enough on 93 octane for this turbo ? I want to run around 25psi or is this too low for this turbo.
 
No metal in it was checked just has the compressor housing issue.
You've already done a teardown?
I checked and this turbo is rated at 500hp is that right. Hope to have this turbo on the car soon. Would Fic 950's be good enough on 93 octane for this turbo ? I want to run around 25psi or is this too low for this turbo.
Turbos are rated in airflow, not horsepower. As I've already stated, this turbo should peak just shy of 50 lb/min, so whatever you can do with that amount of airflow is up to you and your tuner.

A realistic WHP rating for this turbo at 25psi would be around 360-370 figuring that you'll accurately log around 44-45 lb/min of airflow at that boost level with a fair amount of supporting mods and pump fuel.
 
Nothing in the thrust bearing behind the compressor wheel. That's all i checked. No metal looks good.

Its now reassembled, lubed, taped up, and waiting on a comp cover.

I just contacted the person I bought it from and he said it was recently rebuilt when he got it. Its been sitting for about a year. Would the seals go bad in year of sitting or no?
It was run a little by the guy who rebuilt it then sold to the guy i bought it off of along with the motor it was on and that motor is still running today. Only possible thing to fail now is the seals although they looked good to me.
 
I am selling my Frank level 3 and going with a hx40 instead. I am going to run the bolt on dsm bep housing. I have to choose between the 8 blade or the 6 blade. How much more does the 6 blade flow over the 8 blade. I am getting a freshly rebuilt 8 blade for 300 if that's a good deal but I don't know if a 6 blade would be better in the long run or not.I will run at 25 psi for now though . I plan to run a max of 35-40psi later down the road. If the 6 blade doesn't flow much more I'm going with the 8 blade since it should spool quicker. Would a 8 blade be better for me? I'm an auto as well. Will be running hks 272's with the turbo. If I buy a used hx40 with good blades how much for you to rebuild it for me?
 
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