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Engine build time. Want the best parts. Questions.

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v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,822
266
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
So my #1 rod bearing decided to spin and it's rebuild time I guess. Gonna build up my 7 bolt motor. Yes, 7 bolt. Anyway, I know there's TONS of info out there but everyone has their own opinions about parts. Just wondering if anyone has any concrete info on why one part might be better than another when it comes to engine parts. Say for example with pistons such as Ross, Manley, Mahle, JE, Wiseco, etc. What makes one piston better than the other? Or camshafts for example. There's so many "272" cams out there. Wondering which one I should go with when choosing between say....Kelford, FP's, etc. It's suppose to be a 272 cam so why is one better than the other???

I'm gonna make this an aluminum rod motor with Butchered crank. The pistons I can't decide on though as well as the cams. Thanks for any feedback. I don't wanna waste my time or money on this motor.
 
So my #1 rod bearing decided to spin and it's rebuild time I guess. Gonna build up my 7 bolt motor. Yes, 7 bolt. Anyway, I know there's TONS of info out there but everyone has their own opinions about parts. Just wondering if anyone has any concrete info on why one part might be better than another when it comes to engine parts. Say for example with pistons such as Ross, Manley, Mahle, JE, Wiseco, etc. What makes one piston better than the other? Or camshafts for example. There's so many "272" cams out there. Wondering which one I should go with when choosing between say....Kelford, FP's, etc. It's suppose to be a 272 cam so why is one better than the other???

I'm gonna make this an aluminum rod motor with Butchered crank. The pistons I can't decide on though as well as the cams. Thanks for any feedback. I don't wanna waste my time or money on this motor.

So is this going to be a track only car or a street driven car. Are you looking for more than a thousand horsepower. What i am getting at is why do you feel that you need to run aluminum rods? Also the butcher crank is really not necessary. There are plenty of people who have cars that are faster than yours will ever be that run stock cranks and steel rods.
 
Well, I'm currently running an HX35 turbo....at the moment. I'd like to run as fast as I can on the setup I have. I'm sure that every little bit alway helps. Fastest HX35 is what, a 10 second car? I'd LOVE to break that record if I could. I'm not building it for any set horsepower, but to make it go as fast as I can with "X" turbo that I have at the time. I was hoping to break that measley T-28 record but the turbo blew so I scraped that idea. I know others might go fast with a steel crank and rods and all. But they may have the perfect tune, 100mm turbo or something, etc. I wanna make it as easy as possible to make all the power I can.

Anyway, as for pistons for example, let's say I'm looking at 2 diffrent brands but both have the same compression ratio. Why would I choose one over the other? Cost? I need more than just, "But Brent Rau runs it so you should buy it too". I'd like a more educated reason as to why I should buy this one or that one.

Oh, and my car isn't a daily driver, but does get driven from time to time.
 
Well, I'm currently running an HX35 turbo....at the moment. I'd like to run as fast as I can on the setup I have. I'm sure that every little bit alway helps. Fastest HX35 is what, a 10 second car? I'd LOVE to break that record if I could. I'm not building it for any set horsepower, but to make it go as fast as I can with "X" turbo that I have at the time. I was hoping to break that measley T-28 record but the turbo blew so I scraped that idea. I know others might go fast with a steel crank and rods and all. But they may have the perfect tune, 100mm turbo or something, etc. I wanna make it as easy as possible to make all the power I can.

Anyway, as for pistons for example, let's say I'm looking at 2 diffrent brands but both have the same compression ratio. Why would I choose one over the other? Cost? I need more than just, "But Brent Rau runs it so you should buy it too". I'd like a more educated reason as to why I should buy this one or that one.

Oh, and my car isn't a daily driver, but does get driven from time to time.

The differences in the pistons is how they are made. The cheaper ones are a higher silicon content which means that they can be ran with a tighter clearance. This also means that they are not as strong as the lower silicon content piston. The supertech and mahle pistons are probably the cheapest and are good pistons, but they are the least strong of the forged pistons, but can be ran with tighter clearances. Than you have wiseco and manley which are stronger , but require a little more clearance. From there the ross and je pistons are probably the strongest of the group, but they require the most amount of clearance. More clearance means that the cylinders and pistons will wear faster because the pistons are smacking the cylinders until they get warm and expand. Any single one of these pistons will handle the power that you are going to make with that hx35. Even a stock set of cast pistons will handle that turbo. As far as rods go. You DO NOT need aluminum rods. Just get that out of your head. They will not make your car any faster. Even with the best parts on the market you will still blow your engine with a bad tune or running it low on oil. It's all in the tune and keeping the engine maintained well. A stock crank, wiseco pistons and eagle rods will be more engine than you could ever need with that turbo. The better internals DO NOT make horsepower, they only are able to handle horsepower. The horsepower is made in the top end and with the turbo.
 
As far as rods go. You DO NOT need aluminum rods. Just get that out of your head. They will not make your car any faster. A stock crank, wiseco pistons and eagle rods will be more engine than you could ever need with that turbo. The better internals DO NOT make horsepower, they only are able to handle horsepower. The horsepower is made in the top end and with the turbo.

Also the butcher crank is really not necessary.

Appreciate the info on the pistons. But you're saying that a lighter rotating assembly won't do me any good? I know people run fast on a stock crank and steel rods, but I wonder how much faster they'd be with lighter internals. Otherwise, why would people even have them??? I have a buddy that had a butcher crank and OMG that thing revved so fast and was super responsive wth a Buschur 20g. I was really impressed. I already have a Quarter Master clutch and no balance shafts. Also, not saying it'll make more horsepower, but I'm sure it'll free some power up with less weight....once it gets moving.
 
Just to give you an example. I will be running Weisco HD pistons(due to the regular pistons cracking on the side skirts),Eagle H beams and ACL Bearings all the way around. Oh and arp main studs and arp L19 head studs. I will be making close if not over 700hp on my brand new FP3575. Like said above the weisco HD and eagle rod combo is good up to 800hp or more. Spend the money on the top end in the end you end up spending more on head work than the short block work. If you need any help send me a pm.
 
I don't see where you posted above. Lol. Oh well, I do plan on maybe doing some head work. The short block HAS to be rebuilt though cause it spun a rod bearing. But yeah, reason I'm asking about cams as well. I see a bunch of 272 cams. Kelford, HKS, Brian Crower, DKS, FP2's, Comp, etc. If they all have the 272 "specs", then I don't see why one would be better than the other. As well as the valve springs.
 
Pushing the hx35 hard you'll be best with some milder cams and an evoiii intake. This ought to match the motor to the turbo pretty well. If you spent 5 minuets reading on cam terminology you'd be dangerous.
 
Pushing the hx35 hard you'll be best with some milder cams and an evoiii intake. This ought to match the motor to the turbo pretty well. If you spent 5 minuets reading on cam terminology you'd be dangerous.

Well, I have a 1g head, intake manifold, and n/t throttle body already. I believe my mod list is up to date.

I'd recommend going with a stroker. It'll spool you faster and give you 15% more displacement to turn into power.

I read this earlier but I didn't have time to reply. You mentioned this and I've been pondering the idea in my head all day and since you bring it up, I think this is exactly what I'm gonna do. I remember now that Tim Zimmer has a 7 bolt, aluminum rod 2.3L stroker motor so I think I'm gonna contact him and talk it over with him.

Thanks for the replies though. The piston info was useful.
 
just because you can reach higher rpms quicker does not mean there is more power behind that. sometimes a super light rotating mass can hurt you more then just running what the steel rods would weigh. a stroker kit would be your best bet if you want to make the most power that you can for your set up.
 
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