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1G Transmission 5th Gear Rebuild *HD Pics*

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Artago

15+ Year Contributor
2,090
26
Nov 30, 2006
North Vancouver, BC_Canada
Hi all, I bought a 92 TSi AWD, 5 speed. The 5th gear retaining bolt came loose on the previous owner and did some damage. I need some replacement parts. But first, pics. (Click pics to open Picada and Download High Res version)

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fjlth0hGubZ9gRSn3YVKHvgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ks7y-GS2n6I/T6gDBHG1q4I/AAAAAAAAJtc/s5yQds9VkQk/s800/20120506_195020.jpg" height="800" width="600" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UGDvi_5Xu9PAEpA0xwYQSPgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EcL9v-orzvA/T6gDE_vpvDI/AAAAAAAAJtk/ainAFfhNFSM/s800/20120506_195024.jpg" height="800" width="600" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9q-TE6U7rSh-b87agtIJrfgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ul-uU83XtrU/T6gDIu5nczI/AAAAAAAAJts/t4GouAOHGJU/s800/20120506_195032.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CQMrAl5z_kVjX-1FsK8YpfgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hf7qTbi-BJ8/T6gDMxuMkRI/AAAAAAAAJt0/LMT8EpgRmgI/s800/20120506_195102.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6_oHgZBCjdY1LdBMgPvUDPgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BMcoKTOrPS8/T6gDQ3oIuCI/AAAAAAAAJt8/aFUde-WyqsQ/s800/20120506_195106.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ntH1n63m6FA3--dCT4x-OfgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RnZjc2RbvF4/T6gDU8fN0yI/AAAAAAAAJuE/Icz3jApxpD0/s800/20120506_195111.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1DAawUh44eCyuOcsYpqtevgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2vUFsiQgBWs/T6gDZbzyUSI/AAAAAAAAJuM/WGH1ROwxGyw/s800/20120506_195115.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SSJLH8iqzGxjC8pp-alj4fgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5aUO9qXzvnM/T6gDdoINYTI/AAAAAAAAJuU/OyHOyYK_ABU/s800/20120506_195122.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5RrRooPpkX3ssvmwiqFX6PgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aBewqYO2Y1Y/T6gDh8WCsBI/AAAAAAAAJuc/8xv1btUnwKc/s800/20120506_195130.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_93Xxrg6rw3x0xdseUnMaPgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gXtzR3DLhmw/T6gDoVX8IrI/AAAAAAAAJus/z7fCe8u66_E/s800/20120506_195152.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/n65ACKesHtvW1CeevzDOMPgGbGcI29Yx2ryWSELmB4Y?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bBrVPv_Tusc/T6gDrHlOiZI/AAAAAAAAJu8/zO3ZlliLQNA/s800/20120506_195157.jpg" height="600" width="800" /></a>

So I've already found a used rear trans cover so I'm set for that.

My questions: What else do I need? 5th gear synchro ring + spring + shim. Can I replace the shoes on the hub as well without taking the tranny out?

Where can I get all these parts? Anyone know the part numbers so I don't get the wrong parts?

Thanks,

Tom
 
Anyone know the part numbers for the Synchro Ring, the spring, the shim, and the shoes? I need to get these parts asap.

Also, can I remove the 5th gear hub to service it? I'm sure some parts in there need to be replaced too.

Thanks, Tom
 
It would be a good idea to clean the particles out of the rest of the transmission if you want it to last. Pull the gears and VC off. You'll need to do that anyways if the seal between the bearing plate and mid case is broken.
 
It would be a good idea to clean the particles out of the rest of the transmission if you want it to last. Pull the gears and VC off. You'll need to do that anyways if the seal between the bearing plate and mid case is broken.

Hey Lowell,

I actually just bought this 1G to daily drive while I pull the tranny out of my 2G for a stage 2 performance rebuild. I just need it drivable, I may do a full rebuild in the future but in the mean time I don't want to pull the tranny out. Whatever I can fix while it's still bolted to the car will have to do. Jack's Transmissions got back to me via email and sent me the follow parts list:

5th Gear Synchro: Jacks Transmissions LLC &mdash; 3-4-5 Synchro Ring

Reverse Gear Synchro: Jacks Transmissions LLC &mdash; Reverse Synchro Ring

5th / Reverse Springs: Jacks Transmissions LLC &mdash; Synchro Spring (Small) (x2)

5th / Reverse Synchro Keys: Jacks Transmissions LLC &mdash; 3-4 Synchro Key (x3)

End Nut: Jacks Transmissions LLC &mdash; End Nut

I'll pull the 5th gear hub out and have a look. More pics are coming.

Thanks for the advice!

Tom
 
Last edited:
I suggest replacing the end nuts as well. They are already staked once and weaken those points. When you torque the nuts down normally they end up in the same location ( the staked part in the groove).

After a couple trans rebuilds I noticed that reusing them, the nuts tend to push the staked metal out of the way and it backs off causing the same damage over again.
 
I suggest replacing the end nuts as well. They are already staked once and weaken those points. When you torque the nuts down normally they end up in the same location ( the staked part in the groove).

After a couple trans rebuilds I noticed that reusing them, the nuts tend to push the staked metal out of the way and it backs off causing the same damage over again.

Cool, thanks for the advice!
 
Ok so I took it all apart and the synchro ring on the other side looks good.

I need to order replacements, the synchro ring on the outside (the one that's destroyed)... is that the reverse or 5th synchro?
 
Hi all,

I'm doing the rebuild as I type this. Running into a problem.

Trying to tighten the 36mm end nut but the shaft just spins... The gears are wiggling but not rotating.

Why is the shaft spinning?

Thanks
 
You will have to either use a penny or a thick rag and get either of those wedged inbetween the gears. Put the trans in a gear while tightening it.
 
I hate the penny trick. Typically somebody has a scrap clutch disk. Cut out the hub and weld or have it welded to a cheap impact socket. THe shaft spins because it's supposed to. Be aware not all the end cases are the same either. The riveted piece the is an oil guide and they are different for different years because the oil guide (black plastic piece sticking out of the transmission) are different. If the trans is in neutral that shaft spins free. You can try a gear but ideally you hold the input shaft on the other side. Don't forget to stake that nut after you tighten it. Over 100 lbs is a bi*** isn't it.
 
It was under my impression that the trans is still in the car. Using a clutch disc and welding that to a cheap socket would be ideal if the tranny is out of the car, but it sounds like he just has the 5th gear part of the case off. I've had better luck with a thick shop rag than I have with a penny, so I suggest trying either of those. Both have worked for me... Just kind of a pain sometimes.
 
In all honesty while you have the trans cracked I would suggest doing things like 1-5 syncros, 4 spyder diff, 3-4 hubs and similar common parts that let go at more than stock power levels. It's a hellova lot cheaper to do a 4 spyder center diff now than if it blows the f up later (which takes out other more expensive parts). And for crap sakes, stop sticking crap in gears to torque! Lock the gears into first and 5th and torque (IIrc it's first and fifth on most gearboxes). Stuffing crap between the gears is an easy way to have plastic deformation which will ruin your gear set in short order. Still blows me away how many gearbox mechanics that have worked for me that try that shit...
 
In all honesty while you have the trans cracked I would suggest doing things like 1-5 syncros, 4 spyder diff, 3-4 hubs and similar common parts that let go at more than stock power levels. It's a hellova lot cheaper to do a 4 spyder center diff now than if it blows the f up later (which takes out other more expensive parts). And for crap sakes, stop sticking crap in gears to torque! Lock the gears into first and 5th and torque (IIrc it's first and fifth on most gearboxes). Stuffing crap between the gears is an easy way to have plastic deformation which will ruin your gear set in short order. Still blows me away how many gearbox mechanics that have worked for me that try that shit...

You obviously didn't read my thread... The tranny is still in the car.. it will NOT come out... I just need the car running will I get my 2G tranny rebuilt.
 
It was under my impression that the trans is still in the car

Well crap I knew that. Then I would have done what the OP did. I've had to make this repair before.
Keep in mind what I said about the end covers possibly being different. OP didn't mention if he checked.
 
Well crap I knew that. Then I would have done what the OP did. I've had to make this repair before.
Keep in mind what I said about the end covers possibly being different. OP didn't mention if he checked.

Hey, the end cover fit had the same bolt and flange pattern. Is it possible it could still be different?

I already bolted it on and sealed it, can I still check?
 
Hi all, so I put it altogether and had a small leak so I took it all apart and resealed it. All good now.

Question:

The car has an old clutch, so that could be the problem but... 5th and reverse are a bit tough to get in and out. Is this normal? Maybe some sort of break in period? Should I be worried? I've only put about 100 feet on the car since the rebuild.

Thoughts?
 
How did that clutch work out Artago? I stumbled upon this thread yesterday when I was trying to figure out how to torque the 36mm nuts on. I learned a few things from it....

* you can make a tool w/ an old clutch disk to hold the trans and torque it properly.
* you can use a rag rather than a penny to stuff between the gears

What I ended up doing was using a wadded up blue shop paper towel. This worked out. I don't think it's what the mitsubishi engineers used to tighten the 36mm though. I'm now wondering what the factory service manual says. I bet it requires the use of a special tool.
 
How did that clutch work out Artago? I stumbled upon this thread yesterday when I was trying to figure out how to torque the 36mm nuts on. I learned a few things from it....

* you can make a tool w/ an old clutch disk to hold the trans and torque it properly.
* you can use a rag rather than a penny to stuff between the gears

What I ended up doing was using a wadded up blue shop paper towel. This worked out. I don't think it's what the mitsubishi engineers used to tighten the 36mm though. I'm now wondering what the factory service manual says. I bet it requires the use of a special tool.
It says use a tool. I made one from a clutch disc. Works great.
 
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