Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Coyotekart63]

So today was messing around a bit with the car. I pulled a spark plug out, crank the car over and the car started to backfire....I was like ok??? pulled the exhaust manifold off, car was backfiring....took the spark plug wires, just for giggles, I sawpped 1 and 4 and 2 and 3....thing started right up and idled at 2150rpm...I was like ok, the timing was 180 off...took the distributor out, swapped it around 180, put the plug wires back on correctly and cranked the car over, no start....

started messing with the timing again....distributor got way hot and stopped reading RPMs while cranking the car...let it sit for ten minutes, cranked it, the rpm reading came back...im sooo confused.


literally 2 minutes later now...I just cranked it and no rpm reading while cranking.....

 

[spic21]

dont know what to tell ya bout starting but if your oil smells like gas change it. You were probably pressing gas pass rings because of not starting. ive done this before myself.

 

[krazy4]

im not sure about fuse but why not just see if your getting power and ground to pump first.

Alright, I'll check that out. Thanks!

 

[Coyotekart63]

Just changed the oil in it like 6 attempts ago...I wonder if the ECU is sending too many volts to the distributor and making it get hot and making the crank sensor kick off on it?

 

[spic21]

Just changed the oil in it like 6 attempts ago...I wonder if the ECU is sending too many volts to the distributor and making it get hot and making the crank sensor kick off on it?

not gonna say it isnt but i doubt it. u said you got it to start when moving plug wires around so just dont believe thats the case.

 

[kchaazz]

Make sure the ECU is working as well. To do this, turn the key to the ON position. The boost gauge should instantly move to the 0 position, and the check engine light should come on then shut off in a few seconds- this is an easy way to see if the ECU APPEARS to be working, and if these thing arent happening, the ECU either isnt receiving adequate voltage, or its dead. Also, if you listen closely, you should hear the fuel pump run a few seconds after trying to turn the motor over. Clean the crap out of the battery terminals and be sure theyre tight as well.

 

[Coyotekart63]

Well thats 2 distributors now tho that have basically been cooked. Something is making them get really hot. I have all the correct voltage to it I believe. Pin#6 on the 6in connector changes from 0v to around 11V when cranking and then back to 0V when I stop cranking the engine...

Swapped the plugs around 180 and the thing ran so I was like ok, distributor is in backwards. Swapped it around and nothing....just got hot and stopped working..let it cool and it started working again but still no start.

 

[krazy4]

Make sure the ECU is working as well. To do this, turn the key to the ON position. The boost gauge should instantly move to the 0 position, and the check engine light should come on then shut off in a few seconds- this is an easy way to see if the ECU APPEARS to be working, and if these thing arent happening, the ECU either isnt receiving adequate voltage, or its dead. Also, if you listen closely, you should hear the fuel pump run a few seconds after trying to turn the motor over. Clean the crap out of the battery terminals and be sure theyre tight as well.

Alright, I'll check the ecu. The car turns over, just won't start. Battery terminals look fine.

 

[cmfd]

id say fuel pump is shot. when they sit in crappy gas they rust and and dont work properly. had a crx that sat for 2 years and replaced the fuel pump fired right up

 

[krazy4]

id say fuel pump is shot. when they sit in crappy gas they rust and and dont work properly. had a crx that sat for 2 years and replaced the fuel pump fired right up

That's what I was thinking. Probably rusted out. Thanks for the help man.

 

[Grizbomb1684]

car is a 1992 tsi 6bolt awd
car cranks but no fire, i have replaced the coolant temp sensor with a new one pulled the cas and spun it fuel pump kicks on all injectors work have weak yellow spark at first then no spark at all same thing with another cas , my ecu did have leaky caps but i put a rebuilt known working ecu in it, i pulled coil pack out check the ohms they were with in spec on secondary coils primary coils were reading lil higher then noted in manual, I'm stumped car starts first thing in morning but runs shitty it pops sputters and breaks up over 3k rpms like a 2 step, i have confirmed my cas is not 180 out all my fuses are good i jus don't know where else to look I'm goin crazy with this, car ran amazing till one morning went to hop in it for a ride and would not start.

PS if anyone is in the central jersey area and willing to help me figure this out i will take care of you well- buds, beers, cash, parts, anything jus want my car running again

I got a reading of 1.2 on primary coils suppose to be .77-.95 is that enough variance to call coils dead??

 

[Geier]

Are you sure you have a good battery?

 

[Grizbomb1684]

yup battery has 12.4v its only couple months old

 

[92AWDHX40]

Well low spark could be , ecu, coil pack, i would check out another coil pack.

 

[cantgo2fast]

More news, buzzing coming from the engine bay is from the starter solenoid. Possibly DOA starter? Bad starter relay? Clutch Switch?

So I did a log to see where the clutch switch was and it always said 1 and never changed. I dont know if 1 is on or off and what that correlates to in terms of the pedals actual position.

However, the car did start once heres all the other problems

-Coolant gauge on dash doesnt work, ecu is getting a signal (from log) but the gauge doesnt work anymore.

-Cant get the car to idle at a steady afr. It started up and immediately went to about 16.5. fudged with the mafcomp to try and lower it and once it dipped into the low 15's it shot down into the 10's. moved the mafcomp the other way. Got into the high 12's and then shot right up into the 17's

I was logging closed loop as well. Seems like it was always closed loop until I gave it some gas, this seems right so im very confused at this point,

 

[94allwheeldsm]

Check your maf. Swap it out with a known working one. Also check your TPS sometimes if the plug is a little loose it will do as you stated.

 

[Coyotekart63]

Ok...possibly have narrowed it down....today I went out and checked it over again. I am getting verry little weak spark at times to flat out nothing, so basically, no spark....the #6 pin on the 6-pin connector is getting 0v now. It stays at 0V when cranking...that pin is connected to the mfi/mpi relay...is it the relay thats bad?

 

[NHerron]

Is the buzzing ONLY when you try to crank? Could it be the ole' starter clicking from a dead battery?

The coolant gauge not operating most likely is just the connector is bumped off. That is a 1 wire connector that slips on a flat spade terminal located on thermostat housing. If it is properly connected and still not working, you can test the wiring/sender quite easily by turning key on and grounding the wire terminal to engine block/chassis ground, etc. with a paper clip. This should shoot your gauge up to hot indicating a faulty temperature sender.

 

[Grizbomb1684]

Think we have it narrowed down to being the coil packs we checked resistance on primary coils there reading 1.5 ohms and suppose to be .77-.95

 

[dalesocks]

Proper crank and cam signal?

 

[Grizbomb1684]

Proper crank and cam signal?

Yeah I tried a known good one still doin same thing timing is good aswell

 

[cantgo2fast]

Is the buzzing ONLY when you try to crank? Could it be the ole' starter clicking from a dead battery?

The coolant gauge not operating most likely is just the connector is bumped off. That is a 1 wire connector that slips on a flat spade terminal located on thermostat housing. If it is properly connected and still not working, you can test the wiring/sender quite easily by turning key on and grounding the wire terminal to engine block/chassis ground, etc. with a paper clip. This should shoot your gauge up to hot indicating a faulty temperature sender.

Yes only when I try to crank. The battery is brand new as is the starter. I have a log I could post that will show the battery voltage as I try to crank. It seems to bounce between 10-12.5 so I assume it's ok. and like I said sometimes it will fire right up.

Ill probably get to the coolant sensor later but thanks for the heads up. I need to try and get it to the point where it starts every time then I can go fixing all the other little things

I was hoping someone knew about the clutch switch

 

[yolo23]

I changed the starter now car wont crank I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the factory alarm.

 

[cmfd]

im assuming you double checked all your connections. do lights come on. have you hooked jumper cables up to your old one to double check that the old one was bad. (put in a vice)

 

[yolo23]

Yea lights come on I hear a click but wont crank

I also did.check to make sure.it was.bad