The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support STM Tuned

Just pulled head. Comments on valves please

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

juntjoo

10+ Year Contributor
782
1
Sep 12, 2011
fort myers, Florida
I've never done this and supposedly my valves are bent but this is foreign to me at this point. Can you guys determine anything from these pics? I included some of the pistons too if there is anything to gather from them. Thanks
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
is it supposed to be that dirty on top of the pistons? There is all kinds of debris.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
 
Should I clean up the top of my pistons and check for marks from the valves?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
 
Marks from the valves aren't a big deal. Clean the pistons and look for cracks. If you see nothing beyond cosmetic then rebuild the head and give it another go.
 
Look at the marks on the exhaust valves they are all bent also. You will likely need all new guides and valves. I'd bring each piston to tdc and use compressed air to clean it up a bit and inspect for damage.
 
How can you tell that the intake valves are bent? Is it simply because they are not seated flush or...

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
 
How can you tell that the intake valves are bent? Is it simply because they are not seated flush or...

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

Yes. They also are all at a different angle. They look "bent".
 
Looks like you got off pretty easy. Even with all the valves toasted like this, it could have been much worse. From the looks of it, you'll probably be able to save this head as well as the bottom end, although from the amount of carbon deposited in that thing you might be better off rebuilding, looks to have been burning a bit of oil. Make sure to follow bryanwheat's advice on replacing all the guides and valves either way though and check for cracks in the head around the guide bores.
 
Well shouldn't it just be easiest/cheapest to replace the whole head?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
 
Well shouldn't it just be easiest/cheapest to replace the whole head?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

For you, probably would be both easier and cheaper. If the valve guides are good you could replace just the valves which would be easy and cheap. When valves are bent though it's best to just replace the guides as well.
 
Time for a new head.

At the very least you'll need all new valves, guides, seals, and necessary machine work. This can be quite costly.



I dont totally agree with the guides seals and machine work... I SLAMMED my valves into my pistons (balance belt went out) and i didnt need to replace the guides seals or anything else but the valves..

NOT saying JusMX is wrong.. just saying look before you have to spend money only something you dont have to

that being said.. I opted to replace the guides and stuff JUST BECAUSE the head was already apart...
 
I dont totally agree with the guides seals and machine work... I SLAMMED my valves into my pistons (balance belt went out) and i didnt need to replace the guides seals or anything else but the valves..

NOT saying JusMX is wrong.. just saying look before you have to spend money only something you dont have to

that being said.. I opted to replace the guides and stuff JUST BECAUSE the head was already apart...

Plus it is pretty easy to tell when you've cracked a valve guide.

What is the recommended source for a new 4G63 head? Is remanned typically suggested around here?
 
I will say the EuroExport valve spring compressor is worth every penny. I highly suggest investing in it. Makes component removal SO easy.
 
So I just cleaned off my pistons and am wondering if ya'll think they look fine and I should just go ahead and throw on my new head. I know it's just the top view but the engine only has 100k, so I'm hoping it's young enough to not to have to worry about the pistons. But even if so later on if I need to access them that would just be from below the engine under the oil pan right?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Sent from my SGH-T989 ushing Tapatalk
 
Since you are an NT you should be ok.

To do a quick check of the rings,

1) roll the pistons so all 4 are at the same level, mid stroke

2) take a quart of engine oil, and pour equall amounts on top of all 4 pistons, appox 1.5 inches

3) walk away for several hours, to overnignt

4) all the pistons should have appox same amout of oil in each bore, if one is down way more than the rest, you will have ring issues in that cylinder.
 
You must have gotten lucky. You bent more valves than me, and have less piston dings. Get those valves replaced and motor on.
 
Oops, just read up on piston removal. Big job!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
 
Ah, nice suggestion bogusSVO. I'll try that.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
 
I just realized my new head has no studs. Do I just move my old ones over or do I replace them or would that only be necessary with more powerful DSM's. I doubt I'll be going turbo any time soon. Mine just look a little rusty, but not really, maybe just dirty.

Do you guys use any special tools? I just heard you needed some special stud tool, or can you rig something up with your basic tools?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
 
All you need is 2 nuts and a washer. Thread one nut on the thread, put the washer on and than thread the other nut on. Now tighten the nuts into each other so that they lock. From there you will be able to back the stud out with the inside nut.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top