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is this manifold good?

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Most aftermarket ex. manifolds dont flow any better than the stock manifold. Im not sure if you wanted to but did you just try looking iunto having a bov port welded onto your manifold, save some money. Alot of the cheap manifolds tend to crack.
 
I bought an obx manifold for my old 420a motor and none of the bolt holes to the head lined up. Don't know about the durability. I never got that far before I had to scrap the project.... I wouldn't waste the money.
 
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I bought an obx manifold for my old 420a motor and none of the bolt holes to the head lined up. Don't know about the durability. I never got that far before I had to scrap the project.... I wouldn't waste the money.

Likely because you purchased the incorrect flange type.


As for this manifold, there are perks and disadvantages to going from our stock Log style Manifold to a tubular. You should notice increased spool time, however, and that's certainly a plus. One thing you will want to watch out for are stress points in the design and note that there is and always will be a risk with cracking.

Another plus is that it's an external wastegate setup. People have quite a bit more success with control boost levels using an external wastegate, plus it always looks a lot nicer when you pop the hood.
 
If your looking to spend that kind of money why noot go with a proven one for the same price. The FP race manifold is on sale for around 190 SHIPPED, so my money would lean to that.
 
If your looking to spend that kind of money why noot go with a proven one for the same price. The FP race manifold is on sale for around 190 SHIPPED, so my money would lean to that.
because im looking for a manifold with external w/g port thats is not to expensive and is still mitsu housing.
if you have money to blow for it, then go for it looks like a pretty cool manifold. but theres nothing wrong with the stock one.
i want external w/g thats why.
Most aftermarket ex. manifolds dont flow any better than the stock manifold. Im not sure if you wanted to but did you just try looking iunto having a bov port welded onto your manifold, save some money. Alot of the cheap manifolds tend to crack.

what do you mean "bov port" did you mean wast gate?
 
It will make an excellent paper weight when it cracks due to the lack of thick welding, the use of thin tubing and no reinforcements.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by minimoose
Most aftermarket ex. manifolds dont flow any better than the stock manifold. Im not sure if you wanted to but did you just try looking iunto having a bov port welded onto your manifold, save some money. Alot of the cheap manifolds tend to crack.

what do you mean "bov port" did you mean wast gate?

Yea my bad LOL. Lota places will weld one on and its alot cheaper and yeilds the same results. Only upside to the tubular is looks in my opinion.
 
Likely because you purchased the incorrect flange type.


As for this manifold, there are perks and disadvantages to going from our stock Log style Manifold to a tubular. You should notice increased spool time, however, and that's certainly a plus. One thing you will want to watch out for are stress points in the design and note that there is and always will be a risk with cracking.

Another plus is that it's an external wastegate setup. People have quite a bit more success with control boost levels using an external wastegate, plus it always looks a lot nicer when you pop the hood.

No, he didn't purchase the wrong flange type. OBX has terrible quality control issues and it shows in almost every form and fashion in ALL of their products.

because im looking for a manifold with external w/g port thats is not to expensive and is still mitsu housing.

i want external w/g thats why.


what do you mean "bov port" did you mean wast gate?
Yes, he meant wastegate provision, but stated BOV port for some reason. Probably just a newbie and got the two slightly mixed up.

Go with a turbonetics manifold. Will work just fine and already has an external gate provision. I believe treadstone or similar is basically a knock-off of this piece, but they all work very well. Only downfall, is that it's cast. If you want otherwise, look into DNP, but they are slightly expensive.

FP is having a sale on there manifold i would buy that before some ebay junk!

FP is great, however, he is wanting an external wastegate so this is not an option. Go with the turbonetics/treadstone style for the same effect, with good reliability. Don't have to worry about cracking as you normally would with a cheap tubular manifold. However, a conversion flange from T3 to MHI might be needed.
 
FP is great, however, he is wanting an external wastegate so this is not an option. Go with the turbonetics/treadstone style for the same effect, with good reliability. Don't have to worry about cracking as you normally would with a cheap tubular manifold. However, a conversion flange from T3 to MHI might be needed.


I suggest getting a SBR or a HAFE style manifold with a 38mm provision already built into the manifold. These manifold are cast, the HAFE is cast SS. I currently run one, have been running one for years, no complaints. Its durable, larger runner, large collector. If you look at the runner design, it is actually a huge imporvement over the any stock including the evo3. It runners are more curved and have betting bend radius's to allow for better flow. Bigger than the evo3 manifold already ported, plus cast SS so it wont rust.

I am not running a wastegate on it, i prefer to run it off the o2 housing, so mine is not tapped for a 38mm wastegate.

They are more expensive than the FP manifold, but running an external from any other location (welding on one, running off the o2 housing) is going to cost you much more in the end.

You can find these manifold new, or on the classified adds definitely, probably pick them up for about 200 now.

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http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/332602-hafe-exhuast-manifold.html
 
I agree that the HAFE manifold is nice, but I have to ask what is the big reason you want an external wastegate. I was still using internal on my PTE-5031 and it was making over 440 AWHP. If boost creep is a problem for you then I always thought the best solution was to supply enough fuel to supply the boost. When I had my 16G I just tuned it to be at 24psi, boom no more creep issues.

My current setup is not internal but I am using the FP manifold and then I have the Punishment Racing recirculated O2 housing with the MVS gate on it. It's a nice setup but not super cheap. Much nicer quality than OBX though.
 
My current setup is not internal but I am using the FP manifold and then I have the Punishment Racing recirculated O2 housing with the MVS gate on it. It's a nice setup but not super cheap. Much nicer quality than OBX though.

Not to mention its also warrantied:thumb:. I am running the MAPerformance MVS recirculated version, and couldn't be happier. Only difference is the fact that you can buy the o2 housing without the wastegate from MAP.
 
reason i want to run e/ w/g is because most of the turbos out there that i want to buy are set up for it. it doesn't hurt at all and i know its not a must but its something im considering.
 
because im looking for a manifold with external w/g port thats is not to expensive and is still mitsu housing.

i want external w/g thats why.


what do you mean "bov port" did you mean wast gate?

i had this same thought. but i ended up biting the bullet and buying a DNP tubular manifold with an external wastegate provision... Cost me $559, but money well spent:hellyeah: and it will be a nice center piece to the engine bay for my gorgeous 6152 dual ballberring :) who ever said tubular doesnt yeild more power is pretty much wrong... tubular with longer runners =faster spool up
 
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OBX is garbage honestly take a look at the guides to understand what helps more because it is very usefu information
 
OBX is garbage. There is a reason the quality stuff is expensive.

Besides that, almost any other turbo you are goin want to run wont be Mitsubishi flanged, they'll be T3. So you would be wasting money.
 
Buy the obx and when it cracks, weld it up. When it cracks again, weld it again. Pretty soon you'll have enough welds on it to be comparable to a quality mani:D
 
I had a buddy who had one. The welds were all done with MIG and then went over with a TIG just for the look. Bits of wire inside the manifold would fall into the turbo after it got hot and lunch the turbo. He went through 2 turbo's before figuring it out.
 
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